Peru and Machu Picchu
Trip Start
Jan 16, 2007
1
22
42
Trip End
May 18, 2007
Lima,
Chile
Monday, April 2, 2007
Sunday 25th March - We all got up early today to see Ian off on his trip to see Machu Picchu . As he will be away from the ship for two nights, three days he had to pack a bag, easy, he wont need much so a rucksack sufficed. His fellow travellers thought differently, with some taking very large suitcases! Not quite sure if they will get them on the small plane? When we arrived at the dock there were many coaches lined up waiting to take people on trips, including Ian's. The buses were very smart and modern, TV's, toilets etc, except for one which looked marginally better than 'Stubby' the campervan. Josh joked ' I bet Dad gets that one' and guess what he did!! To service the ship coaches had made a four hour trip to get here, as there are no coaches to be found in San Martin or Pisco's surrounding area.
After breakfast Liz and Josh got a shuttle bus to Pisco, having asked the Pursers desk if it was a safe place to visit. The journey was through the desert which looked very moon like. Absolutely nothing but sand and rocks for 45 mins, we played I spy to pass the time but everything started with 'S'!,oh and we saw pelicans on the beach, hundreds of them. Along the way we watched many fishermen standing in the sea throwing their nets by hand. Odd to think the sea is teaming with life right on the edge of the barren desert. Finally reaching the outskirts of the town we saw just how terrible some peoples living conditions are. It was truly a very humbling experience and one Josh was made to witness and take notice of! On arrival in Pisco town centre a local tour guide got on our bus. He then proceeded to tell us that Pisco was a very poor town (as if we hadn't noticed). Instead of telling us of the sights to see he pointed out the policemen who were placed on each corner of the square and told us not to venture too far past them and certainly don't take a taxi. We only ventured a little way to try and find the internet, which was closed (Sunday) If it had been open it would have been the cheapest yet, 5p an hour!! There really was nothing to see so we decided to go back to the ship. Just before we got on a very poor man approached us selling his paintings. We bought one of some Peruvian women for $10. Unlike lots of fellow travellers I just couldn't even contemplate giving this man less than he had asked for; compared to these people we are all lottery winners! Needless to say he was a very happy man, we were happy too, an original painting and the knowledge that this man will live off his $10 for some time. How people can haggle over a few dollars when they have so much already is beyond me. Well my conscience was pricked , these Pisco people live in horrible conditions.
After that we made our way to the ship, we felt guilty to be getting on this luxury ship after where we had been.
26th March - Next day we docked at Lima, Peru (yes Paddington bears home town) Josh and Liz took a trip to visit a museum housing a private collection of artefacts from Peru's numerous civililizations. Inca's come to mind when you think of Peru but actually they were relatively recent inhabitants and ones that didn't stay long. In the museum we saw lots of pottery, silver and gold, as well as textiles. All of which had been plundered from many many tombs around Peru. The gold and silver jewellery was lovely and some of the techniques used to produce these pieces are nearly impossible to reproduce today, they were really specialized craftsmen and when you think the pieces were made 3000 years ago it's mind-boggling. We also saw some necklaces made of shells, which were worn by the nobility only. These necklaces being prized possessions and worth more to them than gold! The special shells were very rare, they came from Ecuador and could only be harvested by diving down 60feet or more to get them, another amazing task 3000 years ago!
In Peru the language is Spanish but up in the hills an Inca language is still spoken. The Spanish influence is one that made an impact on many of the Peruvian ways. Celebrations merged and adapted as did religions. Apparently the Spanish men came to Peru single and 'married' the Peruvian women, therefore integrating instantly. Unlike the British who came with their wives and families and kept themselves to themselves. It is now difficult to find a true Peruvian family in Lima today as they are made up of so many other nationalities. It's something that our guide told us they are proud of!
I asked the question as to why so many houses and buildings are left unfinished, many without roofs. The answer was that if they finish them then they immediately have to start paying tax. People tell the authorities they are 'In construction' so evading paying tax, with no intention of finishing ever! Great system eh! But then it never rains here so who needs a roof anyway!
At the local souvenirs market the tour group went to spend spend spend. We on the other hand were fed up seeing so much brightly coloured knitwear and silver, so went off to track down a local grocery shop selling Inca Cola. We managed to purchase a bottle. No English or Spanish spoken by either side just lots of pointing at things. The shop keeper and Peruvian customers were lovely to Josh. He really stands out from the crowd here, blond hair and blue eyes not being the norm! Inca Cola is Peru's favourite soft drink, they love it, it's even bigger than Coca-Cola. This being the case Coca-Cola bought out the company who make Inca Cola. They intend to start selling it in the rest of the world under the name of 'Gold Cola'. It's yellow in colour and tastes very different to coke. It's a herb based concoction which is very sweet indeed, but we would recommend it. Watch out for it, you heard it hear first. Only wish they would keep the Inca Cola name.
