Grasshoppers and chocolate pizza

Trip Start Jun 30, 2008
Trip End May 09, 2009

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Flag of Mexico  , Central Mexico and Gulf Coast,
Sunday, November 9, 2008

I came to Oaxaca in 2003, but the modern equivalent seemed nothing like I remembered...I can't have destroyed that many brain cells in the last 5 years surely?! Granted a great deal of the city centre has since been rebuilt due to the bloody demonstrations a couple of years ago when teacher led riots escalated into armed fighting by police and left wing radicals and many of Oaxaca's historic buildings were damaged. All the trees in the centre have also since been uprooted and replanted. Apparently to make it seem more 'native'. Despite the international uproar and deaths associated with one of Mexico's most popular cities in 2006 though, it's now fully recoverd and once more a magnet for scruffy backpackers from around the world- sleeping in a dorm for a whole week meant sharing breathing space with half of Australia (well, it seemed). The lack of comb theme didn't just stop at the tourists though, everywhere you look in Oaxaca there seem to be wild eyed artists and independent musicians, giving the whole place a hippy, laidback feel. This is also a place known for its gastronomic pleasures- the food is delicious, or more specifically, the cheese. Big wheels of mild stringy queso oaxaqueño are proudly displayed in the city markets alongside pigs trotters and fried grasshoppers, and can be consumed on their own (my preferred method), or more maturely, in a oaxacan pizza style creation- Tlayudas, giant toasted tortillas with mole (chocolate chile sauce) and cheese. Mmmmmm.
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