Gonder

Trip Start Sep 01, 2005

Trip End Ongoing

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Flag of Ethiopia Gonder, Ethiopia
Wednesday, December 7, 2005

Three hours after we departed, after passing through the mountainous farmland we arrived on the Northern banks of Lake Tana in Gonder. After the sharp turns, steep cliffs and seeing a few guns in some pockets, we began to wonder if we should bypass the 6-8 day journey through Kenya and take the $450 flight to Dar es Salaam instead.
Described, by someone, as Africa's Camelot, Gonder is home to several castles dating back to the 17th century when Ethiopia was a wealthy nation with caravan routes to the Red Sea. Three wealthy rulers had built palaces in one compound in Gonder. Though their lavish riches and decorations are long gone, the basalt walls, domed towers and crenellated parapets still stand. Architecturally they are a cross between something Arabic, Hindi and African. I never really thought about what a castle in Africa would look like, but seeing these I could envision a kingdom rich in raw material and powerful in military and trade.
We counted down the time that we had in Africa and decided that a one day visit in Gonder would have to do. An Indian couple that we had met on the cruise had marveled at our intent on going to India. "Oh, you will love India," they told us. "The palaces and the mountains are wonderful, the beaches in Karula are some of the most beautiful in the world. It is easy to travel, the train is excellent. You will love it. You will absolutely love it, and now is the perfect time to go."
"That's great, but we won't be there until April. First we have to make it to South Africa, then we will go to India." We replied.
"You're going in April? Oh my gosh, no. You will be very, very uncomfortable. In April it is so hot. Oh, no, you will be very uncomfortable. If there is anyway that you can go sooner you must. We don't even like it in India anytime in March or April."
The monsoons there begin in May. So, knowing that the sooner that we made it to India the better.
The castles are impressive and the town was OK. From a rooftop restaurant we ate pasta and watched the sunset. An Italian named Aldo was our dinner companion that night. Twenty years ago he had spent a year and a half hitchhiking through Africa with no money. He slept in the homes of people that he met and ate dinner on the streets like the locals. Hearing his stories made us think that we should take the overland route to Tanzania. Other feelings still made us want to fly. The next morning we would fly to Lalibela. The $50 flight would save us 2 days of bus travel. From there we would make the two day bus trip back to Addis. Perhaps after that we would have some clarity on our debate.