Voyage: New Chaplino, Russia

  New Chaplino, Russia
Tuesday, July 22, 2008

"Living Off The Land
In the Russian community of New Chaplino you will witness how the Russian government and culture have impacted the lives of the Native groups. All of these communities rely upon the sea to survive, hunting whale, walrus and seal. You will be deeply affected by meeting and observing these families and you will come to see how the various aspects of their lives are interconnected. The politics of the past, present and future may influence lives of the Native Yupik and Chultchi of Russia and Alaska more than any other people. Not only did the Ice Curtain, as it is called in his region, cast hatred and suspicion upon the two shores, it literally tore families apart. Through it all, similarities  in the Natives' past, beliefs and culture continue to survive and may be
seen in their dance, their art, their practices and their hunt.
 
The Harsh and Changing Environment
At first, you will be astonished that humans can live in this inhospitable place. Winds are so strong that no trees could stay rooted and the weather is so cold that the dead cannot be buried until summer. Then you learn that their way of life is endangered
by the slowly retreating ice pack. These people rely the ice to live. With the ice come the whales, seals, walrus, and polar bears they hunt and harvest. The ice is used for transportation, and the permafrost land used to preserve and protect their food between hunting seasons. Learning about life in the Bering Sea teaches most of us a few lessons about how complicated our lives have become even with the abundance we enjoy. Although life may look like it is hard and unforgiving, these people find joy in the simplest things, are happy and enjoy giving the guests of the Spirit of Oceanus a little glimpse into their lifestyle. "

To New Chaplino: waiting to disembark

Another unusual adventure awaits us; we have no idea what to expect either from the trip to New Chaplino or what will occur when we arrive. Our passports have been checked by the authorities and we are ready to rock 'n roll.

In the bus

Little did we know just how much rockin' and rollin' we were going to do in these busses. The couple behind Jackie - Ben & Lila Dwoskin - are from Marina Del Rey; after we returned to the area we shared a lovely dinner with them. We are looking forward to seeing them again in October '09.

Enroute to New Chaplino

The drive to NC introduced us to the small world of the tundra. Tundra is where the growth is hindered by low temperatures and short growing seasons. All of the plants are adapted to sweeping winds and disturbances of the soil. Plants are short and group together to resist the cold temperatures and are protected by the snow during the winter. They can carry out photosynthesis at low temperatures and low light intensities. The growing seasons are short and most plants reproduce by budding and division rather than sexually by flowering. Everyone had fun photogrraphing the small plants and shrubs.

Tundra: a small world of its own

Tundra: a small world of its own

Enroute to New Chaplino

We bounced along for a couple of hours, stopping to explore the tundra and the abandoned buildings.

Enroute to New Chaplino

Arriving in NC we were introduced to a whale/seal fisherman, a reindeer herder,

Enroute to New Chaplino

New Chaplino whaler

Jak and a Yupik Eskimo

and Jackie went for a sled dog ride.

Jak goes for a spin!

New Chaplino new homes provided by Canada

The modern homes that the Yupiks live in were built by donations of labor and materials from Canada.

New Chaplino's music and dance

We were again treated to a wonderful presentation of local music, and dancing, and this time gymnastics.

New Chaplino's Eskimo gymnastics

New Chaplino's music and dance

Jackie never misses an opportuntiy to join in the dancing!

Provideniya Museum

During our return to the ship we stopped at the museum and the local cemetery.

Provideniya Cemetery