Chill out time

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  Lagos, Algarve, Portugal
Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Mood: soothed

 I apologise in advance but I get the feeling this will be a pretty long entry - even though I have done a lot of sweet nothing. But please read on.

Lagos is a coastal fishing/summer resort town down in the south west of Portugal, and its here that I have chosen to take a few days out to unwind, to enjoy the beach and the sunshine. I was about ready for some time out from feeling like you have to get up every day and see everything. Although its interesting to see the sights in all the different cities, there comes a point where you see one cathedral and you have seen them all, and after a while you start to feel guilty for not wanting to go and experience a new city. The joy of Lagos is that there isn't really anything to see, except the beach, the bar, and the back of your eyelids

me and the cliffs

.  The township itself has a cruisy attitude, there is a huge amount of tourists here... most English speaking, but they aren't overbearing, and im quite enjoying it here. And I'm starting to learn that travel isn't just about ticking another place off your list.

I left Lisbon on Friday morning on the 4 hour bus trip down to the south coast. I was sat next to a lovely old lady who was a little nervous as this was here first trip on a coach by herself. I found it a little strange that she was nervous on something as simple as a bus, but I suppose when you don't travel out of your city much everything is a little daunting. But she was lovely and talked to me in English as I cant speak a word of Portuguese. Its strange that jumping such a small distance from one country to another can produce people so different from each other. Almost everyone that I have had contact with in Portugal have been incredibly friendly, always willing to speak in English, point you in the right direction or give you advice, where as this has been almost non-existent through Spain, and most of southern Europe to be honest. Its refreshing to be able to hold a conversation with locals, and feel welcome.

Our journey out of Lisbon took us over a huge bridge that crosses the river, it was designed by the same guy who did the Golden Gate in San Fran, and I saw the similarities as we approached and crossed over it, especially with the red steel beams and the overall aesthetics

coast

. Actually the whole of Lisbon has that San Francisco look about it, with the trams and the city built on the hillsides overlooking the ocean. On the other side of the river is a huge statue of Jesus with his arms widely outstretched, like the one high on the hill in Rio, Brazil. I'm not sure on its real meaning but Portugal and Brazil have major economic and historical ties, so im guessing that having these statues symbolises this brotherhood. I don't think the one in Lisbon is as spectacular as the one in Rio is, but it was still pretty cool. I took a couple of photos of it out the bus window.

The bus was pretty boring, especially since I didn't have any music to listen to. They played an English movie on the tv, but didn't have anywhere for you to plug headphones into to listen to it, and had subtitles in Portuguese, so I just had to pretend I knew what they were saying. I had seen the movie before but it would have been nice to have at least something to listen to. The bus made a few stops along the way, but it was only really one or 2 people who got off, most got off in Lagos.

Its an unusual town, the centre of the old city is surrounded by a high wall, and its in here that you will find pretty much whatever it is that you came here for. Outside the walls is residential houses and apartment buildings, and not much else. The hostel I am staying in is called Carlos' House, and it sits on a rise overlooking the wall, the township and the beach. it's a  4 level house including a large rooftop patio area, where there is a kitchen, bbq area, and outdoor tables and chairs . They also have a radio set up, as well as an ipod dock so you can listen to your own music if you so wish. The next 2 levels down are dorm rooms, bathrooms and another kitchen, and the bottom level is rooms for the staff, and a waiting area with a couple of couches

coast looking back to Lagos

. I am on the second level in a 6 bed dorm, the rooms are pretty basic but they have proper safes - not just flimsy lockers, and our room even has a small balcony.

