Churning Butter with Gazhong

Trip Start Mar 21, 2005

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Trip End Ongoing

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Flag of China Yongdui Pastures, China
Wednesday, October 12, 2005

After several days in the high mountains of Baimaxueshan Nature Reserve, Jonathan, Xiao Lin, Gomba, and I visited the nomads in the lower pastures of Yongdui. After their migration, they were now three thousand feet lower in elevation and the pastures were still green and the air with a crisp warmth. Soon they would return another 1,000 feet lower to their village, their home for the winter.

One of the nomads I met up near Silence Lake was Gazhong. We met him in a small tented structure where the sun filtered through the various nooks and crannies. His big toothy grin and facial hair that radiated from his jaw line like the sun made us feel welcome.

Together, we drank yak butter tea along with Ahbu and some other nomads: "I am sorry that I missed you for the migration several weeks ago

Ahbu Smiling

. My cows fled back to here so I had to chase after them."

Ahbu, a younger nomad explained his dislike for nomadic life: "It's difficult and there's no time for rest."

As we listened, Gomba, whose brothers and sisters are nomads, whispered me his vision: "with education, Tibetan villagers can apply scientific methods to herding and the animals. That will make their lives less difficult and will provide more for the village. At the same time, they will not lose their traditional lifestyle."

Meanwhile, young and shy Drolma peered in from the sunlit outside corner of the tent.

For a while, we filmed them herding cattle, chopping wood, drinking tea, making cheese, and churning butter. Gazhong taught me the churning butter song, which is a counting song. After 1,400 churns, the butter is ready. If you're going to eat lots of butter, this is a good way to burn the calories before eating.

Our visit was short; we said "goodbye," and headed on our way to Kawa Karpo.