Mekong Delta
Trip Start
Apr 30, 2004
1
16
88
Trip End
Jan 28, 2005
Pnom Penh,
Cambodia
Saturday, June 19, 2004
Our mini bus leaves Saigon at 7.45 bursting at the seams. We are heading for the Mekong Delta, Vietnams richest countryside with half under cultivation and producing enough rice to feed the entire country and still leave a sizeable surplus. At the heart of the delta lies the Mekong River, one of the world's longest rivers, which originates in the Tibetan plateau and flows through China, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam on its way to the South China Sea.
After a short lunch stop we finally reach the river and our boat at about 3pm. We then have 4 fascinating hours, criusing down the river en route to Chau Doc. We sit on the roof of the boat to maximise our view of life on the river and its banks. Floating villages selling fruit, veg and fish, floating petrol stations and ferries carrying everthing from people to bikes to cattle cross from one side to the other
Mekong Delta 1
. Everybody who spies our tour boat filled with Westerners shouts and waves and Lee says I look like Queeny regally waving at all we pass.Life on the riverbank was equally intriguing. By 5/6pm the working day was drawing to a close and many villagers were washing away the days grime by bathing in the muddy Mekong waters. The women remained fully clothed, the men practically naked and the children totally naked as they shampooed hair and bodies. Others were cleaning their teeth and one particular woman was having a poo off a cleverley constructed seat with a hole in that hung over the edge of her boat. My own particular highlight, a young man who appeared oblivious to our passing boat, kindly lobbed his meat and 2 veg out over the top of his shorts in a school boy styley. Most entertaining.
We arrived in Chau Doc at about 7pm and were herded onto trailers attached to motorbikes. The person sat at the front (there were 10 people in the trailer) periodically passed the driver water for the engine and the rest of us were treated to a white knuckle ride to our accomodation for the night. Another early strat (it's worse than being at work) meant dinner and then bed.
Expenses: Breakfast 6000 lunch 30,000 water 5,000 dinner 90,000
Mekong Delta 10
.Wed 16 Jun - Day 48
8am and we're back on the Mekong. In a small wooden boat with an outboard we apy a flying visit to a floating fish farm and spend an hour in a Cham minority village, where the men don't work and bigamy is compulsory. Unfortunately the village already had an idiot so I had to leave with the others.
After transferring to a larger boat our last 2 hours in Vietnam drift past peacefully as we approach the border with Cambodia.
Vietnam is a country made famous by war and it still plays a part in any visit. But despite its ugly history it's a beautiful place to spend some time. The people are warm and friendly, the scenety is spectacular and diverse and we have seen more shades of green than we ever knew existed. Add to this the ability to live like a king on a paupers pay and its hard to resist. So don't. (Todays travelogue entry is sponsored by Vietnam tourism).
No problems at the border and despite a 1 hour onsoon downpour the boat arrived safely at Neak Luong where we transfer to a clapped out looking bus to drive the 50 minutes to Pnom Penh
Mekong Delta 11
. 1 hour 45 ass numbing minutes later we arrive in Pnom Penh.Cambodia has the reputation of having the worst roads in Asia, quite a feat, but judging by this first journey, fully justified.
The bus drops us in a small back packer area near Beung Lak Lake where we eventually find a room. It's been raining and its muddy. There's no hot water in this area so a quick cold shower removes the grime, some of it anyway, then we're off on the daily hunt for the best cheap food and bear we can find.
Expenses: Breakfast 29,000 Lunch $1 Bananas 2,000 Dinner $12.50 Water $0.50
