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Kushalnagar (Tibetan settlement)
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We left Bangalore at 11am on a luxury bus (with actual velour seats that reclined) bound for Kushalnagar. Why? Well we read one small paragraph about it in the Lonely Planet describing it as having several Tibetan Refugee Camps. The road was full of the usual potholes and the journey there took about 3 hours.
It looked a very non-descript town really but after checking into a hotel with a huge clean room for the total sum of about £2.50 we went out to explore.
The first stop was a rickshaw to The Golden Temple. Well, that is what we asked for and that is exactly what we got.
  
This whole area started out (and still is to some degree) as a refugee camp for Tibetan people escaping the events in there homeland. Literally hundreds of monks where walking about, busy or not, doing their own thing.
The Buddhist monastery (housing a staggering 5000 monks) and temples that have been built are inspiring to say the least.
The temples we saw were jaw-droppingly amazing. Just look at the photos. We were free to walk about as we pleased. We found the "blue cushions" situated inside each temple. These are for guests. We sat and listened to the monks chant their Mantra's while others played long hornpipes and Conch shell. Huge drums beat hypnotic beats to the chanting. It is a sound and experience we will never forget.
  
Over the next 3 days we went back to visit the Golden Temple and surrounding areas. We ate tasty Tibetan food (similar to Chinese and Asian food in general) served in the near-by restaurants. The waiter we befriended was really helpful in telling us how to say certain things in Tibetan language. We really wanted to speak with a monk but each one we said 'hello' to would shy away. We were not sure if it was because they were forbidden to speak with us or indeed that I was a woman. After about the fifth monk we gave up trying. Then we had a break-through, as we were leaving the temple area, a monk who was seated on a balcony above the walkway we were on called out to us. "Are you English?" Yes, we said. He said, "I would like to talk to you" Hooray we thought and arranged to meet him later.
We learnt that Tashi was born in Tibet and is now 45 years old. He was forcibly conscripted into the Chinese army at the age of 18. As a boy, his family were too poor to send him to school so he herded goats all his childhood life.
He did his National Service of 4 years then he escaped over the border to Nepal and then India where he settled under Tibetan refugee status. Tashi longed to read and write and learnt that by becoming a Buddhist monk he would have access to schooling and thus learn to do so.
This he has done over many years. His English to this day is very good.
We had a great time with Tashi our friendly Lama/Monk. We taught us so much about his life as a Tibetan Buddhist monk and monastery life in general. He was in no way trying to convert us, just answering our questions. In return, I (Caroline) recorded in English some of his Buddhist lessons and Mantras'. That way he could listen to them on his personal stereo and practise the correct pronunciation in English.
Tashi showed us around the monastery and we accessed many areas that no other tourists were ever able to go. We felt very privileged to have stood at the top of the Golden Temple (watching the sunset, on our last day) and indeed of meeting this very friendly man.
 
Along with Tashi, all the people-monks-lamas we met were extremely kind and friendly which has left us with a great warmth for the Tibetan people. This is yet another country to visit on our ever-increasing list!
Latest Comments (4)
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HEAVEN (reply)
Apr 18, 2008 17:53 EST by lageltashi
I have just visited this place with couple of my frens and the we had a tiring tour but once we reached to this place i attained peace people are helpful and freindliness ' A WORLD OF ITS OWN'
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Great photos! (reply)
Mar 31, 2007 08:10 EST by palyul
Thanks for posting this nice story and wonderful photos of our monastery. We're so happy to know you had a chance to visit. Just wanted to suggest that the best time to visit is during our New Year which is calculated according to the lunar calendar. During that time we have many events to observe such as Lama Dances and the hanging of our giant thankgas on the primary school building. Next Lo... show all
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Kushal Nagar history (reply)
Nov 28, 2006 05:24 EST by pkgs
I have visited last week this place with my friends. the details that you explained there is very interesting. We couldnot visit the golden temple top portion's insides. We also enjoy the food of Tibatans
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Kushal Nagar history (reply)
Nov 28, 2006 05:24 EST by pkgs
I have visited last week this place with my friends. the details that you explained there is very interesting. We couldnot visit the golden temple top portion's insides. We also enjoy the food of Tibatans
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20 votes 
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