Views along the Southern Ocean

Trip Start Mar 14, 2006
Trip End Mar 15, 2007

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Esperance Backpacker

Flag of Australia  ,
Thursday, November 23, 2006

I carried on my exploration along the South Coast driving to Esperance with Erica, a gal from Sweden. 

We took a short trip back to the Gap and Natural Bridge then went on to Bremer Bay.  An online article refers to it as a "Sleepy little village which has a reputation as an ideal fishing retreat. It is located 496 km south east of Perth and 183 km east of Albany and is a quiet little village which, in a very minor way, is becoming a holiday resort and fisherman's retreat. Its peerless location on some of the most beautiful coastline in Australia, and its isolation from the more developed seaside resorts, has made it one of those places which people speak about in whispers hoping that the hordes never get to find out about the attractions of this tiny settlement. However it is estimated that the permanent population of about 100 people can increase to up to 3000 in the peak season."  It has lovely deep blue and white sand that went on forever

We got a bit lost looking for a place to have lunch but eventually found Peppi's Café in a place called Wellstead.  The first European settler into the area was John Wellstead who arrived in the 1850s and built the two storey stone homestead which still stands near Tooleburrup Hill about 7 km south of Bremer Bay. It is still owned by members of the family and is not open for inspection.  The township came into existence with the establishment of telegraph station in 1876. The first operator was Mary Wellstead who was probably the first female telegraphist in the country.  We could have gone through museum but didn't.

As we carried on driving, we went through a large bush fire area just about 40 k outside of Esperance.  On arrival, we stayed at a place called the Esperance Backpackers which had been recommended to us; however, it was very noisy (train, squeaky doors, fan whenever anyone went to the toilet or shower and stayed on for about 5 minutes afterwards.  There was also some kind of compressor which came on from time to time.   The manager, Ann, recommended a motor hotel and pub for dinner but that one was unbearably scruffy and only filled with loud, smoking male bettors.  I wound up at "Ollie's", which at least served a decent meal (I had a cheeseburger) and a beer (XXXX Gold)
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