NZ - South Island
Trip Start
Jan 16, 2007
1
16
42
Trip End
May 18, 2007
Wanaka,
New Zealand
Tuesday, March 13, 2007
26th Feb - flew in to Christchurch very late and phoned for transfer to the motel. It was late and everyone was tired and it was very cold - a great shock after Oz! The motel consisted of a number of chalets and each one had a mixture of furniture and fittings ranging in period from the 1940's to the 1980's - apparently typical of what we are likely to find.
Day 1 - took the bus into Christchurch central. A much warmer day and it was just like being in England - deliberately we think a very English feel to the whole place. We rode the city tram and then went to book up a whale watching trip and another campervan hire for the duration of our trip.
Day 2 - After another trip into the centre we were finally able to pick up the campervan at about 5.00 in the evening. She has been nicknamed 'Stubby' due to her appearance - short and stubby and, as we have learnt subsequently, too small to swing the proverbial cat in, and frustrating all of us. We were late setting off to Kaikoura further north along the east coast, and the home of year round whale watching. After a long and very winding road we arrived late, tired and cold again.
Day 3 - Woke up with warm sunshine and all seemed good with the world, plus this was the day for our whale watching trip! We got up and out, bought breakfast and went off to check in for the whale watching boat ride only to find warnings of big swells and high probability of sea sickness - major disappointment as none of us felt like feeding the whales rather than watching them! Reluctantly we cancelled and arranged for the next day. We then sat down on the beach watching the comings and goings including helicopters zooming in and out. The boys tentatively suggested that we could check out the pricing etc.. knowing Liz's horror of flying in any form! Having done this, and returned with the pilot's description of how good it was, smooth, not like a plane, blah blah.. the case was put to Liz along the usual lines - once in a lifetime, may never have another chance etc.. when suddenly Liz said right, let's do it!! Ian and Josh sprang to their feet in record time and off we went to book it up, with only an hours' wait before the off. Well, what an experience - the pilot's know where spottings have been made, the precise timings and the likely time that a whale will resurface. There had been 3 male sperm whales spotted that day and we were off to try and find one that had dived approx. 40 mins earlier - typically they resurface 45-50 minutes later to re-oxygenate their blood, a process that takes about 5-7 mins before they dive again. We flew out, smoothly, not like a plane, everyone happy, about 11 kms to the area and then started circling and watching. After a couple of minutes you start to think maybe it's not going to be your day but then suddenly there he was, and the view from a helicopter is superb. We continued to circle getting a little lower each time watching the process of the whale blowing out and taking in new oxygen. Just as described it lasted for about 6 minutes and then you begin to see a slight movement of the tail fin - an indication that he is about to dive - and then in one magnificently elegant movement he dives and the tail is lifted right out of the sea and then disappears - absolutely stunning! We then flew back towards land, along the way hovering over schools of dolphin. Our pilot took us inland and up a high mountain and landed on a piece of land which actually didn't look big enough. Liz didn't realise at the time but he directed her around the front of the helicopter simply because there was no way you could have walked around the back without tumbling down the mountain. The views were superb and the camera worked overtime. It was time to head back and the takeoff from this high point was pretty amazing - you just seem to turn away and fall off the edge, albeit totally under control. We flew back out over the sea and then turned back in to the helipad which was almost on the beach. We all agreed what a fantastic experience it was - Ian now wondering if it's too late to get a pilot's licence!
We wandered back after cancelling the next day's boat trip reliving the experience.
Day 4 - We departed Kaikoura but first of all went out to the headland where we had been told you could see seals just lounging around - could that be true? Yes it was and further photo's were required. It was a lovely rocky area with rockpools being constantly swished by the tide whilst seals lay posing in the sun - we just felt remarkably lucky to be there. As we drove off we realised that it would have been easy to spend much more time just in this one spot, but our plan was to move on gradually to see our good friends who live in Wanaka in the centre of the South Island. We drove quite solidly for several hours to reach Timaru, much further down the east coast, with another of the campsites with good facilities both for kids and adults, meaning that we didn't have to spend too much time in the pokey van!
Day 5 - We moved on inland heading towards Twizel via two magnificent lakes - Tekapo and Pukaki. At the first we pulled in to the viewing area and parked up. We started chatting to some fellow travellers who turned out to be from Foxton and Ely, and one of the guys ran a business in Cambridge! We stared out over the lake chatting for some time and then went our separate ways. Although we heading in the same direction we didn't think it likely that we would meet again - how wrong we were! The second lake - Pukaki - had the most amazing milky blue colour apparently created by the rocks that the water runs over on its' way from the mountains. We moved on to Twizel and felt ok to go further so headed on to Omarama to another campsite. As we walked around the site to check things out in rolled two 'Britz' campers that looked familiar - John, Brian and two Wendys' from Foxton/Ely. After swapping good british insults, which largely seem to go over the heads of kiwis, we cooked up tea and then settled down for the evening.