We returned to the ship in time for lunch and proceeded to watch pelicans flying all around and spotted three seals/sealions swimming around the boat, not a bad way to spend your lunch eh. Ian is in our thoughts a lot, we are wondering if he is having a great time, he called the night before to tell us he was suffering a migrane, probably bought on by the altitude he had climbed to, 13,000feet! It will be such a relief to see him get safely back on board.
I know that what I have seen of Peru is nothing compared to what Ian must have seen but I would love to come back here and experience more. Sailing up the coast has been great but you don't get a chance to go far inland every day, but it was the safest option with Josh being so young.
Machu Picchu Trip from Ian
Well how lucky am I??!! This was an amazing venture, well organised by the ship. We set off as Liz has said early in the morning, transferring by coach to a nearby military airfield - the only one in the area - where they had negotiated to bring in chartered aircraft for the flight to Cuzco. This flight was superb - you come in between mountain ranges and make a sharp turn to land in Cuzco which lies in a plateau in the valley with verdant hills/mountains all around. After transfer to a hotel we were taken on a tour of Cuzco - an ancient Peruvian city where one civilisation has imposed itself upon each previous one, finally being the Spanish in the 1500's driving the Inca's out and destroying most of their buildings and artefacts. The major historic buildings therefore are predominantly Spanish with occasional remains of the Inca civilisation here and there. We were however able to see an Incan settlement high above the city which was used by the Inca's as a vantage point to plan the city's development.
I ended the day with a horrible migraine which was probably a result of altitude sickness which affects about 50% of visitors, so went to bed hoping to feel better for the next day's trip to Machu Picchu.
Up early and still with a headache but not so bad - good breakfast and off we head to get the train. The train journey lasts 3 hours and is surely one of the great train journeys in the world. It twists and turns through magnificent mountain ranges and follows an ever enlargening river which will eventually feed in to The Amazon. At some times the mountains are some way from the track, at others they close in and you have vertical faces alongside the track - it is 3 hours when you struggle not to be looking at the scenery. Along the way you see people on The Inca Trail which looks a superb way to make this trip. During the trip we have dropped by about 4000 ft and all those who have suffered headaches etc. are beginning to feel better.
We arrive at the station for MP and then transfer to a bus to climb the mountain - this is an extraordinary journey zigzagging the mountain as the town below gets further away - it takes about 25 minutes to get up the mountain on a very rough track on which only the buses are allowed to travel. We stopped for lunch, tantalising close to MP but in need of a break, then off we go to the national park of Machu Picchu which is amongst the last 21 things on earth competing for the New 7 Wonders of the World. It is quite simply everything you might imagine - breathtaking as it comes into sight and continues so throughout the tour of the site. It was raining when we got there and you have to be very careful walking on the stones - one person slipped and was hurt sufficiently to be stretchered out - but every moment and effort is worthwhile. A few of us finally left the tour guide to go to the top for the best known photo opportunity - there must be millions of photo's around the world all much the same!
We made our way back to the bus for the return journey - on the way down you get a real perspective of how dodgy this bus trip actually is! Back on to the train and everyone is full of talk about the trip. Along the way the train staff dress up and present us with some dancing and a fashion show in the carriage - excellent entertainment and great fun on our return journey. We arrive back at the hotel at 9pm and given that we have to be up by 4.30 the next morning most retire to bed, with fresh headaches!
Up early the next morning - breakfast and headache tablets for most - some people clearly feeling quite bad - then off on coaches for a flight to Lima. Another fine flight although rather chaotic at the airport, and we arrive in Lima to be met by tour guides for a quick visit to the capital. We are also met by many police - in cars, on motorcycles, horses, with dogs etc. - a bit disconcerting. Our tour bus is then given a police escort into the city! That should make it clear we are tourists! The Lima tour is excellent - a superb tour guide - but it's fairly quick and crammed with information - almost overload point now. There is a gathering crowd at the Presidential Palace which is apparently there because the Peruvian football team is about to be received by the President, having qualified for, I think, The America's Cup in 2008, equivalent of our European Championship.
We head back to the ship and, just like Liz's notes above, we see the great poverty that is widespread in Peru. All in all an amazing trip which I would recommend anyone to do if they have the inclination.
