Taiwan - what's to know, and who I am

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Trip Start Nov 06, 2006 Trip End Dec 31, 2008 Next
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  Taipei, Taiwan
Sunday, November 5, 2006

The time has almost arrived - two days before the first stage of my walk around Taiwan. It's quite exiting after some weeks of research and planning. Before I will start with my first stage, the island group called Matsu, I would like to share a bit about myself  and Taiwan.

Who I am

My name is Kurt. I am  49 years old ( although in Chinese counting I am aready 50 years old - a Chinese is counted as being born at age one )  and therewith dangerously close to Fffiii... - OK, that's it.. I am German and I have lived in Taiwan since 1992, where I have worked for the subsidiaries of  a German multinational company in Taiwan in several managerial functions. During that time I have already explored the island  via mountain hikes and stream hikes ( river tracing )

Aboriginal kids

. Remark: As I am not writing in my mother tongue, I hope you will foregive me some spelling, grammar or sentance pattern mistakes. You are welcome to contact me under my e-mail kurtmult@yahoo.com. Hope to hear from you.

To my great shame I have to admit that my speaking and listening abilities in Chinese are still only on survival level, in Taiwanese and Hakka or the Tribal languages basically non existant - except for " I don't understand " - "Wo ting  bu dong", " Wo tia bo " and " Nei tang me sh " respectively. This shall give everyone who has even less knowlegde of any of the languages/dialects the confidence to survive such a trip in Taiwan - although English is not widely spoken in the countryside. [ Tip: best chance in the small villages to find someone who speaks English is a)  local school, often a primary school, has at least one teacher who knows English, but be aware he /she may be shy to speak, b) priest in Christian church, although many churches have no permanent priest, only visiting] Therefore a few  phrases/questions written in Chinese characters, such as " Where can I sleep? Where is the church/temple? Can I stay in church/temple/school? Is there a home stay/ hotel/ camping place? How much does it cost? - a number typed in a calculator often gives the answer! The people in Taiwan are very friendly and this definitely helpes when you get stuck on languages.

Kenting National Park

Most main road signs are also in romanized characters, but trails, smaller roads and all else are not, which may cause some challenges. The other challenge is that several Romanization systems exist and they are all used in Taiwan, so that the same place may be written differently - if you have problems just read out loud and you may figure out the real meaning. In my writing I will consequently follow this confusion.

So, back to my working or better that I decided to quit and go for a walk. That's the here and now.

What is Taiwan like? The following background information shall give you a basic idea about the country, help to explain why I chose the specific walking route and put some of my reports into context when I will mention specific topics lateron. 

Geography:
- Tropic of Cancer runs straight through is middle
- main island lies 160 km across from mainland China's coast, seperated by the Taiwan Straits. Some smaller islands ( Kinmen, Matsu ) belonging to Taiwan lie only a few kilometers off Mainland China's coast
- shaped like a leaf  ( some say tobacco, some tea leave - I thinks tea is more suitable for Taiwan's culture ), it stretches 390 km ( 242 miles ) in length and is 140 km ( 87 miles ) at its broadest point

Tu Di Gung and wife

. Please do not think you can drive across in an hour or so on a highway - it will take you a whole day on mountain roads.
- land area is about 35.000 sq km ( 13.800 sq miles ) with a coastline of 1.450 km - about the seize of Holland.
- although relatively small in seize it has towering mountains forming the Central Mountain Range running 270 km ( 167 miles ) from north to south.  The highest mountain is Yushan ( Jade mountain ) at 3.995 m - it is the highest peak in North-East Asia. Mountains cover two-thirds of the country and are difficult to penetrate due to its extreme ruggedness and natural conditions with earthquakes and Typhoons.
- looking from west to east you will find a)  the outlying small islands like Penghu, Kinmen and Matsu , then b) on the main island plains in the west ( one-third land, 90% of population, almost all industry, all of the largest cities ) then the central mountain range with more than 200 peaks over 3.000m , then c) the east coast with cliffs dropping sharply to the sea in the north/middle and a Rift Valley, then lower mountain range and coast in the middle/south and last but not least d) the islands Ludao ( Green Island ) and Lanyu ( Orchid Island ) out in the open Pacific Ocean.

How did all this come to exist - Geology?

Taiwan lies at the western edge of the Pacific rim of fire, where the Phillippine tectonic plate collides with the Eurasian plate, which has pushed the island of Taiwan up from under the sea

Taoist temple in Pintung county

. That's why you find the steep mountains, coral formations high on land, frequent earthquakes ( especailly along the east coast ), volcanoes ( since ages no longer active ) and hot springs ( very much in use as you will see during the trip ).

Climate -  tough, changable and diverse as the landscape

It is not easy to plan your clothes for a longer trip as the weather changes by seasons, different parts of the island and for sure from the plains to high mountains.

In the low areas the climate is subtropical and in the far south tropical, while the temperatures in the mountains can allow snow in winter, but even in summer in can be chilly - and weather changes frequently and fast.