When I got there Friday it was getting to the middle of the afternoon, so I spent some time wandering around the little streets in the town centre. They are full of cafes, bars and restaurants, as well as other touristy shops selling overpriced clothes, artwork and jewellery. I checked it out for a while, and then walked along the waterfront near the harbour before finding a supermarket and stocking up on the essentials. Seeing as I was going to be spending 6 nights here I thought I would get some cereal so I could have a proper breakfast, and I also got lots of vegies, pasta, fresh garlic, some meat and cheese, to make a healthy dinner. I had fun lugging my purchases back up the hill to the hostel. I think I drank almost half a litre of milk before I convinced myself to put it into the fridge to save for breakfast. Then I used the rooftop kitchen to make some yummy dinner and ate it out on the patio, chatting to some of the other people who were staying there.

One thing about Lagos is that it is very windy. Annoyingly windy. I'm sitting up on the rooftop here writing this and everything is blowing around me

coast

. I think it has something to do with how close it is to Africa, the area between there and here becomes like a big wind tunnel, and apparently it only gets worse further down south. We also get the full ocean winds as we are smack bang on the coast.  But it also means that it is a lot milder weather here, about 30 degrees during the day, and cold enough to need pants and a thin long sleeved top if you go outside at night.

I wasn't expecting much from the beaches here but was pleasantly surprised when I headed down there on Saturday, they are actually quite beautiful. There is a main beach which curves around to the south, visibly for miles, and this is quite open and is apparently not very pleasant when the wind is going a little nuts, but to the north it turns to cliffs and nestled in the little coves are the cutest beaches I have seen in a while. Because its onto open ocean the water is clear and clean and stunning, the sand is so white and the sheer cliff faces and rocky outcrops covered in cacti and spiny succulents give the scenery a rough but gorgeous look. I found a quiet little cove with not too many people in it and worshipped the sun for the afternoon. Saturday night I hung out on the rooftop with some people before we headed out into the town and visited a couple of bars. There are aussies here everywhere. I think we are unknowingly taking over Europe!!

small grotto

Its been good being able to chat to other travellers, especially in places like this where you have the relaxed atmosphere, it gives you a wider perspective on the world. And generally most people that you talk to are Australian, we all seem to draw together somehow, probably because we have the simillar ideals and opinions. We are also the most friendliest people I have met on this trip, which I guess goes back to our lifestyle and upbringings back home. We all seem to have the same urge and thrill to travel, and the same open-ness to situations and experiences that you don't often feel from people travelling from other areas of the world. And no-one travels for as long as we do! Meeting people like this makes me even prouder to be Australian.

Travelling has also opened me up a lot more, in terms of speaking to people. I have had some of the most in-depth, personal conversations with people who I had never spoken to 1 or 2 hours before. And you tend to finish off these huge conversations not even knowing the persons name. Its something that I am loving. You see a different side of people open up here, and not only does it make you a better conversationalist, it also makes you a better listener, more educated, and a more appreciative person.

So the last few days have pretty much revolved around waking up, eating breakfast, heading down to the beach, relaxing, sleeping, paddling (the water here is freezing - it is the Atlantic remember), reading, lazing, then at about dinnertimish heading back to the hostel, making some dinner of pasta or omelette or whatever you can rustle up, heading out onto the rooftop, sitting there for a couple of hours, maybe heading into town for a while, or sitting downstairs when it gets too cold and playing cards, then going to bed

coast

. I like it. It works for me.

Today though I went out of the norm and decided to hike over to the point where there was apparently a lighthouse. It took me a little under an hour to walk there, and to be honest, it was the pissiest little lighthouse that I had ever seen. It was actually more like a single story house with a knob coming out the top. Kinda disappointing! But the scenery at the point was breathtaking. The cliffs continue along the coastline, and have been broken up and battered by the waves to form something similar to the 12 Apostles back home. There are cool little caves and grottos (though not as impressive as the Blue Grotto in Capri), and I walked along the cliffs for quite a way checking out the little nooks and tiny beaches.  Throughout the town there are people with little stands offering boat trips to see the grottos but I had already done that back in italy so I didn't bother to look again. I think I am also a little worried that I will be disappointed because as far as im concerned, nothing can beat Capri.

