Seward to Homer - The Kenai Peninsula - Part 13
Trip Start
Dec 28, 2008
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Homer,
Alaska,
United States
Saturday, September 15, 2007
Homer - The Kenai PeninsulaThe next morning I debated whether to drive the 150 miles to
the town of Homer on the other
south-west side of Kenai Peninsula.It seemed out of the way and I had no information about
Homer. Soon the "I'm only here once in my life time so why not go and have a
look" logic took over and I was on my way.It was a good decision since it turned into a fabulous day.The first part of my trip was retracing, for a distance of
37 kilometers, the Seward Highway
that I drove yesterday. At that point, Highway 1 leads west across the Kenai
Peninsula to the towns of Soldotna and Kenai
City.The junction of the Seward and Highway No. 1 is also the
location of Kenai Lake
and I must have taken 20 photos at this scenic spot highlighted by high
mountains on all sides and a lake that mirrors its surroundings which are
ablaze in autumn colours.As I drove along the Kenai
River west it appeared to be a fly
fisherman's paradise as fishermen were tripping over each other to get a line
into the water. Brochures that I picked up later confirmed that this
area of the river along Cooper Landing is a prime fly fishing river in Alaska.The boats used by the fishermen had a lot of similarity
with the Newfoundland dinghy. Also mixed into this were the continuous bear warnings or
notification of entire areas which were closed due to bear encounters.I couldn't believe my good luck at having this super scenery
continue along my route highlighted by beautiful fall colours.Then suddenly after Cooper Landing the terrain
flattened out into vast forest land.
- from Seward to Kenai City to Homer
It could have been Ontario,it was so flat. This continued right across the peninsula where I stopped to
explore tiny Kenai City.The drive however was pleasant in that it was developing
into my first truly sunny day in Alaska
and the "Oldies station" on the radio was pumping out one great hit after the
other. Mick Jagger's "Mother's Little Helper" containing the line "what a drag
it is getting old" really stuck with me
as I could relate to that.While in search for an afternoon coffee I came across one of
my most profound finds of the day - a Russian Orthodox Church built at the turn
of the 19th century.It is nice to write about Seward and the Russian purchase as
I did in my last blog but here was living proof that the area was once occupied
by the Russians. To my amazement the church was open so it was time to go and
explore. The interiors of Russian Orthodox Churches are decorated with
paintings of religious icons and murals which are hanging everywhere. The
overwhelming colour is gold. There are no pews, just standing room. There is a
heavy use of candles. On the exterior the characteristic onion dome towers are
awesome in their design and the clapboard white exterior makes a beautiful
contrast with the fall colours.What struck me were the three barred crosses that are in
evidence everywhere and that symbolize a different kind of Christianity.In short order worshippers started to appear and a service
was about to start. The first part of the service was started with chants
led by an invisible priest.
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After several minutes the priest came out of hisobscure place to lead more chanting.Unfortunately, at this point I decided to leave as I was
again pressed for time in reaching Homer before the fall of night.I was really pumped by this historic evidence and kept
thinking about this small flock of ten parishioners chanting away in Russian
and practicing a form of Christianity which was far from the mainstream.I also wondered how the priest was being remunerated. The
money must have come from Moscow as
he represents the Orthodox Christian Church of Moscow,
a body of Christians who are united under the Patriarch of Russia and in union with
the primates of the Eastern Orthodox Church.The way of holding services of the Orthodox Christian Church
of Moscow has basically not changed
in 1000 years.The pope is not recognized as the head of the church due to
a great schism which took place around 1054 separating the Orthodox east and
the Latin west.As I drove away I had to think about these brave souls and
the courage it must have taken to practice their religion during the period of
the Cold War when the United States
and the U.S.S.R were global competitors for world power.I think the short visit was good for my soul as I saw the
determination and strength of conviction which people hold in maintaining a
link with the past.As I left Kenai City
I followed the Sterling Highway
(No. 1) south along beautiful Cook Inlet. At one point I
drove down from the steep heights along the sea to eventually touch the vast
sands of the beach and waters of the inlet.
- leaving Seward
I had my concerns about the Volvo beingable to get back up the steep incline which was more appropriate for ATVs but
it handled it without a problem in first gear.There was only one thing better that could have happened and
that was to find another Russian Orthodox Church along the way. That happened
about an hour later in the hamlet of Ninilchik. This church was not as beautiful as the first but the
isolation of the faith was symbolized by its lonely location on a bluff
overlooking the hamlet below. It was also surrounded by a sea of white orthodox
crosses marking the poorly kept cemetery that surrounded the church.If there are more of these Russian Orthodox churches it
would be a great idea to emulate California's
Old Spanish Mission Trail up and down the California
coast. I speculate that there are very few of these churches left
due to neglect, lack of money, lack of membership and during the Cold War, hostility
towards parishioners. During that time it would certainly not have been
politically popular to spend tax payer's money to keep these historical jewels
from falling into neglect and eventually disappearing. It would have been a lot
more popular to just let the wrecking ball or neglect do its work. I am not
implying that viable churches would have been destroyed but rather the ones
which would have fallen into disuse.Perhaps that makes the few that remain all the more
remarkable.It was with regret that I left the Russian Orthodox Church
at Ninilchik as I felt that this would be last one that I would see.Upon reaching the town of Homer,
the reward is a city of superb setting.
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There are four huge glaciers in themountains across Cook Inlet glistening in the last rays
of the evening light that serve as a backdrop to the town. On the last stretch
of the route towards the city, in an illusion of space and perspective, the
road seems to lead right into a giant glacier.The final crowning feature for Homer is the 5 km spit that
goes right out into Cook Inlet. How remarkable is that?
Just a narrow causeway that leads to the commercial harbour, the yacht harbour,
the container port, the Alaska
and Homer Ferries and an eclectic collection of shops and condos that made me
think of Cape Hatteras.The next time I think Homer, it won't be the Greek
philosopher - it will be the spectacular setting of this town.Another pleasure of the drive to Homer was that the heavy traffic
I had encountered on the way to Seward did not exist here.The drive back to Anchorage
on Sunday was again a sunny day with the roads teeming with motorcycles as many
riders from Anchorage took
advantage of this day.
Just before Anchorage
I relaxed a bit by taking a lovely walk on a boardwalk leading into a lush
marshland. It was time to reflect upon this wonderful weekend.In the final analysis, I certainly was glad to have made
this detour to Homer and to I have gotten a better perspective of what a great
place the Kenai Peninsula is.
