Tahsis - Birthplace of British Columbia
Tahsis is at the end of the road, and some road it is.
Unpaved and sixty-five kilometers beyond Gold River, winding through breath taking country, reminiscent of the Alaska Highway, this "Tree to Sea Drive "as it has been dubbed, rewards the traveler with two and a half hours of adventure travel.
You may ask why does it take two and a half hours (one and a half back) to drive the 65 kilometers. The road is generally quite good for a hard packed travel road but it is hard to avoid the wash board effect. Since one would like to leave with the car still intact it is best to keep the maximum speed to 40 km. Many times 40 km is not possible and there are hazards with huge clouds of dust created by oncoming traffic obscuring the view. There are constant warning signs of approaching lumber truck, but we saw none.
The main cause for the slow progress however, is the beautiful scenery which begs the taking of photos. That is not a complaint as it is a pleasure to drive into the interior of Northern British Columbia.
One rightly has the impression of being far from civilization as the end of the road leads to the headwaters of Tahsis Inlet, where the small village of Tahsis is located.
Near the mouth of fijord-like Tahsis Inlet, a part of Nootka Sound, accessible only water is the historic settlement of Yuqot, also known as Friendly Cove. Once a large native village, there is apparently only one family left.
One can only imagine (no, I really can't) the historical moment in March 1778 when Captain James Cooke of the British Royal Navy set foot near Yuqot to encounter Chief Maquinna. This was the first European contact with the Mowachaht First Nations people who had been in this area for centuries, and this fateful day would change their existence forever.
It is because of these events and its proximity to Yuquot, that Tahsis claims the title of "Birthplace of British Columbia".
Near by historical names, such as Resolution Cove and Bligh Island, convey the names of Cooke's ship and his first officer , James Bligh, who would go on to leave his own mark on British naval history.
Mutiny on the Bounty was by far my favourite book in high school and the movie with Marlon Brando, who played Captain Bligh, was also a favorite,
Today Tahsis offers some of the best salmon and halibut fishing in BC. It is also known for its great scuba diving and at certain times of the year six gill sharks can be seen in 30 ft of water nearby. "Caving Capital of Canada" is another title with the town lays claim to. In addition it is a great place for sea kayaking, hiking, bird watching and wild life viewing.
Having passed the last landmark on the drive - the so-called President's Tree, a huge Douglas-fir, one shortly is confronted by the awe inspiring sight of Tahsis across Tashis Inlet and surrounded by the Rugged Mountain Range.
It definitely was an effort to come here, but an effort well rewarded in scenery and historical importance.
An easier way to visit however, is to take the MV Uchuck III from Gold River. It takes passengers only and would require an overnight stay.
A huge expanse of concrete floor at the start of the town is all that is left of a sawmill that once employed 2,500 high earners only five years ago. This is an economic knock-out punch the town is trying to survive with tourism.
The closing of the mill of course led to a mass exodus, aided by the company buyout of real estate at fair prices. Many of the existing houses appear to be need of sprucing things are apparently slowly picking up.
The exodus has left the town with an elementary/secondary school population of 37, partly due to the fact that some parents have opted for home schooling.
They are struggling to keep the school open because the alternative would be the arduous 65 km bus ride to Gold River.
Post closing of the mill has led to heavy alcohol and drug abuse which is the downside of "paradise", a term used by some of the locals we spoke with. There are two liquor outlets in this small community.
Tahsis -- historical, breath taking in its setting, adventurous to reach and "at the end of the road" is definitely worth the visit.
www.villageoftahsis.com
Gold River - Gateway to Historic Nootka Sound
Located at the end of Highway 28, it is a scenic hours drive from Campbell River.
Recently,it has received world wide attention due to Luna the killer whale which was separated from its pod and has been making life difficult for local boaters while captivating visitors by its frequent sightings from the town government wharf.
Ample signs warn small boaters of the dangers the orphaned whale represents to their safety.
Weeks later we were on a ferry crossing from Pender Island to Swartz Bay when we spotted a pod of Orca Whales. In an ensuing conversation with a passenger we learned that Luna had been killed last March by a boat propeller.
No one had bothered to take down the signs back in Gold River. On the other hand, had the signs been taken down we would probably have visited Gold River without knowing that this was the venue for the Luna story we had seen previously on television.
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Update --July 26, 2006
Native Chief Jerry Jack, a hereditary chief, from Gold River, drowned when a cermonial canoe carrying several person capsized near Sequim, Wahington. The group had paddled from Victoria and was on their way to an intertribal gathering south of Seattle when they were surpirsed by high waves and winds.
He was best known for being the main defender of Luna and the leader of a native group which tried to reunite Luna with its pod.
Natives believed Luna was the reincarnation of former chief Ambrose Maquinna who was the presiding chief at the time of Cooke's landing.
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Also of interest at the wharf is the MV Uchuck III, which is based here, and serves as an important link to the outside world for the isolated the coastal communities. As mentioned, it is the preferred way to go to Tahsis.
For an interesting view of one of the economic engines of British Columbia - the forestry industry-there is a large saw mill on the other side of the wharf.
Everything about saw mills is big, from the giant trucks with their monsterous tires which can be shredded in the rough terraine, to the miles of steel cable which are used in the moving of the felled trees in the rugged forest terrain.
The parking lot attests to the fact that trucks are the vehicle of choice for workers in saw mills. The Smart cars, which are incredibly popular here in Victoria are conspicuously absent in this rugged, macho environment.
Because of time constraints we actually drove back from Tashis on the evening of our arrival.
On our evening passage through Gold River we stopped at the Ridge Pub Inn for a bite to eat. The setting, on top a rigde overlooking the town and the surrounding mountains, was even impressing at night.
Barbara was in her element because it happened to be a Kareoke bar as well. She love singing, and here was, excuse the pun - - a 'golden" opportunity for her. She did not flub it as she sang about four beautiful songs between bites of supper.
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