Sunset on our Croatian experience

Trip Start Aug 11, 2009
Trip End Sep 30, 2010

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Rooms Kresan

Flag of Croatia  ,
Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Zadar claims to have the most beautiful sunset in the world, apparently something that Hitchcock wrote after a visit. I'm not sure what qualifies old Alfred as the world sunset judge, but I'm guessing he was there during better weather than us. Our first evening was cloudy and grey and the sunset a mere pink smudge on the distant horizon.

Zadar old town is set on a tiny, well fortified peninsular with nothing much natural remaining about the shape of the very linear and stone wall reinforced coastline. The tip of the peninsular is extremely popular in the evening - not just for those  famous sunsets but also for the sun salutation. No, its not bulk yoga classes but a huge circular plate of solar panels and LEDs set into the ground, producing a light show after dark. The soundtrack to this display was the melancholy chords of the seriously cool sea organ - a series of pipes played by the waves and rather reminiscent of whale song. When we returned the following day the sea was stormy and waves raked along the the footpath, belting out a much louder and faster (but still slightly melancholy) tune. For visual entertainment there was a steady stream of tourists lying on the footpath, ears pressed to the holes in the ground for a close up aural experience of the sea organ. Yes, we were also those tourists.

The walls and fortifications are pretty seriously solid. These days they do a better job of keeping  tourists in rather than invading Ottoman hordes out - those gates are seriously hard to find! Some of the bastions are now topped with parkland and trees, adding a third dimension to the maze of the city. Maybe that is also why the shortcut - in the form of a guy in a little red rowing boat shuttling people across the tiny bay - is so popular. Or maybe it is the history, as it is claimed that he has been here for the last 800 years.

It seems that summer is already too distant a memory to even think about swimming. A pity as we were keen to swim along the sea organ for a better view of the pipes.
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