Along, down, up, across and down again
Trip Start
Sep 22, 2008
1
13
23
Trip End
Jan 23, 2009
Rio Dulce,
Guatemala
Monday, November 10, 2008
The last pod you received was my trip through part of the highlands. However it was the second part that bought some problems and adventure.
After spending a fantastic time with Miriam she left to go back to Antigua, and I was able to find out that bus was to leave the next morning at the bus station, well thats what they told Miriam and me. So I get up at the ungodly hour to catch the bus. I wait and I wait but there is no bus. Oh crap, so I ask a man who laughs at me and says that I am at the wrong place (even when he told me when I arrived that I was at the right place)and the bus has left. this I suppose was not a problem however the ATM machines where not working and I only had a little money. So what to do? I ended up going with my instincts and taking a bus that wold connect me with an other, well I hoped anyway. When I got off the first bus I was standing at a remote intersection and not sure what I should do. Of course I only had a bottle of water and limited money. so I waited, eventually a shuttle came along and took me to another town where I had to change for another shuttle. I really had no idea what or where I was doing here at this stage, and wished i took more interest in learning spanish. I slowly sipped my water so I had enough for a journey to Coban that would take 6 hours. The next shuttle arrived and this was going to take me to Coban. At first I was very happy as I just had enough money however it was when 30 people piled into the shuttle (that would normaly hold only 15 people) and 6 on the roof that the trip of a life time began. I love people but not when they are sitting on your head, lap etc. The journey was spectacular and amazing driving through the highlands, the mist rolling over the mountains the small communities working the land, just the grandeur of the place was really overwhelming on a very narrow and whiny road. I only have pictures in my mind as unfortunately I could not even get my hand in between my legs to get my camera. Anyway I eventually made it to Coban a large country town in the middle of Guatemala, and boy was I happy and hungry. I ate and ate and ate.
The hostel I stayed at for the next two nights was fantastic and I met some fantastic people and I will remember this place as this is when Obama was voted in. Yahoo, thank you the American people.
The next day I decided to pay for a trip to two fantastic places. One the Lanquin caves and the other Semuc Champey. It took two hours to get there but Semuc Champey was just incredible. It is basically 300m of natural limestone bridge, on top of which is a stepped series of pools with water flowing from small streams from the mountains. Underneath the natural bridge the river Cahabon flows and when the photos are uploaded you will be able to see how beautiful the place was. As was the amazing walk back up a 90 degree mountain to the lookout. I still cannot believe I made it to the top.
We then headed to Grutas de Lanquin, these caves were once occupied by the Mayan people and we explored the caves with our guide, however like anything in Guatemala there are no boundaries in terms of safety and we were climbing through some amazing places. I just wished we did the caves first then Semuc because crawling through bat wee and poo was not something I would do everyday. But at least I can say I have crawled through bat poo.
When I arrived back the hostel I was glad for the first time to have a really hot shower.
The next day after getting in contact with Miriam and deciding to go to Livingston I made my way to a port town called Puerto Barrios. At first I thought it might take 6 hours and maybe I could catch the ferry to Livingston and meet Miriam there however it was not to be. Thanks to the most painful day of traveling I can remember since traveling through the Congo in Africa. Not painful in terms of pain but in terms of frustration, anger and pure slowness. I was told one thing then another, I sat a place called El Rancho which would be best described as hell on earth for 1.5 hours. Not even the bus drivers knew when the direct bus to Puerto Barrios was coming. I had one shuttle driver that thought that driving at 40km/ph was a good way to have more customers then he decided to take another route because he wanted to meet an arriving bus from another direction. When that did not work he left the motor idling for about 30 minutes before I had enough and some how convinced him to turn back, give back some of my money so I could catch a bus that would get me to where I was going. Great I again waited for a bus that was full and had to stand for 2 hours, and even then I had 2-3 hours to go before I would reach Barrios. Of course this bus also took an alternative route but by then I just took it in my stride knowing that I would arrive in probably the worst reputed town in Guatemala during darkness. When I eventually arrive I of course had to choose a hotel that was two blocks up from the docks and you know what they say about shipping ports!!! Anyway, the room turned out to be ok and it even had a tv. Just what I needed, to watch mindless crap in spanish to waste a few hours.
The next day I was hoping that Miriam could arrive before the ferry left at 5 but unfortunately she could not leave Antigua until later. So I spent the day in a port town known for death, shooting anything that moves and the worst case of water pollution I think I have ever seen. it was flat, dusty and hot, really something out of a horror movie and even a horror movie is not as scary as this place. But anyway luck is a fortune and I found a cafe on the polluted water that sold cold drinks and great food.
Miriam eventually arrived fairly late and we headed to the same cafe, I think she might have wondered what I had got her into but everything was fine and we looked forward to the next day in Livingston.
I will stop this blog here and start the Livingston blog soon. Photos will be uploaded later as I have spent nearly 4 hours on the internet and I need something to eat. Looks like I will be staying a little longer in Rio Dulce.
