Monday, March 6
After the long night on the bus, a little day time sleep was in order. Then it was time to explore the city of Mendoza.
One is struck by streets which are all lined on both sides with large plantane or sycamore trees providing a total canopy against the heat of the sun. Apparently temperatures of 40 C are not uncommon in the summer (Dec.-Jan-Feb) and the trees provide a natural air conditioning. Fortunately the temperature has been around 30 C the last couple of days.
Mendoza lies in an arid region although it is very close to the Andes Mountains. To support the trees and other vegetation, the city has many kilometers of mostly narrow irrigation canals both covered and mostly uncovered along streets and sidewalks. The water for the canals comes from rivers which are fed by the run-off from the mountains. The water does not flow all the time but only when it is needed according to meteorological conditions. As an outsider, one is aghast at the prospects of personal injury from uncovered irrigation canals about two feet deep running along the sidewalks and streets. One has to constantly keep an eye on where one is walking. Of course, along the major downtown streets the canals are covered. I can´t help but thinking in Canada this situation would sprout a cottage industry of lawyers trying to feed off personal injury cases.
So why am I in Mendoza? When you go to the LCBO (Liquor Control Board of Ontario)--for those not from Ontario, we still have an archaic system where alcoholic beverages are only sold by official provincial government outlets--and if you check the back of a bottle of wine from Argentina you will see the name of Mendoza. It produces most of the country´s wines, in addition to being close to some great sightseeing most of which I will have to pass up due to time.
So in the afternoon I went on a four stop wine tour in Maipu which took us to two bodegas (wine producers)(La Rural),(Vina El Cerno); an olive oil (Olivicola Laur) and a liqueur producer (Sabores Mendocinos).
Degustation took place at each stop along with tours explaining the same things I have heard several times but in the end I really don´t understand the details-- I just enjoy the product. There are many varieties of red wine here but it seems the Malbec is the kingpin of the region.
There is a tendency --lamentablemente--when one is on such a tour to compare with France, California or even Niagara. But--hey this is Argentina and they do it their way and in the end after a couple of degustations and the ambience of talking with other travelers it turns into a great experience.
In the evening I did hit an all-you-can-eat comedor Caro Pepe--El Mejor Patio de Comidas corner of Chile and Las Heras. This one was excellent with a full range of selection to choose from. I tried to be smart in my choices and concentrate on quality highlighted by a great bife chorizo (New Yok Cut). In the end with a half bottle of wine it came to $8 Can.
Strolling along the main commercial street ave. Las Heras which leads to the main street avenida San Martin can, during fiesta time (13:00-16:00), seem like a deserted city but once the shops open the city springs to life with a rhythm and beat which is a joy to behold. These are beautiful late summer days where one has to stop and reflect that the place is Argentina and winter is just letting go its grip in Ottawa, Canada.
Tuesday, Mar. 7
I could not get myself to get up at 06:00 to go for another all-excursion so this became a planning and explore Mendoza day.
At St. Matthew´s High School in Ottawa, in one of the class rooms is a poster which says---"Tren de las Nubes" (Train of the Clouds) and it shows a train going over a giant laderel type bridge. This has fascinated me for a long time and since I had done the two-day Copper Canyon train ride in Mexico two years ago this seemed like a natural in what is beautiful countryside in northern Argentina near the Bolivian border.
Despite the Internet and various travel agents, it took me two hours of running around to get the answer that the train is presently not running due to repairs to the tracks--well better two hours here in Mendoza than 19 hours on a bus.
So my travel plans have changed direction veering more towards Iguazu Falls. So I will be heading to Cordoba.
In the afternoon I discovered Parque General San Martin which is a giant provincial park attached to Mendoza. At the top of a mountain is a large statute called Cerro de la Gloria commemorating San Martin´s Ejecito do los Andes (army of the Andes). General Jose de San Martin, a glorious name throughout Argentina is considered the liberator of the country as he was instrumental in the declaration of independence on July 9, 1816. It was a beautiful scene on a sunny afternoon particularly with the condors circling over the statute.
Wednesday, March 8
I bit the bullet and signed up for the Alta Montagña Excursion despite my concerns about altitude sickness.
I really didn´t know what to expect (lack of homework) but I was assured by the travel agent that the excursion went as high as 2,500 meters which I read in my guide book in the medical section was no problem.
So what this excursion is in fact, is a drive along Ruta 60 which goes through a mountain pass and on to Santiago de Chile. Our excursion went to the pass and the highest point. I could not believe when the guide on the excursion started to explain that we were going above 4,000 meters. Considering the problems I had in Bolivia five years ago, I was concerned, but kept my calm during the 120 km trip.
After passing through Upallata and getting into more and more spectacular mountain scenery, we stopped at what was for me a most unexpected spectacular natural wonder where a sign says: Puente del Inca-Obra Arquitectonica Natural--Paso Obligado del Inca. It is a natural bridge in the most spectacular orange, yellow and brown colours spanning the Rio de las Cuevas. Under it are the ruins of a resort destroyed over the years. In this case a picture is worth -----.
One of the reasons I went on this spectacular mountain route was to get a closer look at Cerro Aconcagua, America´s highest peak at 6,987 meters. Our view of the mountain was at the Mirador Aconcagua at about 2,700 meters and the majesty of the mountain did not disappoint. According to the guide it takes about 10-15 days to climb the mountain, apparently 6,700 tried last year and about 30% succeeded.
The final destination was the Christo Redentor de los Andes Historico Monument at the highest point that one can go in this crossing point between Chile and Argentina. Briefly I even went into Chile as the cold wind was blowing in the high mountains. The 3600 kg, 12 meter high monument was placed there to commemorate a border accord between Chile and Argentina. The views here are literally breath taking---
Bottom line however, I did not get altitude sickness. So I ask myself, what were the heights in Bolivia which prompted that reaction?
This evening at 23:00, in a couple of hours, I am leaving on Andesmar Bus lines for a nine hour overnight ride to Cordoba.
It was an unforgettable, spectacular day in the Andes mountain.
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