Magical Angkor

Trip Start Aug 15, 2007
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Trip End Aug 31, 2008


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Saturday, February 2, 2008

We decided to take Lonely Planet's recommendation and do the transport from Bangkok to Siem Reap independently. The bus ride from Bangkok to the Thai border went smooth...but at the border things changed and we were tormented by thousands of pseudo-Cambodian-Tourist-Officers, taxi drivers, money changers,  etc. It was dusty and super hot and the search for the next bus connection to take us to Siem Reap was unsuccessful...after 30 minutes of harassment and heat we gave up and took a $30 cab for the next 4 hours which was not too bad but quite steep for Cambodia....the road was still in horrible shape (just like I remembered from 6 years ago) with tons of bumps and very dusty. But the views were rewarding with the first rice patties and the Cambodian life unfolding in front of us. Cambodia is much poorer than neighboring Thailand but doesn't lack in charm....the people are also very different: where the Thai is slightly reserved, the Cambodian is very curious, charming and direct...they always smile and wave at you and try to sell you something in about 5 languages...and they are very persistent which usually breaks any barriers and you wind up buying the most unnecessary things..also, they are all just stunningly beautiful On the road to Siem Reap
On the road to Siem Reap
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Siem Reap, the town next to the famous temples of Angkor has changed quite about from what I recall; it used to be the place you had to stay at to see Angkor - dirty, mediocre restaurants etc.
This time around I felt like this was a completely different town; it's grown like crazy and it's actually really charming with lots of cute alleys, great restaurants, one luxury hotel popping up after the other etc.
And the best: it's even cheaper that Thailand! $3 for a massage! Who needs more!
Also, the food is much better than I remembered; the Fish Amok is just incredible.

But of course the highlight of Siem Reap is and will always be the temples of Angkor. The biggest religious monument in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is the most stunning archaeological place we have ever seen. The size is  tremendous with tons of temples scattered around the jungle and the beauty unbeatable.
The only downside are the tourist swarms everywhere, but you can still find temples off the beaten track...

The highlight was the annual "Les Nuits d'Angkor" dance festival which took place at Angkor Wat. We were lucky enough to grab some last minute seats for the special performance and experience Angkor illuminated at night. The performance was a mix of modern and traditional dance with first a contemporary French dance company and then the Royal Cambodian Ballet with a typical Apsara dance. Overall one of these moments in life you will never forget. It's definitely worth planning a trip to Angkor during these dates.
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