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Phnom Penh
Entry 14 of 17 | show all | print this entry |
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Well the border crossing into Cambodia was fairly painless. The bus company we were with did all the work for us - we just had to fill out the form and give them our passports, then sit pretty on the bus while they got processed. That was the easy part! Once we got into Phnom Penh we were dropped in a completely different area than we were told we would be and the tuk tuk drivers were charging high prices to take us to any area in the vicinity. We decided to walk to a few places but as usual, it was searing heat and all the places were ages away. Luckily were able to leave our backpacks with the bus company while we went in search of a roof over our heads. I suppose we were so used to being accosted by touts so much previously that we didn't think to bother booking ahead. Anyway, we found a fairly basic place for US$7 a night so went with that and went off to collect our bags. As per usual, the footpaths are for moto's and stalls so we had to constantly walk on the roads. This meant that I couldn't use the wheels on my backpack and had to actually put it on my back (yes, I was horrified too!!). What seemed like an excruciating eternity later, we got back to the guesthouse and I was glad to get the 20 plus kilo's off my back!
We had heard that Phnom Penh wasn't the safest place to be at night so we went out for dinner before it got dark. Went to one of the lonely planet recommended restaurants but it was only ok. Went to an ATM as funds were kinda low and didn't have much local currency other than the value of the Vietnamese Dong we had exchanged at the border. To our surprise, the ATM only dispensed dollars! In the other countries, the dollar was accepted but mostly we found they wanted local currency and the ATM only gave out local currency too. So, it was dark by the time we had finished dinner as the sun sets about 6.30 so there was the decision as to whether we walk back or get a tuk tuk (which aren't recommended after dark either!)
We decided on a tuk tuk each night while we were there just to be on the safe side but to be honest, nobody looked twice at us. The next day we went to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, otherwise known as Security Prison 21. This is where innocent Cambodians were interrogated and tortured by the Khmer Rouge during their hold on Cambodia. It was previously a High School but used for the detention of anyone who the Khmer Rough decided were a threat to their vision. There were photographs of the prisoners as the Khmer Rough liked to document everything. Most of the prisoners looked vacant but some looked genuinely terrified. We saw the cells and the shackles they had to wear and many of the torture apparatus. The prisoners were transported to the "Killing Fields" to be "exterminated" which is located at Cheung Elk a short distance outside of the city.
We went to the Killing Fields in the afternoon which is such a sad area. There is a temple built to honour the people killed here and it contains hundreds of skulls that have been exhumed from mass graves around the site. You can look at the skulls and the see the fractures where they were bludgeoned to death with items such as shovels and hoes. Apparently they didn't like to waste precious bullets. Out of the estimated 17,000 prisoners detained in S21, there are only 12 survivors. Excavation work is still taking place and while the area is peaceful now, with the sound of children playing in the distance, there will always be a dark cloud over this place. The distant roll of thunder while we were was quite apt.
Before the Killing Fields we managed to squeeze in the Royal palace. It was 4 Euro each and definitely not worth it. Maybe it's because we've been to the mother of all palaces in Bangkok but if you're stuck for time here I'd give this one a miss. That night we decided to be brave with our dinner and went to a nearby market. I got fried rice, pork and bacon. It was actually quite nice and only cost a dollar! Well, that was it for Phnom Penh and I won't be sad to say goodbye to the rubbish lined streets which are the worst I've encountered so far in Asia! That said, the people are very nice and with such a sad, recent history it's hard to imagine how they can stay so positive.
Next stop Siem Reap and the wonder that is Angkor Wat. More thumbnails ...
Where I stayed:
Narin 2 Guesthouse
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