There are two distinct seasons with a hot summer from May to October and a cool winter from November to March. The north and north-east is in winter much colder ( 10 C and below ) than the south and has also much more rain. Better climate is in the spring months April/May, but rain ( called 'plum rain' ) is also frequent, which can continue through to August. The summer is hot all over Taiwan with temperatures reaching the mid 30th C ( we just had 38 C at the time of writing in July 2007  ) and, especially in the north and north-east very humid ( sticky - you blink an eye and you sweat ), so that quite regular afternoon torrential thunder showers pour down - actually afterwards the air is much cooler, lighter and cleaner, really a refreshing relief. You wouldn't want to be out then as you will be soaking wet and may be electrocuted by lightning! Summer has another speciality - typhoons. They occur from mid July to early October. The storm around the eye may be gone in a few hours, but heavy rains in the clouds arround the eye, especially in its tail may last for days and pose the larger threat in mountainous areas.  On average six typhoons a year hit directly or skirt the island. Don't play outside as you may be hit by flying objects no, not UFOs, just tree branches or meter-high neon boards. During typhoons trips to the mountains are a No-No, except if you want to experience rock- and mud slides, washed away roads/ bridges and sometimes even villages. Need a good reason to extend your vacation? You got it, although I am not sure you will enjoy it. The nicest time of the year is actually the brief autumn ( October, November ) with mild and dry weather.

I order not to be surprised by the weather and not to get stuck on an island or the mountains check the official Taiwan Weather site http://www.cwb.gov.tw, also in English.

Flora

" Green, Green, Green!" I would say as a non-expert, thanks to its tropical and sutropical climate. This said, the green changes by season from a shining, fresh green in spring to a dark green in winter, with some trees also changing their colors like the maple trees and then losing their leaves. Flowers and trees are blosseming all year round, but for sure most in spring time - Sakura trees, the Japanese Cherry tree are plenty and especially colourful. A huge variety of plants can be found due to Taiwan's climate ( geographic location ), altitude changes from sea level to 4.000m high mountains and inaccessability of its steep mountains - from lush broad leaved vegetation of the tropical and subtropical vegetation zone ( up to 2.300 m ) via temperate ( 2.300 m to 3.300 m ) to trees/plants found in the fridgid/alpine climate zone ( above 3.300 m ). A paradise for flora experts. The dense green color goes up to almost the mountain tops, where you still find grass and bushes. The high mountains are still home ( although strongly reduced in numbers by logging - Japanese cut the trees for their temples and houses ) to large old trees 1000 to 2500 years old. Some are easily accessable for tourists in well developed parks.

Fauna

Taiwan is a paradise for bird watchers with its wide variety of endemic and migratory  species ( 440 species of birds, one-twentieth of the world's 8.800, a lot for such a small area ) - key ' birds Taiwan ' into your search engine and you will find many entries. Also insect lovers find a large variety - although some of them can be a pain in the neck ( and not only there ) when staying outside; may the birds get them! Frogs, toads and smaller lizards are also frequent - and where they are: Watch out! Snakes!  Taiwan has quite a collection of them and many are poisonous, but none agressive. So, easy: don't step on their tail, talk to them and persuade them to go their way ( they are one of the reason, besides streams and leeches, why aboriginies hike in rubber boots ). Books always recommend, if bitten,  to stay calm, don't move and get to a hospital quick - each recommendation for itself makes sense, but combined? How to do that if you are in the woods? Bees  in contrast can be agressive if disturbed and that can hurt, even be life threatening. The largest mammels are a black bear with a white collar - this does not automatically make them a gentleman or lady - ( most likely only a few are left in the wild, so if you see one you are really lucky or less so, depending on your quickly built relationship ) and wild boar, which is still hunted by the aboriginies and makes for a fine feast, as well as sambar ( a species of deer ), Reevs's muntjac ( a smaller deer ) and Formosan serow ( a wild goat ), also protected, but in defined numbers hunted by the aboriginies.

A very bief history ( as we step into it while walking )

