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Esperance to Perth via Kalgoorlie
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Thurs Nov 11th - Day 198
A big helo to all our Grandparents on Rememberance Day.
In WA many of the schools invite WWII veterans in to talk of their experiences, a quality idea, and one that made us think of Eric who would need a wek to tell his amazing war story. There are now only 4 WWI veterans alive in Ausralia.
A large chunk of our day disappeared in clouds of dust as we travelled north 400km on the Gold Highway. The road was busy with colossal thundering road trains and roadkill carcasses as we passed vast salt flats and one horse town such as Grasspatch, Salmon Gums, Norseman and Woodgiemooltha on our way to Kalgoorlie-Boulder.
Kalgoorlie - Boulders heady days of glory began in 1893 when three down on their luck Irishmen, Paddy Hannan, Daniel Shea and Tom Hanagan, stumbled across 100 ounces of gold nuggetts. Some days later Hannan registered a reward claim that stated one of the worlds last great gold rushes.
The area was inundated with many thousands of men, who travelled great distances and lived in extremely harsh conditions. Thousands died of thirst, starvation and drinking contaminated water. Nevertheless stories of fame and fortune continued to spread and within a few years 93 hotels and 8 breweries had been established and the population of the twin towns of Kalgoorlie and Bolder had swelled to 30,000. The world wide influx of diggers into the Goldfield secured the fortunes and future development of WA.
A concentration of gold mines in one area became known as the 'Golden Mile' and is reputedly the richest square mile of gold bearing ore in the wolrd. The Golden Mile is now the massive Super Pit, Australias largest open cut gold mine, and Kalgoorlie Boulder remains one of the most important gold and nickel mining areas in Australia.
Kalgoorlie and Boulder amalgamated in 1989 and is today a sprawling grid of broad tree lined streets, except for the main crossroads which still house many of the original imposing buildings that helps the town retain at least a feel of the wild west it once was. The streets are mighty wide, wide enough to turn a camel train, which apparently was a necesity in early gold towns.
One of Kalgoorlies best known old buildings 'The Palace Hotel', were offering doubles for $60, so we booked a room. Already mid afternoon, so after a quick cuppa we drove 5 minutes to the highly recommended Mining Hall of Fame, to get a real insight into gold mining. But the gates were padlocked and noone was around.
Distraught at not being able to go underground in a mine, or have a go at panning, Rene consoled me with a visit to the Super Pit lookout, which looks out over what is basically a big hole. At 3km long, 1.2km wide and 260m deep its one hell of a hole and set to eventually reach over 500m deep.
Dusk crept up on us like an injun and we made our way to the top of the Mount Charlotte reservoir and watched the sun slowly drop behind the unrelentingly flat red landscape that is the Southern Outback.
Kalgoorlie is renowned for its skimpies and prossies. The skimpies are lingerie wearing barmaids and prossies relieve pressure for cash. Luckily the barmaid at the Palace had thought better of skimping with her clothing, so we drove down Hay Street to sneak a look at some working gals. They operate out front of a row of small concrete huts with pink corrugated doors and neon lights. Its a surreal sight, and the one lady on duty was no Julia Roberts (Pretty Woman), in fact it was going to need to fall considerably darker before money, or anything else, crossed her palm this evening.
Further along Hay Street, clients with more money and less desperation can make an evening of it at one of the upmarket brothels who offer themed rooms and scented candles. Lovely.
Expenses (A$2.5/pound): Accom 60, fuel 43, food 17.10, musuem 10
Friday Nov 12th - Day 199
We knew we were definitely in the wild west when a couple of those balls of cowboy film grass blew across the road as we left the Goldtown behind and took the Eastern Highway to Perth.
The hours and miles disappeared in a red dust cloud along with towns like Ghooli, Bruce Rock, Burracoppin and Doodlakuia.
With the day virtually gone and Rene's driving gloves threadbare we booked into a motel on the outskirts of Perth.
Expenses: Acom 82, fuel 40.25, inet 8, smarket 16.40, wine and crisps 10.20
Saturday Nov 13th - Day 200
In two weeks, Rene drove nearly 4000km in the trust little Toyota and not a mark on her or the car. Even more amazingly we didn't have any major fallouts. We were both prone to the odd Elton tantrum, but nothing a firm **** off couldn't halt.
A casual day in Perth, catching up with catchy up stuff, before we shuttle bussed it to the airport for our 11.35pm flight to Melbourne.
South West Western Australia is a beautiful, isolated, laid back part of the world and a real contrast to the tourist horded highway that is the east coast. We didn't however allow any where near enough time, so we may well have to return one day.
Expenses: Phone 2.95, left luggage 10, inet 18.70, lunch 19.50, fuel 4, bus 6, snacks 8.10, Lonely Planet 35.90, book 3.30
Where I stayed:
The Palace Hotel
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