Ely Hotels
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Lovely Ely Cathedral
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Simon and I headed off to lovely Ely cathedral. The note on the front of the brochure says "You are not here to verify, inform curiosity or carry report, You are here to kneel, where prayer has been valid: T. S. Eliot." Good summing up of this amazing cathedral. The noise of the day and tours stops once an hour, I think, for public prayer - just to remind us why we are here. How peaceful a place this is!
Etheldreda, a Saxon Princess from East Anglia, founded the original monastery in 673. For centuries her shrine attracted pilgrims who came to offer gifts and seek help or guidance. The shrine itself was destroyed by the Danes in 870 and re-founded as a Benedictine community in 970. Work on the present building commenced in the early 1080s under Abbot Simeon. It became a Cathedral in 1109. The monastery was closed at the reformation in 1539 but it has continued as a cathedral to present day. During the reformation the cathedral was heavily damaged and the shrine to Etheldreda destroyed; however, there is a new sculpture, depicting Etheldreda in the chapel at the east end of the cathedral.
The North and South Transepts form the oldest part of the Cathedral still standing and date from around 1090. The ceiling also has 15th century hammer-beam roofs with flying angels (again, I liked the ones at Upwell better). The Lady Chapel, the largest of its kind in England, is dedicated to Mary, the mother of Jesus. Completed in 1349 it was once richly adorned with statues of saints, bright paintwork and stained glass. However, in 1541, soon after the dissolution of the monastery, windows were mashed and sculptures removed or defaced. You can still see headless figures in the alcoves and the arks of the chisels and hammers on the walls. The Octagon is the glory of Ely. In 1322 disaster struck as the Norman central tower collapsed. The sacrist of the Monastery created a major engineering feat, a structure of timber, glass and lead standing on 8 massive stone pillars. It is really quite amazing and who ever knows what would happen if the timber were to develop rot or something. It is one of the most beautiful things I have seen.
The Nave area was built in Norman times as noted by the thick heavy round arches and pillars and remains of medieval decoration. The Choir area was rebuilt in the 14th century after the central tower fell. There is one place, apparently, where one can see that the pillar is Norman and yet the central tower and the choir on either side of it are from the 14th century. Tucked away in a corner is a marble vault which I understand contains the remains of, I believe, the first 7 or so great men of the early church starting from the 900s (The full inscription above their bones in Ely Cathedral reads, "Sub conduntur ossa VII virorium de Eliensibus optime meritorum, ad Ecceles Cathedralum solemniter translata MCLIV; Postea in boreali partiete nuperi chori inclusa; Tandem hoc in scello capulae quaequa suae reddita Prid. Cal. Aug MDCCLXXI Requiesiant!" The names of the seven men are Wlstanus, Asmundus, Alwinus, Aelfgarus, Ednothus, Athelstanus and Brithnothus). Now that is history!
There is also a Victorian labyrinth and a huge baptismal font. I offered prayers for friends of mine and their families going through difficulties at this time. The brochure which conducted us 'round the Cathedral also reminds us of a prayer of St. Augustine "I am seeking. I am hesitant and uncertain, but will you, O God, watch over each step of mine and guide me in your way. Amen." We had a brief lunch in the Refectory Café then walked out the Prior's Door (with famous Norman carvings dates from around 1135) around the exterior of the Cathedral where there are many Monastic Buildings or the remains of them (from the 600s) still present. Some have sort of been turned inside out so what were inner walls of the buildings in the Medieval period are now the exterior walls of the present buildings. Very interesting. It is like walking through ages and ages of faithful (and some powerful) people. Breathing rarified air.
Simon dropped me off at the train station and I traveled to Norwich by train. I got there in rush hour and it was pretty awful. Quite impossible to move at all. Traffic more than bumper to bumper. Managed to get totally lost getting into and out of Norwich and then getting to the small B & B where I stayed in Hellesdon (a suburb of Norwich and I am told not a very good one). The parking lot there was so incredibly tiny and they somehow though we could get 3 cars I there. I don't think so. The husband moved his out finally. Walked out to one place for dinner only to find they weren't serving that night so I had to walk miles to the next pub (Brewers Fayre Oaks) which was quite up market and cost a bundle. Because I'd walked so far I slept like a log!
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