- as early as 30.000 years ago people have inhabited Taiwan as determined by radiocarbon dating of primitive utensils. They may have walked over from the mainland when the sea had retreated during the ice age. Several prehistoric museums ( Bali near Taipei, Taitung, East Coast ) are dedicated to this subject.
- About 6.000 years ago ( time uncertain and disputed ) the forefathers of todays indigenous peoples belonging to the Austronesian Language Family landed in Taiwan. It is still discussed whether they arrived from Southeast Asia travelling northwards till Taiwan or whether they came from south Mainland China by boats to Taiwan and travelled from here southwards. 
- More than 3000 years Chinese History ( Aboriginies traded dear skin and dear meat with Han Chinese ), although only sporadic contact, no significant migration.
- Since the 15th century Chinese (Han Chinese, Hakka) people from Fujian province migrated to Taiwan in ever increasing numbers. Competing for fertile land the ever growing numbers of Han Chinese drove the Indigenous Peoples into the mountains and to the East Coast.
- In 15th Century the Portuguese arrived in the north and called the island " Ilha Formosa" ( beautiful island  ).  Also Japan showed their interest.
- 1624 Dutch soldiers took over Anping, where they established the first capital at what is now the city of  Tainan ( Anping fort Zeelandia, walls still to be visited )
- 1626 Spanish army occupied Tamsuei and Keelung
- 1642 Dutch drove the Spanish off the island
- 1661 Koxinga or Cheng-kung Cheng of the Ming Dynasty took over Taiwan when fleeing the Mainland from the Manchu and ruled Taiwan until
- 1663 the Manchu or Qing succeeded in taking control of the island, but the rule remained minimal
- 1886 the Manchu governmant officially upgraded Taiwan to provincial status
- 1895 Japan occupied Taiwan ( till 1945 )
- 1911 Sun Yat Sen ( Kuomintang Party - KMT ) declared Republic of China ( ROC ) in the Mainland
- 1927 Civil war began between Communists ( Mao ) and Kuomintang ( Chiang Kai Shek )
- 1945 Japan loses 2nd WW and had to leave Taiwan. KMT troops were sent to Taiwan as administrators
- 1947  2/28 Incident: Taiwanese uprising against KMT administration brutally ended with thousands of Taiwanese dead.
- 1949 Chiang Kai Shek fled from Communists to Taiwan with 2 Mio Soldiers. Chiang introduced authoritarian KMT regime. Chiang intended to invade PRC in Mainlamd China from Taiwan
- 1971 Taiwan retreated from UN
- 1979 USA broke diplomatic relations with Taiwan and recognized PRC
- 1989 Taiwan's first democratic election of Parliament

Politics

Taiwan is fully democratic. President and Parliament as well as lower level constituencies are freely elected. The present President Chen Shuei Bien is from the DDP party, while Parliament has a KMT majority. New elections will be held 2008. ( Update: The election in March 2008 was won by Ma Ying You of the KMT ). Taiwan has also other parties.

A major issue in politics is the relation with the PRC. Till today tensions exist between Mainland China and Taiwan. Mainland China sees Taiwan as a renegade province which it will not allow to declaire independence and will use military force if necessary. Taiwan's present government seeks official independence, which it claims Taiwan defacto has. Now, Taiwan's stance in regard to this issue is not so simple - the population is pretty much split in the middle between independence ( DPP, Taiwanese ) and reunification with the Mainland as the ultimate solution. In practice the majority would like to keep the status quo. ( Update: The new Government seeks closer contact with the PRC, especially in economic terms. Direct flights, impossible for the past 50 or so years, shall be reinstalled.)

Economics

Taiwan's 23 Mio. inhabitants are well off with a per capita income of about 15.000 USD. The economy is growing by 4% plus a year. Taiwan's companies are now leading producers in the world in electronics, optoelectronics, communication and information technology. 18 items rank No. 1 and 12 No. 2. The shoes and toys Taiwan was known for have long moved to China and are now produced there by Taiwanese transplants.

90% of the 23 Mio. Taiwanese live on the western plains and basically all industrial activities are concentrated there in one of the many industrial and science parks, only sand, gravel, cement and marble industies are located in the eastern parts ( plus some upcoming once like marine park ). Taiwan's western plains have one of the highest population densities in the world.

Population groups

a) Taiwanese - arrived from Mainland China several hundret years ago
                        - geographic location: mainly middle and south Taiwan
                        - tend to support Independence
                        - support DPP,TSU ( Taiwan Solidarity Union )
b) Mainlanders - arrived from Mainland China after 1949
                           - geographic location north and middle Taiwan
                           - tend to support Reunification with Mainland China
                           - support KMT, NP ( New Party ), PFP ( People First Party )
c) Hakka         - seperate ethnic group from Manland China, subgroup of a) and b)
                         - about 14 % of population
d) Indigenous Peoples - earliest group in Taiwan
                                       - geographic loacation in mountain areas and east coast
                                       - about 2 % of population
                                       - originally known the 9 tribes system, now 14 tribes, often assimilated with other groups a-c
                         - see more information in Entry No. 19, also " Hello or greeting phrase " in their tribal languages. 
                                       
Religions

Taiwan is often described as being among the most religiously tolerant places in the world. Over 90% are Buddhism, Taoism, which often co-exist in the same temples, and Confucianism, as well as Ancestor  worship, Indigenous beliefs, Christianity of many denominations, Islam. If you want to read more about the religions in Taiwan I can recommend " Private Prayers and Public Parades - Exploring the Religious Life of Taipei" by Mark Caltonhill, published by ' Department of  Information ', Taipei City Government in December 2002.

Safety

Taiwan, though not without crime, is definitely one of  the safest places anywhere in terms of street crime. Nevertheless theft can happen ( although in very rare cases ), so take the general precautions as you would do anywhere. I had not one single incidence during my previous 2.5 month of walking - the countryside is even more safe. 

Metric and Value Conversions - for an easier reading by guests coming from different systems

- C to F:   C x 1.8 add 32
- F to C:   F subtract 32 divide by 1.8

- 1 foot = 0.3 metres
- 1 metre = 3.28 feet
- 1 km = 0.62 mile
- 1 mile = 1.61 km

1 USD = 30.5 NTD
1 EURO = 48.0  NTD

  

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