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Shabby Shacks and on to Eden
Entry 74 of 88 | show all | print this entry |
Sunday November 28th - Day 215
The convoy left on time, Jim, Sharon and the boys in one car, Rene and I in the other. We could tell you where we were going, but then we'd have to kill you. We've been sworn to secrecy by the Castle Hill mafia, who invade the place for 2 weeks every Christmas.
All we'd been told was that Shabby Shacks (made up name) were basic but beautifully located. The standard of accomodation in Australia has been excellent, mainly due to fierce competition for tourist dollars, so to be honest, our first thoughts as we drove into Shabby Shacks and saw the collection of ramshackle buildings was that the place had shut down many moons ago. Had Rene and I stumbled upon the place on our own, whilst looking for somewhere to stay, I'm certain we wouldn't have even driven in. Luckily though, we weren't on our own and we followed Jim to the bottom of the site where our cabins were located and caught our first view of the turquoise sea, through the trees.
I'm not exactly sure how many usable cabins there were, probably no more than ten. Some were under repair, other looked beyond repair. As Jim said, the place has the feel of an old farmyard, with stuff lying about everywhere, mainly reclaimed wood and chunks of tree trunk, so I felt right at home.
Our wooden cabin was basic, tired and worn through, with a 2 foot square of plywood covering a hole in the ceiling. But it had everything we needed, a sink, a fridge, a 2 ring electric hob and a kettle and was better than some places we've stayed at in South East Asia.
The toilet block was close by and despite needing a facelift, the showers were hot and the toilets clean and a haven for insect life.
So why would perfectlysane families choose to spend their annual 2 week Christmas break here in Shabby Shacks, I hear you ask. The answer is simple, location, location, location.
Shabby Shacks sit atop a small gum tree covered peninsula, which divides two beautiful beaches. A two minute stroll has you on either beach, where the sand is soft and gently sloping, allowing child friendly swimming, surfing, snorkelling and fishing.
Good weather always helps and we certainly had that with plenty of sun and a strong hot wind blowing like a hairdryer. It was a tough afternoon on the beach, what with the heat, and finding time to dig a big hole with the boys inbetween swimming, surfing and snorkelling. Wearily we made our way back to the cabins. Jim disappeared to go spearfishing, as you do, Shar lit the wood fired brick barbecue and we discovered another facet of the gem that is Shabby Shacks. Its wildlife.
The trees surrounding the cabins are alive with birdlife and at certain times of the day the crimson Rosellas and King Parrots come down for a feed. Their colours are spectacular and if you keep still and are patient they will land on and feed from the hand. Not coming quite so close are the loud calling Kookaburras, the red earinged wattle birds and the exquisite, elctric blue striped, fairy wren.
At dawn and dusk, kangaroos emerge from the National Park forest that encirlce the site, they don't get fed but do sem to enjoy eating on some of the grassed areas. Rene and I have now seen dozens of kangaroos, but we'll never tire of watching these amazing creatures. They're as free as birds here, and to see them speed off into the woods with minimum effort and maximum hop is magical.
Jim returned with two fish, and a proud, hunter gatherer grin. Barbecued prawns, salmon, and whiting were delicious and even the steaks and snags (aussie for sasauge) looked good and unlike the Moffitt barbecues at home we didn't need duffle coats and hats.
More wood was collected and as darkness kicked in the camp fire was lit. Boys love a bit of flame and none of us could leave it be, poking, prodding and throwing bits on. Girls aren't bothered by the flame bit, but enjoy telling boys to move back, don't get so close or stop poking.
Fireworks are always a great end to a day especially when they're free and organic. A small bucket full of dried seaweed balls, collected of the beach and thrown on the fire went off like a hundred fire crackers.
Expenses: Groceries 209.51, fuel 25.01, snack 13.20, accom 66
Monday November 29th - Day 216
I woke early and listened to the second half of Liverpool v Arsenal on World Service. I only put it on by chance as I was unaware World Service did a Sunday sports programme. The reception ranged from poor to inaudible and kept jumping to some Arabic channel. It was like listening to Norman Collier underwater. Rene was getting increasingly restless (she never actually woke up) with my radio tuning hand dance and repetetive use of our tiny maglite torch to see if I was still tuned to 15.74.
Anyway can you imagine my frustration when deep into injury time the ball was punted forward towards the Arsenal goal, someone headed it, Alan Green in his usual over emphatic way screamed 'Mellor volleys', then Arabic but fading all the time, took over. It was 30 seconds before I knew Mellors volley had gone in and we'd beaten Arsenal with the last kick of the game.
Unable to sleep, I ventured outside, where 3 kangaroos were chomping on the grass. They ignored me as I walked down to the beach, where I nurseda cup of tea and watched a top of the range sunrise. All in all an early but quality way to the start the week.
Rene relishes her no work 'Monday' mornings more than other days but is slightly alarmed that 36 has now become 8. Aaaaagh!
A relaxing alfresco breakfast and exotic bird visit is followed by a morning spent on the other beach (2). A small but perfectly formed crescent of a beach, where the peninsula forms one end and a large flat rock platform makes up the other. At high tide you can swim over the platform, at low tide you can walk on it.
Another glorious day, though not as hot as yesterday. Everyone had a swim, the water is a lovely temperature, cool enough to be refreshing, warm enough to stay in as long as you like.
