So we were back in Bumthang late Sunday night. Next morning Miranda put on her new hand woven kira (traditional Bhutanese dress) and borrowed a matching silk jacket from a lovely girl working in the hotel. We then all went off to the festival at Tamshing monastery. This is like a country fair with religious overtones. Everyone was dressed in their best clothes and gathered to watch the masked dancers and the women doing traditional folk dances, as well as meet up with friends. We had been to this festival last time in Bhutan so we were able to catch up with our old friend Pema Gyelpo, then the monk caretaker of the temple and now promoted to second ritual master. He gave us tea and arranged for us to sit ON CHAIRS in a tent along with a load of monks to watch the dancing.
It was most enjoyable. We popped back to the hotel for lunch and then came back in the afternoon. We were allowed inside the temple and then went back to Pema's room for ara (locally brewed spirits) and he also gave us a bottle of it to take trekking with us. Somehow we still managed to pack!
Next day we had a leisurely start, travelling to the beginning point of our trek. On the way we stopped at Kurjey Lhakhang (temple) where the Queen Grandmother who died recently is due to be cremated next week. Massive preparations were underway including building the most beautiful stupa where her body will be cremated and which will then be destroyed.
Then on to our trek. Our horses had gone ahead and we walked mostly on the flat along the river valley. The weather was perfect and we were followed by lots of children along the way. Phub Dorji our guide was with us, but Phub 2 (our driver) stayed back in the village. We were invited into a village house on the way, and also saw women weaving. We also visited the Swan Temple on the way. Later in the afternoon we reached our camp. We had a lovely modern tent all ready for us. There was a dining tent which doubled as sleeping quarters for the trekking team, and a cooking hut. We were accompanied by 3 horsemen, a cook, assistant cook and about 5 horses and a foal, and of course Phub our guide. Dinner was in the dining tent and was completely fabulous - a three course meal followed by tea and ara!
An early (and relatively sleepless) night was followed by an early start. We had to climb over the top of the pass on the second day which was an ascent of 750m. This was a challenge for both of us, especially at this altitude (over 3000m). Phub was great and carried our daypacks, and let us go at our own pace gently encouraging us. The trail was often up streams and over rocks. It was great fun, except we were a bit worried we might meet a bear! We hardly noticed the scenery as we were working so hard. Eventually we reached the pass, complete with prayer flags and took a rest. Our ponies and team passed us and went on to set up the next camp.
Just before we reached the camp we had to cross a small river with no bridge. Belinda waded through in her barefeet but Miranda opted to be carried across by Phub rather than wade or balance on the mossy log.
Another delicious dinner in the tent and another early night. By this time it was raining and it rained continuosly all night. Our tent was completely waterproof but we surrounded by a sea of mud. In the morning we were brought "bed tea" and hot water to wash in. After breakfast (cornflakes with bombay mix, chilli and hot milk) we set off in the rain.
The trail was totally waterlogged and after half an hour so were we! We were so soaked that it ceased to matter when we waded through a large stream or stepped into the squishy mud. It was all downhill at this point, and very slippy. Phub of course hopped along like a mountain goat while we staggered and slipped along behind. It was great fun!
We then went uphill again to Ugyen Choeling palace which is now a museum. This was a bit of a tough climb but we finally made it. But we could hardly make it up to the fourth floor of the museum. Luckily given tea and biscuits before making our descent.
The rain had picked up again and we were soon soaked yet again. We descended through a ploughed field of clay which all stuck to our boots and trousers, adding to the weight we were carrying. After that the path was made of very slippy and muddy stones and we used every part of our bodies trying not to fall over in the mud. We reached the bottom where there was a stupa and behind it we found our lunch waiting for us!
After lunch we climbed into a Toyota truck and drove along the unpaved road for about 20km. This was a very rough ride but finally made it back to our hotel. Our trek was over, we had met the challenge and now needed a hot bath (sadly unavailable).
That afternoon Phub Gyeltshen took us shopping in Bumthang, and helped me get onto the internet in the busiest internet cafe in the world (it felt like).
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