Day 6 - It was Sunday and we had promised to be in Wanaka by late morning, so after saying goodbye once more, we hit the road. The journey took a bit longer than we had thought and we got into there about midday determined to find Chris and Karenza's house without asking anyone or, worse still, ringing for directions! After driving up and down the road we wanted to no avail, and with the time reaching nearly one o'clock, we relented and asked some locals for help. They sent us back the way we had come from but a bit further along and sure enough there we were, to be greeted by Chris, Karenza, Emily, Grace and the dogs Jack and Sam!! It was brilliant to see old friends for the first time in many years on the other side of the planet. Having travelled extensively C&K have settled in NZ and now have two beautiful girls, Emily aged 3 and Grace 6 months. They purchased a plot in Wanaka and helped in building their lovely home with superb views to the mountains - it really is a fantastic home for the family. We also of course met the dogs, Jack and Sam, as they greeted us enthusiastically as dogs do. For the next couple of days we talked endlessly about anything and everything, just catching up and some reminiscing! We took the dogs and humans out for a walk on Sunday afternoon, down to the river and throwing sticks in for the dogs to swim after, then back for tea and more chat.
Day 7 - Woke up in a proper bed - what a luxury - beds in the camper are awful! After breakfast C&K offered us a day out on Queenstown - a fairly developed and commercialised town which is not without controversy amongst locals, but great for tourists. Well another great day - first a drive over the mountain pass which was spectacular - have we used that word before? Coming down towards Queenstown you look down the valley to the town ahead and below in the distance with lakes stretching away in the distance. We reached the centre and got everything ready to walk through a park and by the lakes up to the Gondola - another cable car experience for Liz! We took us directly up the mountainside with superb views all round. Along the way was a bungy jump platform which looked very scary, especially when someone ran to launch themselves off. At the top there is an excellent café etc.. with outside seating for the views. After a lunch stop it was time to take the ski lift yet higher to check out the Luge; well just like the old days with the lads busting to race one another on the fastest track. The Luge winds it's way down to the bottom of the ski lift and the whole process starts again, and as we bought plenty of tickets, over and over - great fun for all. And by the way, who should be there but the crew from Ely and Foxton - we can't go metting like this! Before going home we stopped off at Arrowtown - an old mining town now geared for tourism - and relaxed with ice cream after such a tough day! Back home Karenza ordered burgers from a local place, including 'Shanias' for the veggies. Why Shania? Well guess what, Shania Twain has recently moved to Wanaka causing much local stir, but you know, that don't impress me much (sorry!!).
Day 8 - It was time to say goodbye after Emily was despatched to the local crèche by bike with Karenza. We were sad to go but had a schedule of trying to get around the west coast before moving on to the North Island. After goodbyes we set off aiming first for Haast - C&K had warned that the lovely weather we had enjoyed in Wanaka wouldn't be true for the west side and to expect trouble from sandflys which just love tourists. As we proceeded the going got progressively worse - sun turned to cloud and then rain, the road got windier and the camper slower - at times down to 15 mph with black smoke pouring out. We got to a point where a single track bridge revealed a lovely waterfall through the slight rain, so we stopped for a photo. In the short time that it took to get out and grab a picture the van was overtaken by the dreaded flies, who held Josh hostage until the meatier adults returned. At this point a frenzied battle took place between two mass murdering humans and what seemed like hundreds of flies intent on biting every bit of flesh available. It was truly horrible and after about 20 mins of mayhem we took stock. Did we really want to be cold, wet and driven mad by these monsters after just having an excellent time in NZ? Whimps maybe, but we decided to cut and run and turn round. From there the journey gets pretty dull as we largely retrace our steps to get to the north of the island in time for the ferry crossing. On this day we headed back via Wanaka and arrived at Omarama in the evening feeling rather defeated but glad to be dry, warm and tending to the bites we had received.
Day 9 - Largely a travelling day, back to Timaru on the east coast, via Waimate.
Day 10 - Another travelling day, back to Kaikoura via Christchurch.
Day 11 - Travelling again but now at last into new territory! Northwards up the coast around the Seaward Kaikoura Ranges through to Blenheim, then inland and west towards Nelson. Along the way many and varied views, lovely countryside and towns such as Havelock. We stopped just beyond Nelson at Richmond, another camper site, and then went on to Rabbit Island for the late afternoon sun. There is a beach stretching as far as you can see in both directions with just a few people around, a beautiful conservation area.
Day 12 - It's Saturday and we've heard that the morning market in the centre of Nelson is a great semi-hippy experience, as if that would be our sort of thing! Indeed it's a bit like a mini Glastonbury so we're very at home. The rest of the day is spent mooching around Nelson and again reflecting how much there is to do and see here, and simply not enough time.
Day 13 - Time to transfer to the North Island so it's up early to get to Picton and get the ferry to Wellington through the Cook Strait - will report once we hit, or should we say arrive, at the North.
