Zodiacs, bears, the oldest trees in canada
Trip Start
Sep 01, 2005
1
6
10
Trip End
Sep 10, 2005
Tofino,
British Columbia,
Canada
Tuesday, September 6, 2005
First trip is Ocean Outfitter's Bear viewing by Zodiac 2 hour tour. We get there early to suit up in our waterproof suites. Then hobble down to the harbor and gingerly climb into the zodiac. In minutes we are flying over the water, Then passing small islands and inlets.
Everything is lush green or turquoise blue. We pull into small coves, find the bears aren't there and fly over the water again. We're happy to be ducking thru the inlets at an incredible speed. We spot a mother and a cub, pull in and observe for a few minutes until she walks off, her cub in tow.
The next inlet is the winner
Sittin on the dock at the bay
. A mom and her twin cubs. Mom is scavenging for food under the rocks. She lifts the rocks and throw them over her head. The two cubs must be a little slow on learning, cause they stay right behind mom and her flying rocks. Eventually the cubs give up and scamper up the tree to nap. Momma bear is still eating and throwing rocks. We were close enough to hear the rocks land. What an experience. The Tofino harbor comes into view as the zodiac flys back to the pier. This was worth more than the $50 per person ticket.
We head upto town and walk thru some of the craftstores and shops before walking over to the waterfront to get our tickets for the Big Tree Trail water shuttle to Meares Island. The "office" is a booth with a phone sitting on the ledge outside the booth, but no one inside. A sign says "pick up the phone and call (a phone number is listed). I pick up the phone and call. A voice answers and asks what time do you want to go? I say when ever the next departure is. The answer is when do you want the departure to be. As soon as possible is my answer. Ok, I'll be there in two minutes is the response.
I've always loved Tofino. It's like a step into the twilight zone. Many of the residents here are ex-hippies or still hanging onto the hippie culture
John and Kary can't wait
. Used to be most of the vehicles in town were painted vans. Some lived in them, and some had a house and a parking space for their vans. Now the living here is more upscale with condos (big sigh of dissapointment) being built on the vacant lots.Our "captain" is coming around the building and says follow me to the boat! Is that service or what? The boat is a "mini' version of something I've never seen before, and named "Re-Joyce." But it's getting us over to Mears Island. 10 minutes later we arrive at the island.
We semi-dock in the shallow area and jump out onto larger rocks. We're standing on the edge of a thick forested island without a clue what we will be doing. "When do you want picked up? " Mr. Captain asks? How long should we be here we ask? About two hours should do it he says. Just follow the trail back and I'll come get you. Then he points at the hillside and says there's the trail.
Now I could see some of my friends from New York City getting paranoid about being dropped off on a deserted island and told that they would be picked up later. I figure we haven't paid him yet - so he has to come get us if he wants his $10 a person fee
The zodiak
. We wave him off and hit the trail. We're expecting dirt of mud, but discover a boardwalk. Pleasant suprise, as this is thick growth ferns and trees, and those two combine to increase the pesky flying insect population. Also it keeps the mud from sucking you in down to your ankles. We're happy hikers. The wooden planks are uneven in places, so watch before you step. The path winds around thru the forest.
You are close up and personal with old growth cedars. We walked in a cedar, climbed up and sat on fallen ones, and just admired these old survivors that were close to being cut and logged into extinction in the 1980's . A twenty year battle over the logging rites vs. the saving of this pristine islands 800 to 1300 year old trees was won by a group of women who fought, were arrested and finally won the court decision and the "war of the woods" to keep this island's old growth trees safe from logging. Following the path I say a huge "thanks" for their unfailing faithfullness to their cause.
This is truly a special place. Our last stop is at the Hanging Garden tree. This cedar is 2000 years old and 60 feet in circumfrance. It's the 4th largest western red cedar in existance
Then we found three
. And to think what those loggers would have done to this tree. Shameful! We only say one other couple on our self-guide tour, so we felt like we had the island to ourselves. Well, we're back on the beach, throwing pebbles into the water. Kary's giving me that "Mom I think this is not going to be good look." I mention that we are stuck on Paradise Island. That gets me a few hard looks. But in the horizon a small boat is coming toward us. Yep. It's time to Re-Joyce cause we are saved!
We thank the captain and give him a tip for his service. I'd come back again, but hire a private guide to explain all the flora and fauna and trees that we skipped by. And also extend the tour to the non-boardwalk section (with waterproof hiking boots). Next time definetly.
We're headed back towards Ucluelet for a hike on the Willowbrae Trail off of Highway 4. It's a nice walk thru the old growth trees, although it is hard to comare Meares Island to these stands. Then you start a steep (should I repeat STEEP) downhill boardwalk and stairs desent to the beach.
This was once part of the original trail from Tofino to Ucluelet
Momma and her
. We rest on the beach, then the do the "stairclimber" back up the hillside. I hate to admit that I stopped more than once for a catch-up breath. At least we were smart enough to pack in water. We ate at the apartment tonight to save time. We need edto be back at the Green Point Campground for the Pacific Rim Park Service Ranger Program. This is our first time at the campground, which has lots of parking close to the indoor theatre. I'm suprised and impressed with how modern this building is. I don't think it was built the last time we were here. We're warned again about the bear siteings around the Park.
We've hanged some of our hikes because of this. Wish we had the chance to see the mom and cubs up close (from the safety of our car) but no luck so far. The ranger probably is an improv comedian in his other life. The program is about bear life on the island. Oh gosh, he's written a song and we all have a part in it. The theatre is packed so this could be fun. We've learnt a few things tonight. And as we head back to the apartment, I'm wishing we had a few more days in this area.
