Another overnight train took us back to Hanoi to arrive at 5am.
Our hotel recommended an 18 yr old girl from a Black Hmong village to trek with us through Lau Chai (you have to be accompanied). She was willing to answer any question. Most girls in the villages marry between 16 & 18. She wants to wait a couple more years before having children. She learned English from tourists and her husband works in a restaurant. The tourist season isn't year round, so she also sews clothing for tourist season, but she's just average, not very good at it. It was spectacularly beautiful and very pleasant to chat about life and how its changing for the villagers as more tourists and their money invade the area. (We saw a number of sattelite dishes on wood houses with thach roofs.