Day 2 We have appointments scheduled starting at 7:30am, but there is no rushing the Irish during breakfast, and Mary brought out the whole family to meet us.
Town: Cashel
Attraction/rating: The Rock of Cashel/5 (if the wind is not howling)
The Rock of Cashel is on "high ground" The wind can be brutal, but the views and the "Rock" is worth it.
Due to the size of this attraction, I "borrowed" the following from website:
Buildings: The Castle - is one of the first buildings you'll see as you exit the ticket office, though you might not recognize it as such as it's in a very poor state of repair. However on closer inspection you will notice arrow slits along the walls and a tower beside the main entrance. You will also notice a large "boulder" sitting in the grass. This is, in fact, the corner of the castle. Notice how thick the walls are.
The Cathedral - located beside and attached to the castle, the cathedral is the largest building on the site. From the air you would see the traditional cross shape of the building that is common among cathedrals. Within the walls of this grand structure are many features worth looking at. Several carved tombs can be fund in the North Transept. The carvings are remarkably detailed. They are amazingly fresh looking considering their age and the fact that they are exposed to the elements. (Great views of the farmland and Hore Abbey from here)
The Choir contains the 17th century tomb of Miler Magrath. He caused great scandal by being both a Protestant and Catholic archbishop at the same time! At the center of the Cathedral is the area known as "The Crossing". Look up and see the lovely detailed arch where the four sections of the building come together. The Cathedral dates back to the 13th century.
Note: St Patrick's Cross, Cormac's Chapel and the Round Tower are the earliest recorded structures since religious occupation, dating back to the 12th century. Cormac's Chapel - beside the cathedral is this small chapel. The entrance features a wonderful Romanesque archway with supports. It's said to be the "Jewel of Cashel".
There is a tympanum over the door featuring a centaur in a helmet with a bow and arrow aimed at a lion, perhaps a symbol of good over evil. Directly inside the chapel is a sarcophagus that probably contained the remains of either a king or a Cashel priest at one time. The original sits in the National Museum in Dublin on Kildare Street. Directly inside the chapel is a sarcophagus that probably contained the remains of either a king or a Cashel priest at one time. The original sits in the National Museum in Dublin.
At the opposite end of the church is the Nave, which features dual arches with hand carved faces on both. One of the most wonderful finds on the site are the medieval paintings that are now showing through the old plasterwork. The Round Tower - stands 92 feet and is the oldest and tallest building on the site. Notice the doorway is about ten feet from the ground. The lookout would signal intruders advancing. Cashel priests and students would climb a ladder and up the many levels of stairs to fill the tower, then the ladder was raised up inside. Food was kept there so they could outlast the intruders.
Hall of Vicars Choral - houses original artifacts found on the site during excavations in the museum. Also part of this building is the dormitory and an audio/visual theatre. This building is of 15th century construction, and like the castle is the newest part of the site. Note the richly detailed wooden beams.
Hours/rates: Mid Sept to Mid Oct 9am to 5:30pm. Mid Oct to Mid March 9am to 4:30pm. Mid June to Mid Sep 9am to 7pm. Adult:€ 5 Student/child: €2 Family: €11
Allow at least one hour. Tour guides available at cost.
Hore abbey is not part of Rock of Cashel admission. As you walk up to the Rock on the left side is an entrance gate and path (free). Follow this down hill through the cow pasture - about a 10 minute walk- to a beautiful 13th century ruin.
