Beaches of Kerela

  Vakala/Kovallom, India
Thursday, February 16, 2006

Thursday 16th February 2006 Varkala

Time to move onto our next destination of Varkala. Described in the Lonely Planet as "an idyllic beach town with a laid-back feel" As if we needed to feel anymore laid-back than we already did?
We arrived at the train station of Alleppey having been told that "on Thursdays' an extra fast train goes to Varkala" well, guess what? It was cancelled! So we waited for the next one due in 3 hours time. This gave us a great opportunity to par-take in one of our favourite pass times of 'people watching' These local people we watched also had the same game in mind. Having reflective sunglasses we feel that we are being less obvious but Indian people don't appear to worry if their staring should intimidate you, they just carry on regardless. Something one just has to get used to.
Children, especially are intrigued by us. They return a smile and wave and even start saying "hello, what is your name, what is your country? Then once they have those answers......silence! You also get the odd cheeky chappie saying "school pen?" Whoever the traveller was who started giving out pens to children should have every single one of them inserted in their you know where! We are sure that every other traveller who reads this will agree. "Pen? has to be one of the first English words these children ever learn. If we had a pound for every time a child expectantly said "pen?" we could fund our next trip no kidding, giving pens to children is making them expect one from every foreigner they meet. If you have to do it then go to a school and donate a box full. Giving out sweets is another sore point. The parents of these children find it hard enough to find the money to feed their families let alone pay for dental treatment caused by the damage these offending sweets do. So enough of my soap box moment now and on with the chapter!!!!!
  
Varkala with its dramatic cliff-top setting and beautiful sandy beach was our home for the next 7 days! Yes, time just flew by. We stayed in a lovely place called Hill Palace Beach Resort. The word 'resort' is rather liberally used here in India, and refers not to a swanky posh retreat but could refer to a collection of beach huts. We had a very nice big room with all mod cons including hot water, like we need that? Outside on the sea view lawn there were numerous hammocks and swing chairs strung from the coconut trees outside our room balcony. The setting was as described, idyllic and laid-back.

Another attraction were the restaurants that lined the cliff-top, selling a huge selection of multi-cuisine food. Italian, English, Thai, Chinese and traditional Indian food was on offer. It made a welcome change despite the fact that we have really enjoyed the fantastic Indian food we have experienced so far. We are also pleased to announce that we are still "farting with confidence too!!!"

Another reason for staying so long in Varkala was Martin's fault. He discovered a really good Indian massage man who used a combination of Indian, Thai and Osteopathic methods. He went for several sessions over our weeks stay. Martin did experience a traditional Indian "Ayurvedic" massage (in Allepey) which everyone rants on about here but he must have gone to a crap one as his description of it was "it was as invigorating as applying sun cream to myself" We have since chatted to other fellow travellers who have had a totally different experience to that of Martin's so who knows? One even went as far to say that he felt like he had been beaten up! If only thought Martin!
Going to the chemist in India is great too. You can buy any English perscription-only drug over the counter, no questions asked and for pennies too.
  
We met a great family (living next door to us at Hill Palace) from Hastings Sussex who are in India for 7 weeks. Hannah, Patrick and their 2 and a half year old daughter Maiya.
Our last day in Varkala, we spent altogether lounging by a posh hotel swimming pool eating snacks and sipping ice cold drinks. We paid to use it of course! The Arabian sea waves are just too rough to be able to swim. Your time is spent on guard, dodging huge waves and avoiding the fatal rip currents of which several strong swimmers get swept away each year!
Little did we know that when we all said our good byes when we left Varkala that we would be stalking each other for days to come!!


Wednesday 22nd February 2006 Kovallom

We jumped on the train and headed further south to Kovallom. This was a rather no-discript beach town full of last minute "Expedia" package tourists. This in turn attracts what they call "hawkers and gawkers" Groups of Indian blokes wondering up and down the beach catching a glimpse of white female flesh in their scantily clad bikinis. And hawkers selling sarongs, fresh fruit salads, cashew nuts, ice creams, drinks etc.
Martin and I hired sun beds and umbrella and played an amusing game of wearing the trusty reflective sunglasses and pretending to be asleep when the such hawkers came along. I found it really difficult not to smile and laugh. Martin was much better but there again sleeping is one of Martin's favourite pass times!!
We lasted 2 nights here in this tourist hotspot in a hot sticky 35+ degrees climate which unlike Varkala lacked the sea breeze and laid-back feel.