May Day, Kathakali, and Keralan Murals

  Cochin, India
Tuesday, May 1, 2007

Cochin Ferry

May Day meant that many of the stores were closed in Fort Cochin, Kerala, a democratic state in India with an elected communist government. As one of the "seams of the seasons," May Day was marked by street rallies and relaxing workers. On this day, I took a ferry from Ernakulum to Fort Cochin in the northern reaches of the Kerala backwaters.

Cochin Beach

In America, the word freedom and democracy do not seem to mix with the word communism, perhaps because communism has been linked to authoritarian states such as the U.S.S.R. Obviously communism forced upon people is no better than any other ism forced upon people.

The real issue is not the ism but the freedom.

What is freedom if not the ability to have a representative diversity of political parties vying for your vote?

What is freedom if not the ability for the people to choose directly how resources are allocated?

Chinese Fishing Net

For this one quick day, I walked around Fort Cochin, the old part of town with its synagogue and cathedrals and Chinese fishing nets and fish frying stalls. First, I visited the Mattancherry Palace to see the Keralan fresco-secco murals of the Ramayana and stories of Krishna. Full of color and detail, the friezes capture the myths and battles of Indian legend.

Kathakali, part I: Bhima

In the evening, I attended a Kathakali performance, another Keralan art specialty. Prior to the performance, the artists apply their costume make up on stage. While relaxing Keralan music played and candles adorned the stage, I relaxed as they prepared, slowly, adding mineral stone pigments in coconut oil to their faces--reds, greens, yellows, whites, and blacks.

Tonight's story was the killing of the demon Baka from the Mahabharata. The demon Baka forced the people of Ekachakra in West Bengal to prepare him large quantities of food, day after day. Whoever brought him food was also killed and consumed. The star of the show was Bhima, who brought the cartload of food, prepared by the village Brahmin:

Kathakali, part II: Baka

"Here the cartload is all ready, loaded with food. Oh great hero, climb into the driving seat, and hurry into the deep, dark forest. The wind will lead you to Baka with the stench of corpses."

The three performers used mudras and facial expressions to convey the dialogue, studying for three years to learn the intricacies of the art so that their eyebrows raised at the proper moment, along with the fingers in the correct position. Behind them, a singer narrated at key moments, backed by a drummer and a drone.

Bhima reached Baka's cave with the food cart:

Kathakali, part III: Bhima Kills Baka

"Don't imagine I'm one of the gentle folk you have plundered and killed in the past. I am Bhima, the invincible hero. I will kill you with one blow, as I killed the powerful Hidimba."

They faught as the drumming reached a climax; Bhima killed Baka. The Kathakali performance was complete and the villagers were free from the clutches of the demon Baka, the metaphor for a forced ism, if you will. Happy May Day, you commie.