Entertainment: Note: Facility was toured, but show was not previewed as it was not in season, but I would rate it a 5 - especially for musicians - this is authentic Irish Bru Boru (Located at the foot of the Rock of Cashel -at the far side of the disk parking lot) Fantastic facility. Stone and traditionally-decorated Irish backdrop on stage. This area is used both for banquets and for performances. Separate area holds 250 theatre seating. Traditional Irish song, folk dance (authentic step dance NOT Lord of the Dance) and music performed by talented college students sponsored by Ireland's cultural commission. This is a venue to further Irish cultural heritage among the Irish people. Casual sessions follow every performance. Audience participation is encouraged. Bru Boru facility also houses a genealogy area with over 400,000 records dating from the 1600's. Hours/rates: June 15 - Sept 15 Tue -Sat 9am to 11:30pm Sun & Mon 10am to 5pm. Shows are Tues to Sat 9pm only. Show only. Adult €15 Student/child: €9 Dinner & show : €40 Student/child: €20 Contact: email
bruboru@comhaltas.com
** Irish music website info given to me by Una: Comhaltas Ceoltóirí Eireann (CCE), an organization founded to preserve Irish music, organizes regional festivals called fleadhs (flahs), which culminate in a national festival held in a different city each year. www.comhaltas.com; telephone: (0)1 280 0295 To find branches across Ireland, www.comhaltas.com/culturlann/tithe.htm.
We are still on schedule as we head south to Cobh (Cove). Our only stop is "the Vee" a scenic 18 kilometer drive from Clogheen to Lismore. N8 to Cahir is a breeze. R668 runs thru a few small villages. We find farm vehicles and tight lanes. Spot the directional sign for the V. It's angled so we guess "straight." Five minutes of a curvey/bendy lane and we decide to turn back and try the other "angle." Four minutes on this new lane, we decide we should have stayed on the other lane and turn around. Back on the road to the Vee?
After 10 minutes we are climbing. The road is getting narrower. Curve after curve we are reaching the top of Knochmealdown Mountains. The first overview and I know we have made a mistake. The next overview we look down the "vee" and say hmmm. Without the blooming heather and the sheep in the photo, the view is just hmmm. Maybe a bright blue sky and some scattered clouds would have helped. There are some good looking hiking trails along the ridges (if we had the time). So, back in the car. Two minutes down the road we find the sheep. Of course, no heather, and no scenic valley. The road is even more bendy and tighter against stone walls. The sheep are in the fields and on the road. The farm tractors are all heading for town, in front of us. Our schedule is now blown, and we are desperately low on gas.
We arrive in Lismore. Gary spots the Castle. Having missed Kilkenny he believes this is his due. It is a perfect castle on the river, surrounded by lush tree with huge turrets. I have to disappoint him. The only tour is the gardens. He doesn't look happy. We need gas and to be in Cobh NOW. Decided to stay on rural 827 into Midleton. Then east on N25. We're over an hour late into Cobh but..
County: Cork Town : Attraction/rating: Queenstory Experience 5* adults /4* students
The Queenstown Story is located in the former Victorian railroad terminal. This is a unique dual-media exhibit. The first exhibit areas deal with the famine ships. A large screen projects an old masted ship pitching in unbelievable high waves as the crew works on deck. In this room are many articles about the famine and the passengers on these ships. Also Convict ships that held both men and women on their passage to Canada and Australia.
A large White Star Lines exhibit including passenger lists and memorabilia from the Titantic. (Cobh was the last port of call for the Titantic before she sank) Photos of steamships including the SS New York. Mock-ups of many Cunard ocean liners, photos of passenger cabins and public areas and a full scale replica of a Cunard cabin. An exhibit is dedicated to the Lusitania, whose many victims were buried in Cobh. Outside the exhibit is the statue of Anne Moore, the first arrival to Ellis Island when it opened January 2 1892. Hours/rates: Daily Nov- March 10am to 5pm. April - Oct 10am to 6pm. Closed Dec 21 - Jan 2. Adult:€ 5 Senior/Student: €4. Child 2.50 Contact: Anne Malloy info@cobhheritage.com
Town:Fota Attraction/rating: Established in 1983 with the primary aim of conservation, Fota has more than 70 species of exotic wildlife in open natural surroundings with no obvious barriers. Girafffes, zebras, ostrich and antelope roam together in 40 acres of grassland, much as they would in the African savannah. Monkeys swing through trees on lake islands, while kangaroos, macaws and lemurs have complete freedom of the Park. Only the cheetahs have a conventional fence. A great many of the species at Fota are under serious threat in the wild. Fota is the world's leading breeder of the endangered cheetas. The Scimitar horned Oryx, brought from the brink of extinction, but is notw being re-introduced in its native North Africa. Beside the Wildlife Park is the internationally renowned Fota Arboretum, which has a beautiful collection of trees and shrubs, from all over the world, including China, Japan, Australia and the Himalayas. Hours/rates: Daily April to Sept 10am -5pm. October - March 10am - 3:30pm Adult €9.50 Children, Students & Seniors €6.00 Family Day Ticket €38.00
It's obvious that our schedule has to be adjusted. Mizen Head is "must-do" as is Charles Fort, south of Kinsale. We opt for Mizen Head, which makes me happy! Forty-five minutes later, driving on Rural 589, and too many rural miles left between us and Mizen Head, we alter our plans and head to Bantry, which may put us back on schedule. The drive is through scenic towns and open farmland. Then the surprise of the turquoise blue water of Bantry Bay. Three minutes behind schedule, we are in the Bantry House parking lot. This IS the home and gardens of my dreams, and so far I am only viewing it from the side.
