Puerto Natales
Trip Start
Aug 19, 2008
1
13
15
Trip End
Oct 04, 2008
Puerto Natales,
Patagonia,
Chile
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
When we did arrive in Rio Turbio it was a bit of a shock. It is an old mining town and is extremely bleak and uninviting at first appearance. To be fair, it was winter, cold and dark, and so may present a more attractive side in better circumstances. We were very relieved, however, to find that we could get a bus out within a couple of hours. We went into the tourist office to ask about restaurants, and the lady was very helpful, but unsurprised to learn our visit would last a mere matter of hours.
We went to a cafe and had a meal and a drink. I ordered a tea with milk, which turned out to be exactly that: a cup of hot milk and a teabag. I asked for hot water and was told to dunk the teabag in the milk. I thought the waitress was being dense, but it turned out later that that is how they drink tea with milk in those parts. As it was cold and there wasnīt much to do, we spent the rest of our stay in a service station cafe drinking coffee.
When the bus finally left we were just very anxious to arrive in Puerto Natales, having been travelling for well over 24 hours. We crossed the border at Dorotea, and it took forever for everyone to get through customs, but eventually we were all through and in Chile.
We went straight to the guesthouse we stayed at last time, Casa Teresa, and were very happy to find it just the same, and Teresa herself just the same, and we had the same room and Teresa remembered us (or said she did to please us).
We spent the next day, Saturday, preparing for our trip to Torres del Paine. Not for us this time the one-day bus tour. We wanted to spend at least one night in the park, and it turned out to be more practical to spent two there, considering the time taken to get there. So we spent the day gathering information, talking to experienced people, and buying supplies.
The next morning we set off early. Our bus came for us at 7.30. It was a long way into the park, and the bus was very cold, and I started to feel more and more nervous about the prospect of walking so far in the cold and wet.
We set off from the administration centre under a grey and cloudy sky. For the whole of the first day we didnīt see the mountains, but the rain stayed off us for the entire three days, which was very, very lucky, as most people we met got drenched at some point.
The first part of the walk was very flat, and not so interesting because of the mist and cloud. However, we soon warmed up and saw several birds and hares.
We walked for about five hours, and arrived at the refugio where we would spend the night. I couldnīt believe it was the refugio, as I was expecting some sort of shed with mattresses on the floor, but this was a luxurious hostel with fires and a restaurant. We had a dorm to ourselves, as there were only a few people staying there.
It was only when we went to use the campsite kitchen that we realised how unprepared we were. We were carrying much smaller bags than anyone else we met, and it soon became clear why. There was no equipment in the kitchen, not even a pan, and we had no way to cook our stuff. The alternative was a very expensive meal at the restaurant and either binning our food or carrying it all the way round. Luckily we managed to borrow a pan from the restaurant kitchen (against the rules, Iīm sure) and they opened our tin of tuna for us. Also luckily we had our own knife and fork set, and could buy a couple of polystyrene cups for coffee in the morning.
Anyway we managed to eat dinner, and then to warm up by the fire. In the morning we had a very substantial oatmeal breakfast from the borrowed pan, and then set off again.
The walk on the second day was much more enjoyable. We had warmed up to the walking. More importantly, although it started off cloudy, by midday the clouds cleared and we had a fantastic blue sky and got some great photos of the mountains.
We walked for about 2 and a half hours before breaking for lunch, and then continued. Altogether we walked about seven hours on day 2. Some of it was quite tough going, either uphill or downhill through a stream. However, it was a much more fun day than day one.
The second refugio we stopped at was a bit more basic, but also cheaper and less institionalised. We shared a dorm with a couple of Canadians who were doing the trek the other way round, so we were able to swap stories and advice.
On day 3 we had an early start as we had to pick up the minibus at 2.00, and we werenīt sure how long it would take us to get there. The first part was uphill, but after that it was pretty much all down, and gently, so that was an easy walk with more great views. The weather was not so clear as the previous day, but still better than day 1. We saw more birds, lots of small sparrow-y things, and also a small owl sitting at the top of a tree like a big ball of fluff. I only realised it was an owl when I saw its big yellow eyes and head swivelling 180 degrees.
In the end we reached the place to pick up the minibus with a couple of hours to spare, so we had a very expensive, but well-deserved coffee in the hotel there, which was worth the cost for being able to stay in the warmth. We werenīt cold at all on the trek, but it got very cold as soon as you stopped moving.
Anyway, the minibus came at 2.00, and took us to meet our bus back to town at 2.30. The trip back was much quicker and the bus was warmer. Still, we were very glad to get back to a hot shower and a big steak dinner.
I havenīt really done justice to the trek, but the pictures will explain everything better than I can. We really enjoyed it. It is a beautiful place to walk in, and not too challenging in any way. The most amazing thing about it is the way the terrain changes, so that one moment you are walking on an old dried up glacier, all shingley stones, and then you are in deep woodland, and then you are by a lake, and then you are in a meadow, and then scrubland, and then you are up to your ankles in clay, and then you are slithering down a stream... You never get bored of it because you donīt know whatīs coming up next.
The next entry will be from Ushuaia in a couple of days time. Hope all is well at home.
