The Big Kora, part II: Wisdom
Trip Start
Mar 21, 2005
1
55
354
Trip End
Ongoing
Yading Nature Reserve,
China
Tuesday, November 8, 2005
Soon, we were much lower, relaxing behind warm rocks in cattle fields, bathing in the warm, high altitude sun amidst blue skies. I fell asleep for a nap, comfortable.
After our naps, we stopped at Wisdom's Stupa, located in a small cave amidst prayer flags and mani stones under the 6,000 meter mountain called Wisdom
01 Wisdom Cave
. We traversed several scree slopes at the base of the mountain as the sun hung low across the next ridge, sending beams of light into the valley far below. We climbed, sheer cliffs dropping thousands of feet to our left side. As Dusk hid the sun from view, several Blue Sheep scampered away as we approached. On three sides, cliffs rose around us, creating a natural amphitheatre with several mountain ranges as a backdrop behind us. The scene was set, and we had found camp three.
As Venus set, I boiled water for our Chinese noodle dinner. The stove was malfunctioning, however, so I took out my "Optimist Repair Kit" (yes that's its name). Soon the stove was running again, despite not having an easy time burning dirty Chinese fuel at 14,500 feet. We ate yak and rice for our second course.
In the morning, Dawn barely broke through a gray bank of rolling high clouds: perhaps a storm was brewing. We contemplated our options if a snowstorm hit at this altitude and felt confident that we'd be fine.
On our way, I looked down and spotted a footprint, not an old footprint like the ones we'd been seeing, but a fresh footprint. A few minutes later, an old Tibetan man approached us, He was with a group of fifty pilgrims, camped elsewhere; they were also circumambulating the mountains.
"Come join us," said Lateh.
02 Camp Three
We followed him, through brush and thickets, down into the very valley that the sun was sending beams of light the day before. We wondered why we were descending so far, what seemed too far, but the thought of joining a large group of villagers in their journey was compelling.
We reached the pilgrims, who greeted us with curious stares and warmly, in time for lunch: tsampa, yak cheese, pork fat, yak butter tea, our dried fruits. We ate and saved some cheese for later, just in case. The pilgrims were of all ages and brought their horses with them. Women were dressed in colorful clothing, adorned with beads and jewelry.
As we continued on the journey, they told us why they were completing the circuit:
"We are on this pilgrimage to ask for a bountiful coming year."
This was also the Year of the Bird, a particularly good year for a pilgrimage of these mountains, Lateh said.
Lateh, it seemed, was one of the village leaders
03 View from Camp Three
. He had followed our tracks this morning, as he thought we were lost. Instead, he sent us miles out of our way and thousands of feet below the kora trail: the pilgrims were not continuing around the mountains as we thought but instead were heading down the valley to their village. Trickster energy was at work and doing a good job. The only way back was up. Lateh, the Trickster, the Coyote, showed us the path to the kora and continued down the valley with his villagers, leaving us alone. Little did we know that this diversion would take us 23 hours of hiking out of our way.
At this point, we were Off The Map. The topographic map I had was for the small kora, so did not include this area. I used the lay of the land and a compass to navigate at this point. Thoughts of my last visit to Yading popped into my mind: was I just not supposed to encircle these mountains? I felt unworthy, like Wayne and Garth.
Soon, the trail Lateh showed us disappeared into dozens of small cattle and wildlife trails meandering through thick puckerbrush. On all fours or scampering around steep slopes, we slowly made our way up the northwestern slope of the valley
04 Yading Rhododendrons
. Several hours later, we were in the middle of an Ancient Forest of fir, spruce, and oak. The oak was draped in hanging lichens that gracefully flowed in a soft breeze. Five exhausting hours later, Dusk was hiding the sun and we finally found a campsite. None of the ground was level, so we settled for the lesser of slopes in the area; still, the slow, everpresent work of gravity sent me down to the bottom of the tent several times at night.
That night we contemplated our day and rested our weary bodies next to a small fire. We had no regrets, despite being detoured, as our happy experiences with the pilgrims remained fresh in our minds. I cooked some rice and yak and a rice, mushroom, garlic, and lentil dish for tomorrow's lunch, as we'd have a long day, it seemed. Our bellies full, we played cards, a Chinese game called "Landlord." We talked about Wisdom and the Trickster energy that surrounded us.
The Bodhissatva that ruled these realms was Yangmaiyong, who carries the Book of Knowledge and the Sword of Discriminating Wisdom, tipped with flames. This sword cuts away delusion, aversion, and longing in the search for the true nature of reality
05 Two Women Pilgrims with Yangmaiyong
. The Sword of Discriminating Wisdom reminds us that knowledge may be useful, but book knowledge alone is a futile path in the search for ultimate spiritual truths. Another form of Yangmaiyong is sixteen years old, showing that wisdom, contrary to almost-universal opinion, does not necessarily come with age.We awoke, wondering what Wisdom had in store for us, and headed up, hoping we would find a pass, despite not being able to see through the thick forests. A pass emerged before us, however, and we happily entered another valley. We ate crackers as we had no more ceremonial Snickers. The next pass was still above us, heading back north towards Wisdom. Finally, we felt on-track, although still Off The Map.
Snow greeted us once again at the fifth pass, as we had climbed back over 15,000 feet. The realm of the Ancient Forests was well below us. We slid and sledded down the slopes to Ice Lake, where we filled our water bottles. Before us were The Cliffs, which dropped into the next hanging valley. At the base of The Cliffs was a large lake. We tried to descend The Cliffs, but were foiled at every turn. As a last resort, we found a Mountain Goat trail and followed it along the edge of The Cliffs. Eventually, we reached the valley and rejoined the kora trail amidst a slate landform. I was grateful to see the first cairn heading towards the next pass, at 15,400 feet. We were still Off the Map, however.
In the next valley, we reached the Boulder Field, and the cairns stopped as though the cairn builder did not want to guide us any more. We weaved our way through the boulders, keeping our eyes on the big mountains ahead; the Boulder Field seemed to be another hurdle, another diversion
06 Pilgrims Leave for Home
.In the dark, we crossed the seventh pass. Finally we were On the Map and our next campsite was visible under the stars--Wisdom Lake. Wisdom and Compassion and other mountains surrounded Wisdom Lake, and we descended with our headlamps to the dark and cold scene below. The steep trail was covered in snow and ice and required side stepping, digging our boot edges into the slopes, and careful foot placement.
After 14 hours of hiking, four passes, and five valleys, we finally pitched the tent and ate fervently next to the lake as coldness gathered.
Dawn rose to a frigid two degrees Fahrenheit. The icy scene before us was warming, however, as we were surrounded by mountains reflecting in Wisdom Lake.
Behind us were the many lessons of Wisdom and the Trickster energy. At the eighth pass, I left my prayer flag among the other prayer flags and items people had left. At places like these, people on pilgrimage leave items of importance to them: prayer flags, knives, hats, umbrellas, and other knickknack. These items are symbolic of the rebirth and change that happens to all of us in our lives as we embark on pilgrimages and in daily life: we leave the old behind and bring on the new.
We had now solidly entered the realm of Compassion, which stood high before us.
