Ko Pha Ngan
Trip Start
Apr 30, 2004
1
20
88
Trip End
Jan 28, 2005
Ko Pha Ngan,
Thailand
Wednesday, July 14, 2004
Woken at 12.30am by noise in aisle. We're in a 2nd class slepper, the seats convert into bunks, Rene's on top and I'm below, curtains pulled across the bunks separate you from the aisle. It's like the scene on the train in 'Some Like it Hot'.
The American bloke in the bunk opposite is yelling at a young English bloke, whose drunk, because he caught him opening his rucksack, the English lad is claiming he was looking for his cigarettes, he's very drunk. Once I come too, I realise my rucksack is missing, it was tied to my bed but it's gone. I eventually find it at the other end of the carriage, I bring it back and empty it. It's been rifled through but nothing appears to be missing. Whoever took it was looking for money which we always keep, along with our passports, in our our money belts. They weren't interested in wash bags and dirty clothes. Things get a bit heated between the American and English but I'm sure it wasn't him who silently undid my bag and rifled it, he can barely stand up or talk. I eventually get back to sleep with my backpack as an uncomfortable pillow.
We arrive at Surat Thani at about 7am, we buy a bus/ferry ticket to Ko Pha Ngan and board the ferry at Don Sak at 9.30am. It's a 3 1/2 hour boat trip to Thang Sala on Kp Pha Ngan and on board we meet Or, who is trying to sell accomodation at her sisters resort. She has a wonderful smile and her sister appears to have lovely bungalows, so we book a 250B / night room. We also get a free taxi ride.
The Haad Son Bungalows brochure showed nice accomodation, good pool, a restaurant, lounging areas, its own beach and snorkelling etc. It sounded good. When we arrived aa we could say was 'wow'. It was stunning. For 250B a night (4 pound) we had a wooden en-suite bungalow, overlooking the white snad beach, surrounded by bushes and flowers, with a verrandah and hammock. The restaurant, bars and lounging areas were great and the pool was lovely. The bungalows are spread out on an elevated landscaped slope. They range in price from 250 - 1500 Baht per night.
The rest of the day was spent swimming, lounging and relaxing.
Expenses: Accom 250B, Food 928B (We lost each days food costs so divided up the final sum).
Day 62 - Wed 30th June
More moped madness. A leisurely day spent exploring Jo Pha Ngan on a Honda dream. We visit beaches and waterfalls (there's been no rain for a long time so the waterfalls were just rocks). The roads are OK, but in the South of the island on the way to HatRin they are so steep that with 2 on the moped, we barely make it to the top. At one point Rene spotted a snake slithering across the road, she was startled but we sped off in the other direction and she was fine.
It's low season on the island which means the sea water level is low. By about 4pm the tide has come in sufficiently to have a swim but it's very shallow. About 30m off the beach it turns to coral then 50m after that there's a big drop off. If you stood up just before the drop off the water would be only waist high. Swimming in warm bath water temperature seas is bizarre. At home it's so cold if you jump in it sucks the air out of you and within minutes your lips are turning blue. Only you skin shrivelling like a raisin forces you out of the water here, then you just stand and get air dried. So a swim on the seas, is followed by a lie in a hammock, a swim in the pool, a lounge in the bar, a meal, more lounging and hammocking. ZZZZzzzzzzzzz.
Expenses: Bike 150B, snacks 81B, accom 250B, food 928B
Day 63 - 1st July
Ko Pha Ngan has been steadily filling up all week, everyone trying to get here for tonights Full Moon Party. It's basically 10,000 people on a beach, getting drunk or stoned listening to Dance Music. Rene and I have decided to be ironic and be the only people on Ko Pha Ngan not to bother. We spend a lazy day by the pool atc., etc., etc., as we'll be up all night breaking into all the empty bungalows.
Expenses: sun cream + water 470B, Accom 250B, food 928B
Day 62 - Fri 2nd July
Sleeping is not my strong point so I'm up early and out for a walk. Just round the headland is another beach, which is easy to get to over the rocks. It's long and deserted early in the morning. The rocks on the headland jut out into the sea, climbing on them I disturb a 3ft long Monitor Lizard, I jump a mile and he jumps into the sea, he was the colour of a brown trout. I also see a white bellied Fish Eagle and several Eagrets.
This morning and yesterday morning Rene was also up early and out jogging on the long beach, she did 3 lengths which was 3 more than I did. She returned with a head like a beetroot, even at 8am it's very warm.
It's the rainy season at the moment but so fat it only rains when it's dark, the rest of the time its generally sunny and windy. We have a room with a fan but at night here with the breeze we don't use the fan. Paying for air con is a waste of money.
A quiet day round the pool, reading, getting too hot and the nswimminh, it's exhausting and we're not sure we can take more than a couple of months of this.
Expenses: Accom 250 B Food 928B
Day 63 - Sat 3rd July
Here's how 2 work shy fops on full fop mode spent their day:
8am: Rene goes running / I walk and play with Grover, the resort mongrel
9am: Breakfast on sun terrace - scrambled eggs on toas - fruit platter - Liptons tea with milk
10.30am: Pool - sunbathe, read, swim etc
1pm: Lunch - Large sandwich - fries - ice cold beer
2pm: Bungalow hammock - read and snooze
4pm: Beach - swim and walk
5pm: Bungalow - tot of whisky (own supply) and ritz crackers
6pm: Pool - quick swim
6.30pm: Bungalow - watch sunset from hammock
7.30pm: Bar / Lounge area (huge padded cushions that you actually lie on) for cocktails
8.30pm: Lovely Thai Green Curry and ice cold beer while watching Kill Bill 2.
We worked hard at being work shy today, it was my birthday.
Expenses: snacks 110B, Accom 250B, Food 928B
Day 64 - Sun 4th July
Our final day on Kho Pha Ngan was only different by the walk we took in the afternoon. We headed in the opposite direction to Long Beach, eventually finding a collection of rocks that jutted right out into the sea. The surrounding water was clear and deep and perfect for diving in and swimming. It would have been nice to have done some snorkelling while we were here but it's been too windy and I'm sure we'll find other places.
So after 6 days at the beautiful, friendly and relaxing Haad Son Bungalows we're heading to Khao Sok Nationa Park
Expenses: Accom 250B, Food 928B, Water 15B
