Iron Legs Zhao, the Abacus, and Cruel Torture
Trip Start
Mar 21, 2005
1
24
354
Trip End
Ongoing
Pingyao,
China
Monday, July 11, 2005
Pingyao City, whose walls have been built and rebuilt for thousands of years, is a living reminder of these ancient times within the current sea of "The Big Same." Inside the wall, which was last reconstructed in the 1300s during the Ming dynasty, is a town virtually preserved as it was during the Ming and Qing dynasties. During this time, commerce and banking began to grow and thrive in Pingyao, centrally situated between Beijing, Xi'an, Shanghai, and other trading cities. The government of Pingyao, during this time was strong and the town was the county capital.
I settled into an old guesthouse in the heart of the town and explored within its walls for two days. Here are over twenty museums depicting life during the Ming and Qing dynasties. The main streets that crisscross the town are bustling with residents and Chinese tourists. Modest buildings are composed of light brown bricks and the town has a dusty, earthen feel. The side streets meander in earthen tranquility the next turn may reveal playing children, talking elders, card-playing groups, or a horse and cart.
01 The Ancient City Wall
After a day of hiking around the wall, biking throughout the town, and relaxing in the comfortable guesthouse, I began my second day at the Confucius Temple, the heart of Chinese philosophy. Confucius embodies the walled city with principles of government and living:
"Let the ruler be ruler, the minister minister, the father father, and the son son."
"The man of jen is one who, desiring to sustain himself, sustains others, and desiring to develop himself, develops others. To be able from one's own self to draw a parallel for the treatment of others; that may be called the way to practice jen."
Jen may be called "perfect virtue" and guided the Confucian way of living and governing.
The ancient government buildings also express these Confucian ideals, sometimes in a harsh manner, however. These buildings house the prisons; the Department of Justice; the Tax Collecting Department; the Room of Rites; the Counsel House; the Weapon, Money, and Grain Stores; the Civil Court; the Military Room; and Torture Rooms. Cruel and Unusual punishment was granted. One particularly vicious method of execution involved cutting off the legs, then the arms, then, while strangling the accused, inserting nine inch nails slowly into the body. Perhaps this was an adequate deterrent for those contemplating a life of crime.
Nearby, an armed escort agency was established to protect those who could afford it from those who wished they could afford it. Here, Iron Legs Zhao was one of the fearsome protectors of civilized Pingyao.
02 Pingyao Cannons
For those civilized men venturing into the wild Taoist nature outside the city streets, these services were essential to avoid the pillagers, the necromancers, and the bandits. Don't mess with Iron Legs Zhao.The martial arts museum was a highlight simply because, in the main courtyard, you could pick up the weapon of your choice and try it out. They were slightly rusty, but a battle axe or spear could do some serious damage and your opponent would get tetanus.
Scattered throughout the town were homes of businessmen who traded and banked. These residences were typified by several small courtyards and modest rooms. The kitchen, whose element is wood, is situated in the east, which represents fire, to ensure prosperity. Likewise each home needed two trees: having only one tree was considered bad luck. All aspects of home construction emphasized the balance of energies to ensure a healthy home--the principles of feng shui, wind and water, at work.
In the center of town were the commercial areas, including the banks. Banking in China began in the mid 1800s and began to thrive shortly thereafter. Pingyao, due to its central location for commerce, was considered a focal point for banking. At this time, opium consumption was considered an essential part of doing business with esteemed customers. The abacus was the means of calculating values. The clock was an essential banking instrument, checked for accuracy using the city drum tower. The books were meticulously stored and maintained.
Thus was a sampling of life in Pingyao, back in the days.
After a few afternoon hours of relaxing, reading, and chatting in a downtown cafe, I took the overnight train back to Beijing where my new passport awaited me.
