Goodbye freedom to wear what I like
Trip Start
Jan 08, 2005
1
43
135
Trip End
Ongoing
Tabriz,
Iran
Monday, September 5, 2005
We found the dolmesh - or rather they found us and we were soon on our way! The scenery was again wonderful. One last look at the cloud covered Mt Ararat (forgot to mention that this is where they reckon Noah's Ark landed).
I was quite excited about going to Iran. Another totally new country and although most think it's an out of the way place and not too well travelled, I knew we would meet quite a few other travellers on our way. The strict religous rules would be interesting and of course I was looking forward to the food!
We had been warned about the money changers that would harass us at both ends of the borders. Teppei had told us the round about exchange rate so we were ready. We hadn't even fully gotten off the dolmesh when the first guy was on our case. He was offering 6000 rials to the dollar. We laughed and walked off. Through the gates and stamped out of Turkey. In no-man's-land I struggled to tie the scarf on my head. It wasn't easy....
I looked a picture - aqua blue manteau and to match an aqua blue scarf with pink flowers that my lovely friend Annie had given me and maroon trousers!!
We were approached by a few more money changers but fought them off!
As we got closer to the border gate there was a crowd of people there. Mostly women and all wearing chadors!!! I already felt slightly out of place and they couldn't stop staring!
We breezed through the gates and on to the stamping office. They asked if we were together, stamped both passports, shook David's hand, ignored me and sent us through to the security check. The woman there looked at our passports, welcomed us to Iran and sent us on our merry way! We couldn't believe how easy it had been. I thought they would have had a look through our bags or screened them or something - but nada! Brilliant.
We changed our money at the bank and then needed to get to Maku to get a bus on to Tabriz. The scammers tried telling us it would cost 60,000 rials to get a cab the 14km from Bazargan to Maku. Ha!!! Clowns! We finally found an honest guy who would get us there for IR10,000. Bargin. Just over $1US.
We sped off in an old shitter Paykan (Hillman Hunter). As we were dodging other traffic and screaming along straddling lanes I wondered which way would end it. Inhalation of the noxious petrol fumes inside the car or having a head-on with the crazy drivers in the other lanes. I obviously decided on being gassed to death. The only way of keeping this guy on the right side of the road was the medium strip that appeared in Maku town. We knew there was a bus at about 13.30 that was supposedly the last for the day. We didn't want to be stuck in Maku for the night so were quite thankful of the formula 1 style taxi driver, even if we had given birth along the way.
The taxi drivers outside the bus station tried telling us the buses to Tabriz were all full and that we would have to take a taxi. 4-5 hours in a taxi - I don't think so! My aqua blue manteau might look new but we weren't swept in on the last dust storm!! We ignored them and went into the bus station. A few minutes and IR21,000 later we were on the bus to Tabriz.
I didn't know what to expect from Iran. You can read books and look at pictures but nothing is real until you've experienced it for yourself, so I had an open mind.
We arrived, got a taxi into town, found our hotel and hit the streets. I was really struggling with the scarf. It just kept sliding off. We were the focal point. People were literally falling over themselves staring at us. It was quite unsettling. I really stood out here. All the women were wearing dark colours and 90% were wearing the chador (all body encompasing black sheet held together with the teeth or hands). The town was a little like a middle eastern place with loads of people and unbelieveable traffic. It was crazy. Like Vietnam but with cars AND motorbikes. Heartstopping stuff crossing the road!
We went into the bazar. Very different from Istanbul. It sold all normal stuff for everyday life. No touristy junk here! Genuine, bonafide household items, clothes, jewellery etc. It was quite refreshing not to see any junky trinkets or be dragged into any shops. People continued to stare, chins on the floor. Some even ventued a shy 'hello'. It was getting a bit too squashy though and people were turing around and coming back for seconds so we left and walked the streets a bit. There were some really tasteful fluro yellow and pink plastic palm trees in a park. Different. Dinner was pretty dull but we had seen a cake shop so went over to get some dessert. We got some icecreams but when we went over to pay the old guy just waved us out of the shop. Iranian hospitality or disgusted by non-believers? I decided I'd be flattered.
We went to have a look at the Blue Mosque but it was closed. It's supposed to be fabulous inside. It was almost completely destroyed in an earthquake hundreds of years ago and reconstruction only began in the 1950's (and continues today).
We saw a couple of other tourists but didn't stop to talk. David is keeping an infidel count as we go. A few locals said hello and asked where we were from. Also a little boy of 13 talked to us as we were walking down the street. Impressive for a 13yr old. Although he was having private lessons.
First day in Iran. I haven't got a feel for anything yet really, but can see that the scarf is going to prove difficult! It's pretty hot too so being restricted with the manteau as well is not comfortable but that's the way it is. At least I can choose my colours!!! The people have seemed curious, astounded that we exist and friendly so what will the rest of the country hold?
