Phnom Penh - Capital of Cambodia

Trip Start Nov 21, 2007
1
78
158
Trip End Oct 01, 2008


Loading Map
Map your own trip!
Map Options
Show trip route
Hide lines
shadow
Where I stayed
Indochine 2

Flag of Cambodia  , Phnom Penh,
Monday, May 5, 2008

The capital of Cambodia or Kampuchea was a definite change from Vietnam.  We were back in the world of Buddhas, monks and hard economic times for the locals. It is estimated that 1/3 of the population lives on less than 1 USD a day.  Poverty and economic struggle is everywhere you go from children selling books to tuk-tuk drivers begging for you to ride a block.  We will warn you now....if you don't know the historical struggle of Cambodia, it can be a bit hard to swallow.  Basically, the country was destroyed by its own people from 1975-1979.  The Khmer Rouge took over Phnom Penh and forced all the people into the countryside as part of a radial social restructuring program to create an "equal society."  This is why the majority of the population, over 50%, is under the age of 18.  You might have heard of a movie called "The Killing Fields" which discusses the horrible destruction of Cambodia's people.
 
We visited the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, also known as S-21, which was a school turned prison WHAT happened to the face
WHAT happened to the face
. Our local guide did a great job of explaining the horrible circumstances the prisoners had to exist in.  They could not even sleep without asking permission.  They tortured them to get names of other citizens they wanted to extinguish, typically the well educated, or they would kill them but death never came quickly.  The Khmer soldiers always drug death out as long as possible. Many prisoners would attempt suicide by jumping off the 2nd and 3rd stories.  However, the soldiers put up barbed wire coverings to ensure they would not be successful because they enjoyed the killing process.  Disgusting...and horrible, but it happened.  The soldiers were boys too. Each year they would kill one group and recruit replacements because the Khmer leaders did not want anyone to know too much.  What a disturbing thought process. 
 
Then, we headed to the actual Killing Fields in the country.  There were many disturbing things to face.  Clothing remnants were still showing through the footpaths as well as bones.  Yes, they do clean them up but the rains continue to surface more and more.  The memorial for the victims is a very honorable pagoda with skulls of 1000 victims.  While this is terrible in its own way, you will also notice that some skulls have large wholes where they were broken while being beat to death.  The Khmer soldiers did not want to "waste" ammunition on the victims so most of them were beaten to death one small braid left
one small braid left
.  UGH!  The actual area where the terrible actions took place is beautifully filled with trees and greenery, but you can't see the beauty because of the emotional impression stamped in your thoughts.
 
Finally, our guide was a prisoner during this awful time.  He was 6 when it started and 9 when it ended....so amazing.  One part of his story that really touched Jana.  He explained that his current neighbor was a Khmer Rouge soldier.  He said when he found out he was angry to the point of wanting to kill him.  However, he knew that if he did, his family would suffer (he has 3 kids but Dean said he supports many others in his family too) for his revengeful act.  Can you imagine living in that situation?  Can you imagine being filled with rage and anger...yet, turning your cheek?  This is what many of the people in Cambodia have to live with everyday because there are still people from the old Khmer Rouge throughout the country, and even involved in the government!  The recentness of this violence was tough to swallow.
 
Layton and many others from our group went out to a shooting range.  This was where you could shoot a variety of weapons like AK-47, M-16, Uzi, Shotgun, Handgun, Tommy Gun, M-60 Machine Guns, and even throw an actual grenade for $40!  Layton ended up wanting to be a part of the mafia and shot the Tommy Gun minivan carrying a motorbik
minivan carrying a motorbik
.  While this is entertaining and a unique experience, it is a bit disturbing, but that is part of traveling in a 3rd world country!  We split efforts and Jana visited the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda which was not too exciting.  Then, we went to support a few NGO's with eating and shopping.
 
You will see a few pictures at the market.  If you look really closely, you will see crickets and baby chicks.  Yes, when the Khmer were ruling, they rationed food which was not enough to sustain life.  So, people learned to eat crickets, spiders, tarantulas and other odd things.  Layton tried a cricket and actually said it tasted pretty good.   We saw lots of cricket traps too made out of plastic, lamps and a puddle of water, Cambodia actually exports their crickets! Another delicacy is an egg with a partially developed embryo!  Yikes...that is what the family having a picnic was eating.  They were more than willing to share but we were not keen on the idea. 
 
