Hyder, Alaska
Once I passed under the large banner ---"Welcome to Hyder, Alaska", there was no doubt I had achieved one of my all-time travel goals of going to Alaska.
Agreed, it was a somewhat of a hollow victory, but it is no different from various other encroachments into new territory I had made over the years. As examples I can cite: traveling from Istanbul along the Bosphorus to Anadolu-Kavagi for the sake of having visited "Asia"; taking a few steps in the high Andes near Mendoza, Argentina, this February, to cross over into Chile; or going to Spain (Catalonia) while visiting Llívia ,a small exclave town surrounded by French territory.
Now it is not that Hyder, Alaska is surrounded by foreign territory, as it is located in the southern part of the Alaska panhandle that reaches deeply along the north-western Pacific.
It is however totally isolated from the rest of Alaska and has the distinction of being Alaska's southern most town accessible by road - albeit from Stewart, BC.
Because of its isolation, it uses Canadian currency, sends its children to schools in Stewart, is on Pacific Time (not Alaska time), and for the most part does its shopping in Stewart. It does have a U.S. Post Office.
I wanted to speak to an Alaska State Trooper for some insights, as my nephew in Detroit has applied to this police force and is going to Anchorage for a job interview in December. However there was no trace of any law enforcement officer that I could find.
It is a small town that could best be described as ram shackled or a town that zoning by-laws forgot. But on the other hand isn't that what Alaska is all about-- freedom from regulations. It is after all a place where possession of a small amount of marijuana is legal.
The apparent chaos of architecture and the small businesses catering to touristy stereotype expectations of Alaska make for an interesting place to visit.
Rife with words such as Tax-Free, Outpost, Gift Shop, Tax Free, Exotic Junk, Alaskan Gold, Trading Post it certainly conveys an image of an outpost of Alaska.
The General Store has an eye-catching sign - "A Town of a Hundred Happy Souls and a few old s----heads" --that sort of sums up Hyder.
The St. Paul's Orthodox Church is a reminder that until Seward's Folly, Alaska was part of Russia. William Seward, secretary of state under both Presidents Lincoln and Johnson was instrumental in the Alaska purchase for a price of $7.6 million in 1867. Due to its apparent worthlessness it was referred to as Seward's Folly
Another sign of interest is "Mile 0 Alaska -Yukon Highway" This road leads north to join the Alaska Highway at Watson Lake in the Yukon.
Not to be missed during spawning season is Fish Creek which flows into the Salmon River just a few miles outside of Hyder.
A half kilometer long protected boardwalk along the creek allows for up-close and personal observation of black and grizzly bears feasting on the salmon which are plentiful here at the right time of year. Also getting in on the action is an abundance of American eagles.
Apparently I had arrived too late in the season to see any part of the spectacle.
Your ultimate destination has got to be another 30 km along a mining road (Granduc Mine) to Salmon Glacier. In my estimation, this is a world-class drive along this rugged, isolated, winding, mountainous road known as Salmon Glacier or Granduc Road which leads from one breath- taking vista to another. As the altitude continues to climb the anticipation mounts for that first glimpse of Salmon Glacier.
When you see it, it is overwhealming in size and grandeur.
When I think of glaciers there are several that come to mind.
The spectacular Athabasca Glacier just across the road from the Columbia Icefields Visitor's Center, in Jasper National Parks, can be accessed by car along the Icefields Parkway. From its base Ice Explorers -bus like vehicles with giant tires-- take tourist right onto the glacier which is a great experience but very expensive.
This summer I visited Glaciar Perito Moreno in Argentina which in my mind is the most stunning because the glacier ends with a giant ice wall that can be closely view from platforms across a stream or even better from a tourist boat which takes you quite close to this giant ice wall which is constantly breaking apart to the accompaniment of tremendous cracking sounds.
The Salmon Glacier, on the other hand, is the only glacier I have viewed from a higher elevation than most of its visible parts. So in fact you are looking down upon the glacier from where you park your car. It is a most impressive sight made more profound by the fact that you are likely to be the only visitor in this isolated area.
I only have one question, how is it that this awe-inspiring sight located on the border between Alaska and British Columbia is practically unknown as a tourist destination?
As the afternoon projected its long shadows, time was once more tugging at my sleeves as I still had a long drive out of the wilderness to Terrace (direction Prince Rupert) where Barbara was waiting for my arrival much later in the evening.
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Hyder Hotels
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