Town:Bantry Attraction: Bantry House and Gardens. 4 ½.
This property has been owned by the gracious White family and maintain it as their residence. Currently under restoration, 4 rooms are now completely renovated, many of the public room floors are draped with white sheeting (but work should be complete by late spring). Conamara marble columns, Flemish and French tapestries. Leather covered doors. Artwork. Antiques. A living museum.
This "house" is also the setting for many professional musical performances through out the year. The best views of the Italianate gardens, House and Bantry Bay are behind the house from the top of the 100 garden steps "stairway to heaven" (the climb is well worth it).
Keeping the beautiful blue waters of Bantry Bay to our left, we continue north east on N71. Curve after curve, the road keeps dipping and rising. B&B's are hidden in small coves, or sit high on the hill with enviable bay views.
In the small village of Glengarriff (golf course) is the Eccles Hotel, no time to do a site inspection. The modern hotel sits in a parking lot. The views are of Bantry bay, and the ferry dock to Garnish Island.
We begin the climb across Caha mountains. The narrow road holds the surprise of Turner's Rock Tunnel, a one lane stone tunnel burrowed through the mountain's peak. I'm holding my breath and hoping that no one is coming up the other side. The ride down the mountain is even curvier. The road flattens out and we spot the Sheen Falls Lodge directional sign on the right. It's a short drive back (past a small cemetery I would love to explore) to the parking lot overlooking the hotel
Town: Kenmare; Accommodation/rating :Sheen Falls Lodge5*
My first impression is not what I expect of a 5*. I'm looking down at the hotel that appears to be a three storied yellow sprawling condo complex. Where is the grand entrance?
It's decision time again, do we do the inspection here or on to Park Kenmare? We walk down hill from the parking lot to what appears to be the back entrance. On the left are grass tennis courts, overlooking Kenmare Bay. Not so bad. The hotel entrance is a circular drive with ornate fountain. We are now facing the front of the hotel. The entrance of the former 18th century fishing lodge is casually elegant. Lit fireplace plush sofas and chairs. Beautiful artwork adorns the walls.
We are greeted immediately. The lack of an official "registration desk is a surprise, but the sales manager explains that guests are discreetly checked in at the small antique desk. (Nice touch!) The "condo" we walked past are rooms have been added to the main lodge. We learn that the hotel was bought by a Danish shipping magnate. The soft colors in the hotel are reflective of this heritage. Our tour starts with the La Cascade's Restaurant. Here the warm yellow encompasses the room with touches of white (in the evening it turns to a soft gold). Many of the tables overlook Sheen Falls. A white baby grand piano sits by the entrance and is played during dinner. This is one of the most relaxing 5* dining rooms I have been in.
