Phnom Penh - Capital of Cambodia
Trip Start
Nov 21, 2007
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78
158
Trip End
Oct 01, 2008
The capital of Cambodia or Kampuchea was a definite change from Vietnam. We were back in the world of Buddhas, monks and hard economic times for the locals. It is estimated that 1/3 of the population lives on less than 1 USD a day. Poverty and economic struggle is everywhere you go from children selling books to tuk-tuk drivers begging for you to ride a block. We will warn you now....if you don't know the historical struggle of Cambodia, it can be a bit hard to swallow. Basically, the country was destroyed by its own people from 1975-1979. The Khmer Rouge took over Phnom Penh and forced all the people into the countryside as part of a radial social restructuring program to create an "equal society." This is why the majority of the population, over 50%, is under the age of 18. You might have heard of a movie called "The Killing Fields" which discusses the horrible destruction of Cambodia's people.
We visited the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, also known as S-21, which was a school turned prison
Then, we headed to the actual Killing Fields in the country. There were many disturbing things to face. Clothing remnants were still showing through the footpaths as well as bones. Yes, they do clean them up but the rains continue to surface more and more. The memorial for the victims is a very honorable pagoda with skulls of 1000 victims. While this is terrible in its own way, you will also notice that some skulls have large wholes where they were broken while being beat to death. The Khmer soldiers did not want to "waste" ammunition on the victims so most of them were beaten to death
Finally, our guide was a prisoner during this awful time. He was 6 when it started and 9 when it ended....so amazing. One part of his story that really touched Jana. He explained that his current neighbor was a Khmer Rouge soldier. He said when he found out he was angry to the point of wanting to kill him. However, he knew that if he did, his family would suffer (he has 3 kids but Dean said he supports many others in his family too) for his revengeful act. Can you imagine living in that situation? Can you imagine being filled with rage and anger...yet, turning your cheek? This is what many of the people in Cambodia have to live with everyday because there are still people from the old Khmer Rouge throughout the country, and even involved in the government! The recentness of this violence was tough to swallow.
Layton and many others from our group went out to a shooting range. This was where you could shoot a variety of weapons like AK-47, M-16, Uzi, Shotgun, Handgun, Tommy Gun, M-60 Machine Guns, and even throw an actual grenade for $40! Layton ended up wanting to be a part of the mafia and shot the Tommy Gun
You will see a few pictures at the market. If you look really closely, you will see crickets and baby chicks. Yes, when the Khmer were ruling, they rationed food which was not enough to sustain life. So, people learned to eat crickets, spiders, tarantulas and other odd things. Layton tried a cricket and actually said it tasted pretty good. We saw lots of cricket traps too made out of plastic, lamps and a puddle of water, Cambodia actually exports their crickets! Another delicacy is an egg with a partially developed embryo! Yikes...that is what the family having a picnic was eating. They were more than willing to share but we were not keen on the idea.
We also had two birthdays while in Phnom Penh. We celebrated with Paul at Romdeng which is a non-profit training restaurant for former street youth. The food was wonderful! We shared a pork and pumpkin spring roll appetizer which was probably Jana's favorite food on the trip. Then, we celebrated Ash's birthday at Veiyo Tonle (which had great pizzas!) The restaurant supports a local orphanage. As a special treat, the orphans perform traditional dances which we were fortunate enough to see. WHAT A SHOW! We don't know who had bigger smiles the children or the big kids (us!)
We visited the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, also known as S-21, which was a school turned prison
WHAT happened to the face
. Our local guide did a great job of explaining the horrible circumstances the prisoners had to exist in. They could not even sleep without asking permission. They tortured them to get names of other citizens they wanted to extinguish, typically the well educated, or they would kill them but death never came quickly. The Khmer soldiers always drug death out as long as possible. Many prisoners would attempt suicide by jumping off the 2nd and 3rd stories. However, the soldiers put up barbed wire coverings to ensure they would not be successful because they enjoyed the killing process. Disgusting...and horrible, but it happened. The soldiers were boys too. Each year they would kill one group and recruit replacements because the Khmer leaders did not want anyone to know too much. What a disturbing thought process. Then, we headed to the actual Killing Fields in the country. There were many disturbing things to face. Clothing remnants were still showing through the footpaths as well as bones. Yes, they do clean them up but the rains continue to surface more and more. The memorial for the victims is a very honorable pagoda with skulls of 1000 victims. While this is terrible in its own way, you will also notice that some skulls have large wholes where they were broken while being beat to death. The Khmer soldiers did not want to "waste" ammunition on the victims so most of them were beaten to death
one small braid left
. UGH! The actual area where the terrible actions took place is beautifully filled with trees and greenery, but you can't see the beauty because of the emotional impression stamped in your thoughts.Finally, our guide was a prisoner during this awful time. He was 6 when it started and 9 when it ended....so amazing. One part of his story that really touched Jana. He explained that his current neighbor was a Khmer Rouge soldier. He said when he found out he was angry to the point of wanting to kill him. However, he knew that if he did, his family would suffer (he has 3 kids but Dean said he supports many others in his family too) for his revengeful act. Can you imagine living in that situation? Can you imagine being filled with rage and anger...yet, turning your cheek? This is what many of the people in Cambodia have to live with everyday because there are still people from the old Khmer Rouge throughout the country, and even involved in the government! The recentness of this violence was tough to swallow.
Layton and many others from our group went out to a shooting range. This was where you could shoot a variety of weapons like AK-47, M-16, Uzi, Shotgun, Handgun, Tommy Gun, M-60 Machine Guns, and even throw an actual grenade for $40! Layton ended up wanting to be a part of the mafia and shot the Tommy Gun
minivan carrying a motorbik
. While this is entertaining and a unique experience, it is a bit disturbing, but that is part of traveling in a 3rd world country! We split efforts and Jana visited the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda which was not too exciting. Then, we went to support a few NGO's with eating and shopping. You will see a few pictures at the market. If you look really closely, you will see crickets and baby chicks. Yes, when the Khmer were ruling, they rationed food which was not enough to sustain life. So, people learned to eat crickets, spiders, tarantulas and other odd things. Layton tried a cricket and actually said it tasted pretty good. We saw lots of cricket traps too made out of plastic, lamps and a puddle of water, Cambodia actually exports their crickets! Another delicacy is an egg with a partially developed embryo! Yikes...that is what the family having a picnic was eating. They were more than willing to share but we were not keen on the idea.
We also had two birthdays while in Phnom Penh. We celebrated with Paul at Romdeng which is a non-profit training restaurant for former street youth. The food was wonderful! We shared a pork and pumpkin spring roll appetizer which was probably Jana's favorite food on the trip. Then, we celebrated Ash's birthday at Veiyo Tonle (which had great pizzas!) The restaurant supports a local orphanage. As a special treat, the orphans perform traditional dances which we were fortunate enough to see. WHAT A SHOW! We don't know who had bigger smiles the children or the big kids (us!)

