Government Street
Trip Start
Apr 03, 2006
1
15
20
Trip End
Jun 30, 2006
Victoria, Canada
Sunday, January 21, 2007
Blog Written: January 18, 2007
Government Street -- From Inner Harbour through Downtown
Government Street, yes beautiful Government Street, is undoubtedly Victoria's most famous street to see a varied cross-section of the town.
Starting on the Stait of Juan de Fuca, it runs north for about four kilometers. Firstly, it passes through historic James Bay, where one of the attractions among the many historical homes is the Emily Carr House, then past the Provincial Legislature (from which it gets its name), past the Inner Harbour and the Empress Hotel and then it plunges through downtown to end at Douglas Rd
01-the starting point
. near Gorge Rd. East.From the Inner Harbour north, it becomes a very bustling steet achieving almost a pedestrian mall status with its wide, tree-lined sidewalks and only one lane of traffic. It is a hub of activity at most times and at the best of times, when the cruise ships are in port (not the Inner Harbour but the Outer Harbour at Odgen Point), it absolutely rocks with tourists and activity.
Having walked this street almost daily during our four month stay, I was always amazed at the display of traditional architecture in its buildings which in my mind distinguished it from other Canadian cities. While many of the stores, boutiques and restaurants are quaint, there are four that merit special attention: Rogers Chocolates, Murchies, The Christmas Store and Old Morris Tobacconist.
I include the Tobacconist located at 1116 Government because it is such a throw back to another era when smoking was king. It makes no concession to warning labels on cigarette packages nor medical studies. It blithely carries on in its own world pretending that tobacco products: merit all the charm and atmosphere that the store embodies. From the wood paneling on the wall, to the special cigar room featuring Cuban cigars, to the high ceilings, to the antique electrolier, imported from Italy; everything reeks of normalcy and enjoyment of products which surely must bring happiness, at least to the owners
02- the other side of Government
. It is also a favourite destination for cruise ship patrons and especially sailors on American war ships which make a beeline to the tobacco products sold here. Needless to say the Cuban cigars are a big hit.Murchies, a tea room which dates back to 1883, is a place I by-passed for a long time because of its modest exterior. When I finally entered I was surprised by the size of the interior and the scope of its quaintness in presenting tea and all its paraphernalia in a most quaint and turn of the century manner. If the Empress is too pricy for you, then Murchies would be a good alternative for Afternoon Tea.
The Christmas Store at NO. is a must even if you are not a fan of Christmas. It is visual overload at its best with burst of bright intense colours in all directions. It even has the smell of Christmas about it. The store definitely achieves its objective in creating a Merry Christmas atmosphere in the middle of the summer.
Finally, I would like to highlight another Victoria institution - Rogers Chocolates. A family business since 1898, it seems to have changed little since then and therein lays its charm. Wall to wall chocolates and wooden paneling displaying old family photos mixed in with clerks in period costumes, all succeed to make Rogers Chocolates the place to buy chocolates, notwithstanding Rocky Mountain chocolates down the street
03- in front of Empress Hotel
.There are many other interesting businesses on the street, and all one needs to do is to have the time to stroll from the Provincial Legislature to View Street for an amazing stroll.
Do not be put off by the numerous panhandlers that regularly ply their trade as well as the many buskers all competing for a dollar.
The buskers are a source of entertainment during an evening stroll. They are numerous and jostle for the best positions during the summer months.
From the Plaster Man, frozen in a pose; to "Dave", endlessly and tirelessly playing his multi-instrument one-man band; to the First Nations man endlessly strumming the same haunting tune on this guitar to the approving glances of his ever-present wife; to the wild, one man drummer who plays late into the night near Government and View; just to mention a few, one can pass an enjoyable evening just strolling and enjoying.
Bastion Square with its abundance of pubs and restaurants is a good place to indulge or just watch the young people having fun as they jostle to gain entry to the local clubs dressed to the hilt in whatever style in.
As I write about this in January, sitting in Prince George, there is a warm feeling of contentment that comes over me just thinking of the nice times passed on Government Street.