A couple of exciting things happened on my way back. Firstly, I walked past an outdoor furniture store. Hahaha. I couldn't help but have a peak inside. Then the second thing was that I saw MY CAR!!!!!! I have not seen one since arriving in Munich

Jesus statue

. I was starting to believe that they never released them in Europe, except I had seen a couple in Athens - though Athens doesn't count. But I was so EXCITED I couldn't believe my eyes. It was white and everything. I wanted to take a photo of it but it drove off too quickly. I contemplated chasing it down the road but I decided better of it, as I cant really outrun a car. But it was a momentous occasion for me to say the least. I miss my little beast dearly.

So if anyone has been wondering, Larry is doing really well. He loves the laidback lifestyle of Lagos, though he hasn't been too approving of the internet connection here - it's a little slow for his liking. But hes loving his little security locker, I think he likes the feeling of being safe and snug. I have taken him out onto the rooftop a couple of times to check out the view and he seems to approve. We are having lots of fun together. He cant wait to get to Morocco -  though neither can I. I think he's ready for a hands on experience. We have a great relationship - he helps me and I show him the world. It works.

Anyway...

I feel like its time to give out a few random facts. I haven't done any in a while.

Although the sun is hot - its freezing here! The wind drops the temperature down at least 5 - 10 degrees. Its not too bad in the little coves of the beaches, but in the town and when your inside the hostel or on the rooftop I get goosebumps. A concept I have not seen in quite a while. While I am sitting here watching the hairs on my arms stand on end, about 4 hours inland is Seville, where the temp is averaging over 40 degrees every day

Entrance to harbour

. Silly weather.

I have had quite a good chance here to work on my tan. And because the sun is quite weak, I have been turning brown straight away and have not got sunburnt since I left the Greek islands! Rejoice! I like stretching apart my fingers and looking at the contrast of the white webbing against the brown skin. Or admiring the thong tan on my feet. How many days since I wore shoes you may ask?? Hmmm, too many to count I think!!! Hahahahahaha. Best feeling ever. I cannot complain

I have been able to stick to my budget really well here, I have actually been under it the whole time by at least 10 euros. I am spending about 25 - 30 euro a day including accommodation. My budget is around 40euro. More money to spend elsewhere.

I have met some really lovely people here in this hostel, lots of aussies, a few Canadians and a couple of Americans. We all seem to congregate on the rooftop at around 7 or 8pm and share our travel stories (or horrors!). The other day we got into a deep and meaningful about what we would do if we won the lottery. We all spent a lot of time drifting off into space during that conversation - thinking.

Harbour in Lagos

Im sure some of it would be put towards coming back here!

South Portugal has been the first place where I have seen the high-rise style of buildings and resorts that we tend to get along the coastline at home - the Gold Coast for example. Up until now I was quite surprised but pleased at how they were still trying to defy the whole big corporate tourist takeover of the towns and cities along the coasts, but obviously here they have succeeded. Its nothing like home, but I think its well on its way of getting there.

I had to invest in more milk today... noooo! 4th litre since I got here.

I also had to buy more toothpaste. And im almost due for a new shampoo. Just in case you were wondering.

Well my brain is hurting so I might numb it for a while by finishing off this entry and uploading some pretty pictures for you to see of the countryside. I'm not used to thinking so much.
 
Oh and by the way... as much as i love my parents for writing me comments - whats happened to everyone else out there??? I love hearing from everyone at home and so please im begging you - humour me and write something! questions, news, whatever, i dont care. i will reply i promise! :) thanks guys!

Post your own travel photos for friends and family More Pictures

pedestrian bridge	pathway along the entrance to the harbour	Potato beach	coast
grotto in the cliffs	coast	kayakers in the cove	coast
me and the coastline from the lighthouse	view from the clifftops	coast	coast
coast	the woosy little lighthouse - how rediculous	one of the many beaches

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