Crossing Coastal Mountains on road No.23
Trip Start
Nov 06, 2006
1
69
99
Trip End
Dec 31, 2008
Donghe / Dulan,
Taiwan
Saturday, June 2, 2007
Total Distance: 45 km + 5 Dulan = 50 km( my walk 38 km )
Altitude up: 600m
Altitude down: 800m
The handy alarm rings; it is 4:15am. Am I tired. Quick breakfast of cereal from can , some cookies and then final packing - off it goes. It is pitch dark outside. The first steps of 45 km, basically a too long way to walk, especially with the heat during most of the day.
The first kilometers on road 23 are almost flat. The first light rays of light appear as diffuse light. It is so wonderful and peaceful at such early time. From minute to minute the light changes, soon turns into an orange-red and then more and more yellowish color with a play of light and shadow. All these colors refect in the lush green landscape with rice fields and palm trees, a valley set between the two mountain ranges. I meet the first people, mostly the older folks, going for their morning walk, some chatting with their neighbors, others attending to their vegetable gardens, picking fresh veggies for the day.
After a while the road begins to wind up and reaches at km 16 the highest point at 660m. I pass through a small gorge called Small Tienchiang ( in reference to the famous Taroko Gorge ). The road goes from one plateau to the next higher one, always avoiding the the highest point of the mountain range of over 1000m. This is possible as the Coastal Mountain Range is here split by a smaller rift valley going from North-West to South-East.
Rice, mountains, river, early morning - peaceful
From km 17 the road winds slowly down in South-East direction to the ocean. Now after 8:00 am it already becomes quite hot. From km 22 the valley opens more and a few houses become visible. An elder couple stops their car and I accept a ride from km 18 to 21 - I will need this saved time. I thank them for the ride and continue my walk, even it goes down it is quite cruel with the heat, not the slightest breeze and few shadows because the mountains are not high and the valley wide - same experience as I had a few days ago. At km 25.5 I reach Donghe Veterans Farm, a copy of the Wuling Farm , but lacking most of the fascination of Wuling. This place has a park, plantation, restaurant ( not open now ) and places to stay of different standard. I look a bit around and have my lunch on a bench, tuna in a can and cookies ( I am sure water is forming on your tongue imagining such culinary delights ). After a few kilometers till 31 I cannot resist to take the bus which is coming so conviently for 7 km. Who knows if there will be another bus or car. It is also the option between melting/collapsing in the midday heat ( please do not think it is a joke - I can't take such heat of over 33C in the shadow and propably near 40C on the road asphalt ) or surving in aircon. What would you have chosen? Honestly! We pass by a prison complex - hopefully no beakout today. So I arrive in a small town called Tai Yuan, the end station of the bus.
Early morning light
I walk on and close to the coast there are two options to get to Coastal Road No. 11- via an old one-way tunnel from 1923, which is still in use almost in its original state.
- continue via road 23 passing an old bridge, the former coastal road bridge - on this section the mountains are closer again offering much needed shadow.
I try the tunnel ( c o o l ) first and then walk the final kilometers on road 23. At the bridge is a toilet with water fountain - it's so great to splash the water in my face and on my head.
At 12:30 pm I arrive on No.11 and find a bus stop. I buy a cold drink and sit on the floor by the road under shadow. The bus is almost punctual at 1:00pm. Ahhh - a nice cool and relaxing bus ride for 44 NTD to Dulan - so I thought, but I could not find real peace of mind. I am sitting in the first row, right behind the bus driver and so I can see how the driver is constantly rubbing his eyes and sometimes drifting dangerously over the middle line. Once, I am not sure if he was really having a second long power-nap, at least the bus continued to drift to the left. I call " Hello Chien Sheng ( Mr. ) " and he pulls the bus back - I am not sure if I just saved mine and a few other passengers' life. Better do not think about it. The driver tells me that he has strong headaches. I feel pitty for him - but I am sorry and I know you may call me selfish, but I also feel pitty for myself. Damn, am I tense.
Finally - Dulan and alife! I check the homestay place beside the old sugar factory, but it is all fully booked.
Leaving Fuli on No. 23 ( Inner Rift Valley)
So I walk back to the small camping place beside the police station. On the way I see a community center run by the church, or better one of the churches. Some elder people, mostly women, are weaving handbags and mats from natual materials under a big tree. I watch them a while and a lady from the church tells me that this is the best place under the large old tree. The church supports this activity and the products are for sale. I am the only guest on the camping place. I check in, set up my tent and wash my clothes. I am fighting with my tiredness, but I do not give in. A bit later I go to have a coffee at the sugar factory. The boss, whom I know meanwhile a bit, tells me that they have an Amei tribe singer - Great - I love the aboriginal music - finally I will hear the raw music, last time as you may remember I listened to Bob Marley and other Reggae songs and another time to Nanguan music. I am so looking forward to it. At 3:30pm I kreep up the 250m to Moonlight Inn - tired like a dog and hot, hot ,hot ( this not in a dog sense ). I stay there and finally really relax for 2 hours, enjoying the great view and atmosphere, read and write. Walking down in the mild evening breeze is just pleasant. I buy a 7-11 lunch box and sit down at my tent. At 8:00pm I go to the concert of Aboriginal music in the sugar factory bar. The concert has already started and big surprise - aboriginal singer yes - aboriginal music no; english and chinese oldies, goodies, but not what I had expected or wished for. The owner said it correct, but I had my wishful thinking directing my thinking ). I decide not to go in, just don't feel like it and I am also too tired, to the point of light dizzyness.At 9:00pm I am back at my tent, but here the same problem - no wind, very warm, especially in the tent. Then I have a bright idea - or so I thought. I go to the local grocery store and buy two sealed packs with ice cubes. I place the ice cubes in my tent and it rally works to some degree. My tent gets a bit cooler after a while and I sleep at 9:30 pm, after 16 hours almost continuously on my feet. My sleep is a bit restless, but basically good for a mini tent in which my feet touch one end and my head the other.
