India Nature: Velavadar Black Buck National Park

  Bhavnagar, Gujarat, India
Tuesday, February 13, 2007

On the coastal plains of Bhal in Eastern Gujarat State, the Black Buck (Antelope cervicapra rajputanae) roam the tawny and burnt umber grasslands punctuated by acacia trees. Soaring, gliding, and hovering overhead, Pallid Harriers, Black-shouldered Kites, and Common Kestrels hunted in the heat of the day as I walked through Velavadar Black Buck National Park.

Velavadar Black Buck National Park

Other animals seemed unaware that the park was solely named for the bucks. Indian Wolves, Blue Bulls, and a wide variety of other species lived here too, despite the small size of the protected area. Sixteen hundred bucks also lived in this small park of 7,000 acres, down from an estimate of 8,000 bucks during the time when the Maharajas kept the lands as hunting grounds.

Black Bucks at Velavadar

Black Bucks are small antelopes, symbols seen kneeling beside the Jain dharma wheel, on Indus Valley seals, and of Vedic gods. The males bear large, straight spiraling horns, colored in striking black and white cryptic patterns that created the impression of a much smaller meal for a predator. The females are much smaller and brown, blending with the predominant grasses.

For two days, I stayed at the park, sleeping in the dormitory. A group of three from Mumbai also stayed at the relatively unvisited park. They were on the last leg of their two-week trip to Gujarat's natural areas and were excited to see the bucks.

Common Stonechat on Acacia Branch

For most of the first day, I walked the trails of the park. Along the way, I observed dozens of species of birds--Black-crowned Sparrow Larks, Common Stonechats, Greater Short-toed Larks, Bay-backed Shrikes, Rufous-tailed Larks, Grey Francolin, Indian Silverbill, and Crested Larks among others. Larks enjoy grasslands and were the predominant birds. Given the dense grasses, their small size, and their subtle defining characteristics, identification of these species can be extremely challenging, yet rewarding in the end.

Two Males Battling

My plan was to observe the Black Bucks for most of the day and to learn their behavior, as best as one can in a snapshot. To do this, I remained very still for most of the time. When walking, I walked slowly, with my mind clear, and deliberately, without drawing attention or appearing to be interested in the bucks. In this way, I was able to get very close to the small and wary animals without using a vehicle or a blind.

I stayed near a watering hole. After about an hour, they came to drink. I watched them come, one by one to the watering hole as part of a herd of twenty bucks, both males and females.

Herd of Black Buck

Another larger herd passed to the north, with two of the larger males engaged in territorial battles. Their sound of their large horns crashing together reverberated through the plain.

Traditionally, their predators would include many of the big cats such as panthers, but here, the main predator was the Indian Wolf, an endangered species with only 2,000 to 3,000 remaining. About seven wolves still lived in the park, according to the park manager, and their principal diet was the Black Buck.

Male Black Buck

"National Geographic was just here...eighteen days. They looked for wolves...never saw them. Six forty-five...morning...you might see them," the stern park manager said.

Sunrise was about 7:15, with dawn breaking at about 6:30. I awoke in the morning at 6:15 and walked outside, wondering where the wolves might be. To begin, I adjusted my eyes and other senses to the dark and quiet environment. At 6:45, after sitting for a half hour, I began walking slowly, looking for the wolves in the dim light.

There they were. Two tawny wolves, an awesome spectacle of wildness, moving quickly from the grassland into the shrubland, about 30 feet away from me. Ten seconds later, they were under cover, retired from a night of hunting.

The sun rose.

Sunrise at Velavadar

I ate breakfast and talked with the park manager, who was extremely happy that I followed his advice and saw wolves. I wouldn't have done it any other way. Learning the land takes an extremely long time, so if you get advice from a local manager with experience, its wise to follow it.

As I was leaving, he took my hand then touched his heart, as Indians do when they feel connected. Under his serious demeanor, he had a heart of gold.