Peru - On the trail of the Incas and guinea pigs

  Lima, Peru
Friday, April 18, 2008

We have left behind the relatively modern  and prosperous countries of Chile and Argentina for the poverty of Peru (we were told that unemployment is over 50%). However, we were about to discover that it is a wonderful country full of ancient history and the influences of the many civilizations that existed here. The people are also a mix of the different cultural and religious influences over the generations.  The difference was obvious as we took a taxi from Lima airport to our hotel in Miraflores, an affluent  suburb of the city. We passed shanty towns and the cars, buses etc. were ancient. The traffic was frightening; definitely the scariest we have come across yet. It made  Santiago, which we had just flown out of, seem sedate.

One 'interesting'/disgusting habit in Peru is putting used toilet paper in bins (often open) beside the loo and not in the bowl. We were soon to realise the reason for this when we had our first of many blocked loos in our deluxe hotel in Lima. A phone call brings a man with large plunger in hand to solve the problem!!! They are obviously used to it.

Several travellers had told us that Lima did not merit much time so we only had 2 nights there  and it was enough to get an overview of the city. We did an organised tour which was excellent and took us to the main city attractions.

Lima Gold

The gold museum was a highlight with beautifully crafted  pieces, some thousands of years old.

Pure Gold

 We also saw catacombs which had open areas full of bones.

Lima Cathedral with catacombs under

They were very dark and creepy. The bones were organised into types; so one area had a big pile of thigh bones in a heap, then skulls and so on. The smaller bones were missing as they apparently got damaged when the bodies were taken for research so only the larger, stronger bones remain.

Lima city square

The main square of the city is beautiful with magnificent buildings from the Spanish Colonial era but we felt we were being watched all the time as there is a strong military presence there; tanks  with soldiers poised with fingers on the triggers of guns pointed at the ready.

The seafood in Lima is excellent and we had a delicious dinner at a seafood restaurant on a pier watching the sunset. The ceviche here is as good as in Chile but we think the Pisco Sours are not as good. Apparently there is rivalry between the 2 countries as to who 'owns' Pisco Sours. Our verdict is Chile.
 
From Lima we flew south to the second biggest city in Peru, Arequipa. We had many reasons for coming here; the beauty and history of the town, the local cuisine (a certain animal dish that David has been seeking features prominently), the proximity to Canyon country and the altitude. We had been advised that the best way to avoid altitude sickness was to gradually ascend and spend a few days at  increasing elevations so that was our plan.

We stayed in a delightful B&B within walking distance of the city. Only problem was blocked loos again!! Plunger man to the rescue.

Santa Catalina Monastery

We explored the city and visited the 16th century Monasterio Santa Catalina which was actually a convent. It is huge and like a city within a city and gives an insight into the life of the cloistered nuns.
This was our first indication of the long history of guinea pigs (locally called cuy and pronounced cooee) as food in Peru. Apparently they had been wild animals but were domesticated and kept for food. In the convent kitchens there were houses for the cuy under the ovens where they would be warm and cosy until killed for human consumption.

Guinea Pig homes in t he convent kitchen

Further investigation revealed that there are local variations in the method of preparing and cooking cuy.

Guinea Pig - Arequipean style

In Arequipa they are split open, flattened and fried whereas in Cusco they are baked whole in an oven.

David's first taste of cuy

David was so excited to finally try cuy and his first taste was Areqipean style at an open air restaurant with local musicians and dancers.

Arequipa menu

A bit touristy but seemed fitting for the occasion. I much preferred the local speciality of Lomo Saltado which is a spicy beef stew. Our nibbles beforehand were huge corn kernels, roasted and salted, very crunchy and delicious.

Huge roasted corn kernels

There are many different  varieties of corn here, including purple, but not as many as the types of potato.
Another amazing place in Arequipa city is the Sanctuaries Andean Museum. Sounds pretty ordinary and even boring but, wow, what a find. On some of our historical tours we had heard that the Incas used human sacrfice to appease their gods and here was proof of it. In 1995 the body of  'Juanita', a beautiful young girl, was discovered on Ampato Volcano.

Ampato Volcano

The body, clothing and 'offerings' left with the body had been preserved under ice and volcanic debris so her perfect condition was such that scientists were able to do detailed research and discover how and when she died and what was her state of health, the type of diet she ate etc. It was also conclusive proof of human sacrifice. 'Juanita' is in the museum and since her discovery more 'sacrificial' bodies have been discovered atop high mountains and volcanoes. Apparently the Incas usually sacrificed animals but in certain circumstances a greater sacrifice was needed to appease the gods as in the case of the force of volcanoes. What an interesting museum.

Our trip to Colca Canyon was a long day, starting at 4am for  the drive to arrive at a famous condor viewing point early enough to have a chance of seeing them. Colca Canyon is the second deepest in the world and the deepest is not the Grand Canyon, as we thought, but another canyon close to Arequipa but rather inacessible. This was a 4 hour drive there and if we had realised we could have stayed locally, in Chivay, overnight which would have been less tiring.

Early morning Ice on ground en route to Colca

Anyway it was spectacular to see the sun rising as we were driven high into the Andes through farms of llamas, alpaca and vicunas.

Alpacas near Arequipa

Shepherds live in small huts in remote locations to tend their herds.

Llama farm

Then agricultural areas with the old terracing built pre-Incan times still in use today.

Pre-Incan terracing

We had a private tour with a driver and also a guide who spoke good English. Our guide was excellent and she had been brought up in the small town near Colca Canyon and had so much interesting local knowledge.

Us with Pre-Incan terracing

We arrived at the canyon and sat at the main viewing point to wait and hope to see condors.

Andean Condor over Colca Canyon

Our luck was in and after about half an hour several condors appeared to ride the thermals and soared right in front of and above us as we sat there gazing into the canyon. They are huge birds (the largest wing span in the world we believe) and so majestic.

Andean Condor over Colca Canyon

We had ben told that high season in this area is June, July and August so were amazed at the number of tour buses in this remote region. We cannot imagine how busy it must be at peak times. 

Local market sellers in emroidered hats

The local people in this area dress very colourfully and the design of the women's hats speak volumes. One can tell which village a woman is from and her marital status also. There were market stalls with colourful textiles for sale plus lots of knitted and crocheted condors etc.

Colca market

The farmers here use natural 'barbed wire' in the form of cactus plants on the top of their stone walls to keep their animals from straying.

Cacti better than barbed wire

On the way back we swam in the local hot springs which gave us good appetites  for lunch. It was a buffet in a local cafe in Chivay and our guide explained what all the strange-looking dishes were. David, apparently, did not listen carefully enough and ended up eating a fried cows nipple. They looked just like crispy little triangular snacks! Needless to say, I did not try one. The puddings were delicious; creamy rice pudding, delicately flavoured with cinnamon and cloves and also 'flan' which is a local version of creme caramel. We drank fresh passion fruit juice. In contrast to Argentina and Chile, Peru is not known for its wine so we stuck to local fruit juices. 

Arequipa with volcano looming above

So we had a great time in Arequipa and are very pleased that we were able to spend a few days exploring the city and surrounds. No problems with the altitude so fingers crossed as we ascend to the Sacred Valley of the Incas.