Across the hall from the Cascade's is a the Sun Lounge. A peat fire burns year round. Large comfortable sofas and wing backed chairs. Bay window overlooking the falls. Again, the soft yet warm colors decorate the room. Formal tea served at lunch. Open all day for snacks and light meals. Glassed door leads to small tables for dining on the stone patio overlooking the falls. For more casual dining (don't think inexpensive!) Oscar's Bar & Bistro offers both indoor and outdoor dining. Nautical theme (the owner has donated many pieces of artwork from his private collection to the hotel) interior.
The stone terraced outside dining has fantastic views of both the falls and the arched bridge. You are literally yards away from the falls. A carved sweeping staircase leads to the 2nd floor rooms. 61 rooms Our first is a Signature Suite. The expansive living room bay window has view of Kenmare Bay. Huge bedroom and bath. All bathrooms in the hotel are marble and oversized. Junior Suites combine large living/bedroom area. Many have water views. The lowest category, Deluxe rooms are quite comfortable 4 have waterfall views.
The Billard's room on the second floor in almost unbelievable. A championship table sits at the entrance to the room. Large windows and a huge bay window look out over Kenmare Bay. This room can be used for small (35px max) private functions. My favorite room, of course, is the Library. This is what I envision of every library in an English or Irish Manor house. Here the soft colors are replaced by deep rust/oranges. Soft, comfortable green leather sofas and chairs flank another sweet smelling peat fireplace. Walls are lined with hand crafted wood bookcases, filled with over 1000 volumes - classics to contemporary writers. Many books are leather bound. Small indoor free-flow pool area is very contemporary. Light wooded ceiling with sky-lights. The Spa at Kenmare has 8 treatment rooms and is located near the pool. One hour basic massage is €80. With over 300 acres of parkland, gardens hiking trails this is THE place to relax. OK, 5* it is.
Town: Kenmare
Accommodation/rating: Park Kenmare/5 You can almost pretend that you're returning home from a journey, when you park in front of the Park Kenmare, and the owner or manager comes outside to greet you and take your luggage, while pleasantly whisking you to registration.
Check-in is in a small "alcove" area. Forget a counter with a credit card swipe and computer. We find ourselves in a small alcove area, seated in soft velvet arm chairs across from a desk. And while we are relaxing and discussing the drive and life, poof, we are ready to be accompanied to our room. Did I blink and miss it?
This truly unique 1897 gray stone hotel has 46 individually furnished rooms. All with sitting areas. Most have a private veranda, terrace or a full water view. All are decorated with antiques. A twelve seat movie theater, The Reel Room, places classic movies nightly. Guest sitting room is just what you would not expect in a five star hotel. The large wallpapered rectangular room is filled with a non-matching but very inviting selection of sofas, love seats, chairs and tables. The room flows to different seating areas for semi-privacy. At the far end is a large half-rounded alcove. Wing chairs are in front of the huge windows that over look the bay.
Three room categories. All are suites, but do not have completely separate living areas. Peeked in a Standard which had a nice sofa and two wing chairs, soft coloring and large windows, double bed (some rooms have twins). The room was very large and well decorated.
Our room was a Deluxe. Bless my soul this is the way I want to live. The room was huge. Carved wood antique poster bed (not the Jamaican Sandals variety) draped in the most richly textured, jeweled-colored fabric I have ever felt or seen. Crossing the room to the living area, the soft amber walls are the back drop for beautiful original landscapes hanging in antique golden frames. The carpet is lush and scattered with what I am now sure are antique carpets. Oh, the view from our terrace of the fields rolling to the Crystal blue waters of Kenmare Bay. If we didn't have the Samas appointment, I would stay on the terrace and await the sunset.
Spa reception area. It's not easy focusing on the reception desk, when the first site that draws your eyes is the huge length of floor to ceiling windows overlooking the woodlands. It's as if you are already spaaaaahhhing. The room has soft white leather sofas, some face the view. We head for the desk. We're told the name Samas - pronounced savas is Gaelic word for Indulgence of the Senses. I am ready to be indulged. Our therapists come out. Normally, the process takes at least three to four hours for a massage or treatment.
