Heckman Pass to Bella Coola - Part 3

  Tweedsmuir Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada
Monday, August 20, 2007

Part 3 of 12

Date of Travel: Sunday, Aug. 12, 2007
Blog Written: Aug. 25, 2007

Heckman Pass to Bella Coola
----------------------------------
Distance: 150 km
Total traveled for the day: 675 km
-----------------------------------
My travels have taken me over a lot of mountain passes.

During many years of bicycle touring I cycled over the likes of 6,500 ft. (1,854 m) Col de Montgenevre linking France and Italy (the pass leads to Sestriere, the site of alpine sports of the recent Turin Winter Olympics); Smuggler's Notch in Vermont at 2162 ft (659 m.) and Rogers Pass in the Canadian Rockies at 1,382 m in BC.

Two summers ago, Barbara and I decided it would be a wonderful experience to drive "La Route des Grandes Alpes" in France as part of our European tour. This high Alps drive from the Savoie, a French department located in the Rhone-Alpes region of the French Alps to the Mediterranean, involves some serious mountain pass driving including the col du Galibier, col du Briançon, col de l'Izoard and col de Vars among others. After about 8 mountain passes we concluded that it was an experience never to be repeated due to the narrowness of the roads, lack of guardrails, hair pin turns, French driving habits and the constant need for super attention to the road. It was hardly relaxing.

All these mountain passes had one thing in common. First it was up and then down.

Heckman Pass (1,524m), or the HILL, as it is known locally, seems all downhill if you are driving from east to west. Built by locals, this road, completed in 1953, is referred to as the "Freedom Highway" out of the Bella Coola Valley.

At the risk of engaging in hyperbole (which I often do), another way of expressing this phenomenon is that at Heckman Pass you are literally falling off the Chilcotin Plateau and descending to sea level at Bella Coola.

We were already warned by signs near Anahim Lake about the fact that 60 km further ahead we would be faced with an 18% decline in the grade of the road and the need to have tire chains at the ready.

Heckman Pass 60km ahead

For the next 60 km over Heckman Pass the paved highway turns to gravel making driving conditions, especially in rainy weather, treacherous.

road has turned to gravel

weather is getting bad

The pass is actually located in beautiful Tweedsmuir Provincial Park which is the largest park of any kind in the province. It is mostly a wilderness park as only Highway 20 slices across a small southern part of the park.

entering the park

the streams

the beuatiful water fall

the hiking

http://www.bcadventure.com/adventure/explore/cariboo/parks/t weeds.htm


In my limited research for blogging, done after a trip, I often learn more about a place than actually being there. Therefore, I am amazed that at 1,524 m, Heckman Pass comes close to the Col de Montgenevre and surpasses Rogers Pass in elevation.

Having driven it, or at least having been a passenger in the back seat, it seemed endless and while it was generally downhill, there were several climbs. After all, a section of the Coast Mountains is located between the Chilcotin Plateau and the fjord (the N. Bentink Arm of the Burke Channel) on which Bella Coola is located.

still optimistic

The end result was that I truly lost the feel for the topography other than the downhill part.

Had we driven this exciting stretch on a sunny day, my perceptions would have been better. Instead it was raining, misty and obscure, which all heightened the feeling of suspense and adventure.

Heckman's Pass

Heckman's Pass

Heckman's Pass

that's the road!

misterious (sic)

16-Heckman's Pass

During this part of the trip, Dianna experienced a near "carnival midway effect" characterized by anxiety and perspiring palms.

All the while, I was in the back seat uttering nonsense about how beautiful the scenery was and how this was an adventure of a life time.

Glenn just did his job and got us through slippery, slick conditions.

Near the lower part of Heckman Pass we stopped at beautiful Tweedsmuir Lodge located in the middle of nowhere. This was like an oasis in the wilderness and reminded me very much of the manicured, orderly beautiful mountain landscape of Switzerland.
http://www.tweedsmuirparklodge.com

Tweedsmuire Lodge

that's one dirty car

What would it be like to vacation in such a place which combines beautiful scenery with rustic chalet accommodations and gourmet food? My problem is I would be bored in about two hours.

Our descent ended in the peaceful, scenic Bella Coola Valley which, at least in Hagensborg, again evoked memories of Switzerland with its neat farms and grazing animals. A lot of the homes had an alpine theme so reminiscent of Europe.


We made a delivery of equipment for one of Barbara's clients on the outskirts of Hagensborg which further reinforced our impression that the Bella Coola Valley is a beautiful place.

The instructions for the delivery point were that we had to cross a "Bailey brigde" find a fish store on the other side. As a result, I now know that a Bailey bridge is a steel bridge designed to be shipped in parts and assembled rapidly.

fish store near Bella Coola

a Bailey bridge

Shortly before 21:00, we arrived in Bella Coola and following the signs to the Bella Coola Motel and Campgrounds we set up our tents in the drizzling rain.

Even having spent very little time in the town, it was obvious that it was not quite as nice as Hagensborg but nevertheless it was located on a spectacular fjord.


The Motel and Campground run by an east European family was modest but clean and we were appreciative of a little kitchen/dining area which allowed Dianna to do her usual magic and produce something tasty to eat under adverse circumstances.

refuge at campground

Roll call next morning would be at 05:30 as we had to be at the marshalling area for the ferry at 06:30 with a departure scheduled for 08:00.

The Discovery Coast Passage from Bella Coola to Port Hardy at the tip of Vancouver Island would be a 13 hour passage.

Discovery Coast Passage

NEW:-see THE BEST PHOTOS from this blog in FULL SCREEN MODE

http://www.slideshare.net/lobo2007

http://www.slideshare.net/lobo2007/best-photos-excursions-bl og-21

How to get to website if hyperlink does not work/

Short Version of Instructions on how to get to the Photos:
In your Browser (Internet Explorer/Mozilla Firefox etc.) do
a SEARCH for:

slideshare AND lobo2007

(or copy and paste the above phrase slideshare AND lobo2007
into the SEARCH line)

click on SlideShare » Lobo2007's Slidespace
- once the site opens
- select the Blog Number you wish to view
- when the small screen appears,
- click on FULL to see the photos at Full Screen
- click to move from one photo to another

- at end of slide show click on BACK to chose another Blog number

Longer Version:
I have been looking for a means of delivering my blogs and photos
in a POWERPOINT full screen mode. A solution seemed possible in a website
called SLIDESHARE.

however, nothing is simple:
Firstly:
SLIDESHARE only allows a maximum size file of 30 MB which
turns out to be 6 or 7 photographs! Hence, I have opted for a "BEST PHOTOS"
alternative.
Secondly:
The hyperlink function from Travelpod to Slideshare does
seem make the link to the photos; therefore, until further notice the following
steps are suggested.
Alternate Method:

- see Short Versions of Instruction above

While I am at it: MAP provided by TRAVELPOD

My map is a mess because TRAVELPOD is not set up for a
situation like EXCURSIONS where a variety of destinations all start from the
same destination (Prince George).

I have not been successful in getting TRAVELPOD to make a
change.