We also had two birthdays while in Phnom Penh.  We celebrated with Paul at Romdeng which is a non-profit training restaurant for former street youth.  The food was wonderful!  We shared a pork and pumpkin spring roll appetizer which was probably Jana's favorite food on the trip.  Then, we celebrated Ash's birthday at Veiyo Tonle (which had great pizzas!)  The restaurant supports a local orphanage.  As a special treat, the orphans perform traditional dances which we were fortunate enough to see.  WHAT A SHOW!  We don't know who had bigger smiles the children or the big kids (us!) 

Post your own travel photos for friends and family More Pictures

monk getting a ride monk getting a ride team of oxen team of oxen one more shot of the braid one more shot of the braid woman carrying lotus fruit woman carrying lotus fruit
family picnic family picnic egg with baby chick egg with baby chick boy drllinh lotud flowers boy drllinh lotud flowers mr dean has smiley faces on his shoes mr dean has smiley faces on his shoes
lotus fruit lotus fruit corn for sale corn for sale bugs for sale bugs for sale crickets anyone crickets anyone
Royal Palace Royal Palace not quite as graceful not quite as graceful Happy Birthday Paul Happy Birthday Paul Al Rockoff's photography at FCC Al Rockoff's photography at FCC
Layton at the FCC Layton at the FCC Happy Bday Paul Happy Bday Paul Smile for the camera Smile for the camera no more facial hair no more facial hair
Layton shooting a tommy gun Layton shooting a tommy gun shooting the gun shooting the gun got jammed a bit got jammed a bit a,,p fpr what you could do a,,p fpr what you could do
todd shooting a machine gun todd shooting a machine gun Layton holding a machine gun Layton holding a machine gun shotgun, AK47, tommy gun, oozie shotgun, AK47, tommy gun, oozie Pic of the king Pic of the king
Part of the Palace complex Part of the Palace complex cool rubbery flower cool rubbery flower Royal Palace complex Royal Palace complex nice garden area too nice garden area too
praying buddha praying buddha even the buddha statues have decoration even the buddha statues have decoration nice pagoda in palace area nice pagoda in palace area musician playing at palace musician playing at palace
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum proson cell and torture cell proson cell and torture cell a bed of the prison with a nice flower a bed of the prison with a nice flower look at some of the rules look at some of the rules
door into one of the rooms door into one of the rooms pictures of prisoners pictures of prisoners pics deaths pics deaths young boy soldiers young boy soldiers
what held prisoners feet what held prisoners feet barbbed wire to keep prisoners from jumping barbbed wire to keep prisoners from jumping 12 prison cells to a room 12 prison cells to a room visually horrible visually horrible
to think this was once a school to think this was once a school skulls of prisoners killed skulls of prisoners killed this was used for torture this was used for torture photo of many skulls photo of many skulls
1000 skulls in the stupa 1000 skulls in the stupa stupa stupa actual bone on the walkway actual bone on the walkway mass grave of 177 victims mass grave of 177 victims
clothing of victims clothing of victims loads of clothes of the victims loads of clothes of the victims bones found in the area bones found in the area killing tree killing tree
our guide lived thru it and lives next to KR our guide lived thru it and lives next to KR tree used to put megaphone to drown out moans tree used to put megaphone to drown out moans old chinese grave old chinese grave skulls in the stupa skulls in the stupa
close up of skulls close up of skulls you can see injuries from the beatings you can see injuries from the beatings dean teaching kids to juggle dean teaching kids to juggle whitening facial cream whitening facial cream
layton and leslie enjoying dinner layton and leslie enjoying dinner dean collecting books to sell dean collecting books to sell got lots of books to sell got lots of books to sell girl dean pays for schooling for girl dean pays for schooling for
orphan children danced for us orphan children danced for us traditional khmer dance traditional khmer dance more dancing more dancing closeup of girl closeup of girl
some were really young some were really young quite a few of them quite a few of them guys too were having fun guys too were having fun i asked for chilli i asked for chilli
having a good time having a good time cool dancing cool dancing big smiles big smiles very good dancers very good dancers
great smiles great smiles such beautiful children such beautiful children dancing with poles dancing with poles jumping over poles jumping over poles
was ashs bday was ashs bday ash and his cake from the children ash and his cake from the children dean and a cute girl dean and a cute girl another shot of the cake another shot of the cake
dean enjoying the kids dean enjoying the kids
Slideshow Print this entry