Pacific Rim -- Tofino and Ucluelet - Part 9 of 11
Trip Start
Dec 28, 2008
1
27
187
Trip End
Ongoing
Tofino,
British Columbia,
Canada
Thursday, August 30, 2007
Blog Written: August 29, 2007
Photos by Dianna
The Pacific Rim - Ucluelet, Pacific Rim National Park, Tofino,
Mussel Beach Campground
It is with fond memories that Barbara and I recall the beautiful Victoria Day weekend that we spent in Tofino last year. It was easy to remember that it was this particular weekend because we visited historic Clayoquot Island, which is only open to the public on Victoria Day.
Another highlight of last year's trip was that we were fortunate enough to get a camping spot at Crystal Cove Beach Resort just outside Tofino, our best campground ever.
http://www.crystalcovebeachresort.com
Among other things, I am still impressed with the huge urn of hot coffee that is available to guests all day long.
Victoria: Blog 7 - Pacific Rim - Tofino (61 photos)
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Unfortuantely this year, none of that was to come to pass.
There was not a camping spot to be had in Tofino, nor the Pacific Rim National Park, nor in Ucluelet several days before we left Prince George. This is the summer high season and everyone wants to be in Tofino (if the weather co-operates, and that is a big if!)
The only place I could find with tent placements available was a wilderness campground called Mussel Beach near Ucluelet.
Where Highway 4 makes the big turn north near the Pacific Ocean to Tofino, turn south towards Ucluelet. Turn left at Juntion 4 for 1 km and turn left on Port Albion road for 4 km's and then turn left on to a gravel logging road for 8 km's to mussel Beach.
http://ucluelet.travel.bc.ca/listings/mussel-beach-campgroun d/23309/
camping on Mussel Beach (Ucluelet)
it's so nice, they can hardly bear it
wilderness camping
the bay
The emphasis in this campground is on "wilderness|". That word translates into: no electricity, no running water, no hot water other than showers, and earth pit toilets.
I must say that we were pretty apprehensive and some of us were downright resistant to camping here.
Our spirits picked up a lot when we arrived at a beautiful bay lined with camp spots along the beach.
It could have passed as a set for the TV series -Survivor with a beautiful spot already constructed for the council meeting to vote the next person off the beach.
ready for the Tribal Council
Susan the owner/caretaker was very helpful and friendly. She invited us to go and select a spot either near the beach, in the woods or on the beach.
We certainly paid attention when she said, "after you have made your selection, I will give you the bear speech". At that point we looked at each other and the empty spot near the beach right in front of the office/residence looked mighty inviting and that is what we selected.
As we had arrived close to 21:30, night fell quickly and that is when Glenn built a campfire. It is a nice part of camping which I have not yet integrated into my camping routine.
We spent the rest of the evening falling over each other with comments as to how beautiful this spot was and watching the unparalleled starry sky full of moving objects.
One of the first we saw was the space station. Bigger and brighter than any star, it moved quickly across the evening sky. How appropriate that the Space Station with a Canadian aboard, astronaut Dave Williams, should cross this little section of Ucluelet.
If one looks long enough at the night sky, a lot of things seem to have some movement to them and it is difficult to tell the real from the mostly imagined or illusionary.
We slept well and the next morning we were on a mission. Today we had to reach Victoria with a stop in amazing Chemainus.
For further info about Mussel Beach Campground, please read the comments below.
Comments
Thank you for your article and pictures
I would like to make a correction for your readers that in your directions 'About 5 km along the road, take the first left and follow the inadequate signs to Mussel Beach. It will eventually lead you along a 12 km bumpy, washboard-like forestry road to Mussel Beach.' You turn left at Juntion 4 for 1 KM and turn left on Port Albion road for 4 KM's and turn left on to a gravel logging road for 8 km's to mussel Beach.
We will try and improve the signs.
Please go to http://www.musselbeachcampground.com for more info
RV west article about Mussel Beach campground
The present road in is a Forestry road call Barkley Main which is presently being upgraded, the way in is signed at the various turn offs and is 8kms of solid base surface but can be slow going in parts if it hasn't been graded recently. All types of cars, RV's and trailer travel the road at a slow pace which takes an average of 20 minutes. The campground is located on 153 acres which has one mile of ocean front. The daily campground occupies 3000 ft of south facing ocean front with 60 sites, 30 of them being ocean front. The sites them selves are kept natural and vary in sizes some can accommodate two families. There is a 1/2 acre beach front site with it's own vehicle entrance which can accommodate large groups. Presently there is no hydro available on the property therefore no hook ups.
There are hot showers heated by propane, 12 pit toilet, and toilet with holding tanks available. Rain water is collected in large tanks and is available for wash water so bring in drinking water.
The view to the east is the Broken Island Group which is part of the Pacific Rim National park reserve consisting of over 100 islands with a back drop of coastal mountain range, to the south open pacific ocean and a little to the southwest a view of chrows Island.
There is access to miles of foreshore going east and west of the campground, between high and low tides is a mixture of moonscape type gullies with various size tidal pools teaming with sea life, sandy and flat bare rock areas, sea caves, huge old growth cedars and spruce tree at waters edge. You can spend days wandering along theses beaches peering into tidal pools marveling at the sea life amongst or beneath the rocks. Hunt through the float sum for interesting discoveries as glass balls, fishing floats, shells, and drift wood.
Watch the eagles, sea lions, harbor seals, otters, black bears, mink and many different water foul foraging for their daily food. Watch the various whale watching, fishing and all sorts of sea going traffic passing by the campground on their regular routines.
In summer at high tide car top boats can be launched for excellent salmon fishing, kayaking, scuba diving as the area is protected by the summer westerly winds.
You can watch Grey Whales as they migrate up and down the coast from March through to September from shore. There 15 feet high blows, backs, tails and even their broaching can clearly be seen and even photographed from shore.
We enjoy a temperate climate with year round temperature ranges from 5
To 25' C. snow fall is minimal with 328 frost free days with 2000 hours of sunshine a year.
During the winter months, you can see nature at it's wildest; the large surf is great for watching the surf boarders riding the massive long waves or just watch them thundering amongst the rocky shore line sending foaming ocean spray whipped by the wind high into the air.
Other notable attractions in the area are the towns of Ucluelet and Tofino with the famous Long Beach National Federal Park with its 30 kilometers of sandy beaches.
Take a stroll a long the Wild Pacific Trail system located in the District of Ucluelet which skirts the rugged cliffs and shore line meandering through the rain forest on board walks with open view of the pacific. Details of the trail can be obtained from http://www.longbeachmaps.com/wildtrail.html.