Turkey

Trip Start Sep 01, 2005

Trip End Ongoing

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Flag of Turkey Istanbul, Turkey
Tuesday, November 8, 2005

The Ural Mountains form the major geographical boarder between Europe and Asia. Traffic has never formed many routes here because the tall mountains stretch for a long way then release into Siberia. To reach the riches of India from there, one would have to cross the Himalayas as well. The only other option for East-West land travel across the landmass funnels to a single point where the Bosphorus strait is most narrow and separates Europe from Asia. The first evidence of habitation there is of small fishing villages some 7,000 years ago. Since that time the point has had critical importance as the gateway between the East and the West. Through the ages this location has cradled many dynasties, nations and religions and has held the knowledge of them all. It has been defended and attacked consistently through it existence as its significance has never been underestimated. This narrow point along the Bosphorus is now called Istanbul in modern day Turkey.

blue mosque

We landed in probably the most toured part of Istanbul, Sultahnamet, where both the great Hagia Sophia and the stunning Blue Mosque stand on a hill, visible from the sea. The area is chalked full with guesthouses, pensions and hostels as tourists have been drawn to the area for thousands of years. We looked around the many hotel rooms and dorm-style hostels, and then settled into a basement room that slept three. From the rooftop terrace we had views of the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia and our own busy street. We arrived at night and for dinner ate olives, cheese and crackers that we bought at a small store near by.
With our room came breakfast. Josh had the omelet, Erin had the yoghurt with fruit, and I ordered the "Turkish" breakfast: a plate with rolls, sliced cucumber and tomatoes, cheese and olives. After eating several small sandwiches and a cup of hot tea, we left the restaurant without a destination.
We walked along the shore of the Bosphorus and looked across the strait into Asia, wondering just how far the land stretched and what it held. The number of historical figures that had done the same was awesome: Alexander the Great, Constantine, Justin, Suleiman the Magnificent are just a few names that had held our same vantage.
We walked through the Grand Bazaar, an indoor market with acres of gold and silver, colored beads and glass lanterns, water pipes, intricate hand woven carpets, pashmere shawls, t-shirts saying "Turkie", cakes dripping in sweet honey syrups and mounds of spices

Bridge

. Then we strolled towards the University where a communist demonstration had drawn more police spectators than any other. We thought of the Ottoman Empire and the first Universities, which housed scholars in the name of increasing common knowledge. We continued through the hills of the city, catching glimpses of the rough sea, and snacked of pistachios, dried apricots and rice pudding along the way.
On our way home that evening, I ran into a vendor selling Turkish chocolate on our street, and could resist but buy enough to last the rest of the week. That night, we dressed in layers against the cold wind and enjoyed the chocolate and the views from the terrace. We stopped again at the grocery and bought enough olives, cheese ands crackers to fill our stomachs until the next Turkish breakfast.
For two days we followed the same routine touring the streets, aiming for destinations further and further away. The shouts of vendors followed us all the way. "Are you hungry? We got the best shoarma, the very, very best shoarma. Come, have some tea. We have what you are looking for. This carpet has waited ages for you. Please, let me show you my shop. Looking is free."
We debated where to go next and how we should spend our time. There was Troy with Achilles and the horse. There was Gallipoli, a pilgrimage site for Australians who spend weeks in high school learning about their countries major battle site on WWII. There was Capadoccia where ancient homes are carved into bulbous rock structures. The were the mountains and secluded cultures to the East, and the beautiful beaches on the Sea of Mamara to the West. We had just five days, hardly enough time to scratch the surface of Turkey and the distances were far, so we could choose only one place.
We decided on Selcuk where an overnight bus would lead us to a small relaxing town and the ruins of the ancient city Ephesus, the temple remains of Artemis, the Basilica of St. John, and the home of St. Mary.