Huancayo Hotels
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Folk festival in Jauja
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Retrieving my equipment from customs took longer than I expected (it shouldn't have been a surprise as I was warned about the red tape here). So I decided to take advantage of the weekend and go to Jauja, a small town of 30,000 inhabitants some 5 hrs by bus east of Lima.
Jauja is probably one of my favourite places in Peru so far, although its hard to choose because every city and area I visit seems to have a "wow" factor. Jauja's charm, at least for me, lies in the traditional way of life of its people, unspoiled by the hoards of tourists that frequent cities such as Cuzco and Arequipa. Its also a major folk festival center - the owner of the hostel I stayed at, a hospitable french guy called Bruno, told me that there are folk dances and celebrations year round.
For those of you venturing out into this little visited town, the Manco Capac hostal comes highly recommended. It has two wonderful gardens with rain-sheltered patios, and the rooms are tastefully decorated. Bruno and his staff were very hospitable.
On Sunday I walked through a maze of market streets to get to the main arena where all dances are held. This was not a tourist market - no trinklets or cheesy souvenirs. Amid the household goods and scores of shoe stores you can see food stalls with all sorts of grilled meat on offer. The grilled cuy (guinea pig, local delicacy) is engrained in my mind forever. Apparently the head is supposed to be the juiciest part. Many stalls displayed large trays of cuy, stacked one on top of another; their eye-less char-grilled faces seem to stare right at you in admonishment. The two rather long sharp front teeth make their lifeless faces look all the more threatening.
Other food stalls had these large round pots constructed of brick, where coals are laid at the bottom and left to burn to ambers; then all sorts of vegetables are placed on top, but mostly corn and potatoes. The pot is filled almost to the brim, after which it is covered with layers of wood planks, blankets and nylon for a steaming effect.
The plaza where dances are held is lined with food stalls as well. In the middle there is a circular arena, around which people gather to watch the folk dancers. Bruno and I managed to secure a viewing spot right at the base of the arena. Dancers from various regions come out, dressed in amazingly colourful traditional clothing, and perform their routine going round the arena once, after which they make way for the next group of dancers. I expected the dances to be lively and fast, but that was not the case. Movements are slow and deliberate; as if the point is more to show off the craftsmanship on their costumes than to display any particular dancing skills. It was hard for me to distinguish one song from the next, they all sounded like one long whailing to me... even so the whole experience was fascinating.
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