Overhead a light aircraft of a sea eagle patrolld the sky, and close to the rocks a large overhanging gum tree was filled with sunning cormorants.
It was a struggle to make it up the path at lunchtime, and down onto the beach 1 two hours later.
More swimming, surfing, diging, reading, throwing and sleeping filled the afternoon. The highlight was the struggling fly past of the aforementioned magnificent eagle carrying an unfeasibly large fish.
Birdfeeding, kangaroo watching, barbecueing, firestarting and marshmallow toasting filled our evening, and complete knackeredness meant we filled our sleping bags by 9.30pm. Lightweights.
Expenses: accom 67, beer 17.50
Tuesday November 30th - Day 217
Not a breath of wind in the cloudy sky, and although it was pleasantly warm, it was thankfully nowhere near the 42C forecast.
We walked, and the boys cycled, to the local corner shop for a few provisions, before we drove to a nearby beach, renowned for its dcent surf. I took a different path down to the beach and unfortunately missed the black cockatoo the others saw.
The surf was up and the long beach pretty much deserted. Jim and I wasted no time grabbing a boogie board and getting wet. The waves were really powerful and it was a struggle making our way out to where they were breaking. I caught one, it thrust me forward a little, then swallowed and dumped me in a flash. You just get thrown to the bottom and swirled about like you're briefly in a big washing machine. It wasn't nice, and after retrieving the board and coughing out the water, I had a sit down.
Jim moved to where the waves weer a bit smaller, and I eventually joined him in some boogie board fun. The girls spotted some dolphins playng in the surf and they seemed to be loving the waves.
Jim took the boys and I to look at a cave but high tide meant swimming was the only way in, so we tried a little junior rock climbing instead.
With the sun attempting to break through and no shelter on the beach, we made our way back to Shabby Shacks for lunch. The venue for the afternoons activities was beach 1, where surfing, digging (it was a deep hole by now), throwing and swimming all took place. The gum trees come right down to the edge of the ebach and provide plenty of shade.
Having run out of fish and meat, Jim decided we should go spear fishing. As luck would have it he had one trigger fire spear gun and one hand fired spear. Jim looked like action man, holding his gun in his full wetsuit. He even had a big sheathed knife strapped to his leg, and possibly a little over optimistically, a large neted fish bag. I, on the other hand, looked like action gimp in my armless, legless wetsuit, especially when I put it on back to front.
My metal spear was about 7 foot long with four very sharp, barbed prongs in one end and a srong rubber loop in the other. The idea is to place the rubber loop between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand. Then gripping the spear with the left hand push the spear backwards while forcing the looped right hand as far forward as possible before gripping the spear. Then, extend the right arm, aim and fire, by letting go of the spear. Easy.
Luckily in the hour we were snorkelling we hardly saw an edible fish and the only shot I fired was a practice one into the sand. What we did see though were rays, lots and lots of rays. Some the size of bin lids, one the size of a large kite and one monster as big as a Persian rug that fluttered towards us like a magic carpet, until it got spooked, then in an instant it became a stealth bomber and vanished into the distance.
They had amazing, big, square heads that looked like a ships bridge, and we guessed if we'd actually speared this expanse of moving muscle, it would have been the ride of our lives.
Sheepishly we returned empty bagged to camp, and having failed to provide, the girls took it upon themselves to hunt for food. With the unbearable of no dinner driving them on, they were very successful, returning half an hour later with fish n chips all round.
The really warm evening meant a swim just as darkness fell was compulsory, and the day ended perfectly with a seaweed fight.
Expenses: accom 67, fish n chips 10
Wednesday December 1st - Day 218
Following breakfast and a prolongued parrot feeding session Rene and I took the boys for a walk to shell beach while Jim and Sharon loaded the car ready for off.
Half an hours walk along the coast, shell beach is a small beach full of shells. for seven months, Rene has been deprived the luxury that is ertail therapy and with shoplifting not really an option in S.E.Asia (get caught, lose a hand) she started collecting shells. Pretty, colourful and free, the magpie in her just couldn't resist, she's got bags full of them, and with todays eager beaver helpers she soon had another.
Harry and Hugh are delightful to have around, and an absolute credit to Jim and Sharon. Their knowledge of wildlife is remarkable and infectious: Harry will impart his knowledge thoughtfully when asked, Hugh on the other hand doesn't wait to be asked and shares his with whoevers around, and if he's not quite sure he'll make something up.
The car was loaded by the time we got back, the sun was out and the temperature was somewhere in the low 30s. Apparently Sydney yesterday reached 42C and it didn't drop below 30C throughout the night.
We were all sad to leave Shabby Shacks, Jim and Shar driving back to Sydney, Rene and I heading south to Eden. This was our kind of place, great deserted beaches, clean clear sea, wonderful wildlife and great company, made for a fantastic few days and one of teh highlights of our trip.
The accomodation means only people who love all of the above keep coming back, which in order to preserve the magic of the area has to be a good thing.
Driving to Eden consumed the remainder of our day. Twofold Beach Resort Caravan PArk was empty, bar two manly looking ladies who were camping, so we had no problem booking a cabin for the night.
A 20 yard stroll took us onto Nullica beach where we sat and watched a pair of Pelicans turn pink as the sun set behind us.
Expenses: accom 49.50, fuel 35.10, lunch 5.50, inet 3.60, laundry 6, supermarket 7.10
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