The program consists of three separate "experiences." Starting with the Heat Experience room, then the treatment, then the relaxation room. Of course, to my dismay we don't have time to do the "normal, " so we are off on our treatments, sandwiched between abbreviated Heat and Relaxation Experiences. The Male Heat Experience Room is different only in the Sauna is a very hot Rock Sauna. The female Heat Experience Room.
First I hit the Laconimum (warm sauna with heated curved mosaic tile recliners) and a full view of the woods thru floor to ceiling glass. Gotta try the the Tropical Chilled Mist Shower before the Crystal Steam room. Yep there is a huge crystal in the room for positive energy, and the aromatherapy doesn't hurt. I am so quickly positive that I run to the Monsoon shower. Cool enough before my stone massage, I decide against the large stone bowl of crushed Ice - Ice Fountain. The full hour would have been SO relaxing. Well, on to the stone massage. There are 6 soundproof treatment rooms. What a bonus not to hear anything other than your breathing and the sound of sleek stones massaging. A full hour of melting and massaging has its benefits. What I didn't expect is the scalp massage that turned my brain to mush. This is a "comp" after every treatment! Now on to the last mini-relaxation segment. Again, they separate the guys from the gals, and I like the idea. With heated floors, the room has 6 wooden lounge chairs, which resemble small beds with thick cushions. I'm being told that the lumber to build them came from the property, but with a full glass view of the rolling fields and trees in front of me I am tuning her out. She is now explaining the head phones that have specially composed music for Samas, the control for the electrically adjustable head rest, and the individual reading lamps - yeah like I brought a book? And the adjoining terrace and Vitality Pool. But the feature that attracts me is overhead. A large glass (?) panel is suspended from the ceiling. Behind it are fiber optic lights that slowly change colors. It's as if clouds are floating across the sky. Oh I do like this room.
After a brief lounge under the skies, it's time for the Vitality Pool that sounds so opposite of Relaxation. Might as well try it. It's located between the guys and gals area. Looks like a huge hot tub with billions of bubbles. I get a brief explanation of "areas" in the pool that massage your body, feet and neck. and it's an infinity pool that flows to Kenmare Bay. Oh double joy. Darn if the stomach isn't saying feed me, and the spa is closing for the evening.
We ARE coming back here for the couples treatment in one of the two private suites, Skelling or Blasket which can be rented by the half or full day. The suites have two massage beds, two wooden chaise lounges, again with those thick pads, a private garden, Spa pool on the terrace and a garden swing. And close enough to the Heat and Relaxation rooms to make the day perfect. Instead of a raise this year, I am telling Dennis I want Samas for a weekend. The18 hole Kenmare Golf Club, is adjacent at the hotel. Croquet, tennis and walking paths are on site. Restaurant, lounge, bar. We heard rave reviews about the restaurant, which is both indoor and on the terrace during warm weather, but wanted to walk the town.
Contact: phone: 353 64-41200 Fax: 353 64-41402 E-mail:
info@parkkenmare.comDining: Lots of pubs and small restaurants line the town's streets.
Foley's Pub on Henry Street. Traditional Irish Pub. Comfortable atmosphere, large front windows overlook street. Dinner menu choices include everything from fish, lamb, pork, beef, vegetarian and pasta, to chicken Fajiates (but without cheese!) Prices average €9- 15. Alas, iced tea is was not on the menu and I am in withdraw. Ten minutes later, I am showing the waiter how to make simple ice tea. This seems astounding to the Irish why anyone would put ice in tea. A few Americans enter soon after and ask for Ice Tea. I "supervise" the simple process, and explain how to make it in quantity and in advance. Foley's now offers unsweetened Ice tea with sugar or lemon on the side! I may get an Irish saint hood for introducing it to the small towns of Ireland.
Seats up to 40. Can accommodate more if table arrangements are changed. Groups must call at least 2 days in advance. Traditional Irish music in pub summer evenings.
NOTE: Individuals dining in small towns in SE Ireland must be informed to "ask for the check" if not, the waiters do not disturb you no matter how long you are sitting after finishing your meal.
Kenmare Hotels
1 vote 
