Eclipse, Creel. Valley of the Mushrooms and Frogs
Trip Start
Aug 25, 2007
1
4
12
Trip End
Sep 03, 2007
Creel,
Mexico
Wednesday, August 29, 2007
The Chepe train can not be called "cheap" by any stretch of the imagination. The seats are large and comfortable. Most face forward on the southbound route. There are 2 sets of seats that face backward, for an "intimate" seating of 4 of your best friends. I'm short, and my knees would still be knocking into the opposite persons calves.
The window situation is - yes you get a window. Some seats have very large windows , some have small windows. It's the width that varies, not the height, the windows are from waist height to the overhead storage ledge. We're sitting on the left side. The lunar eclipse is still visable out the right window.
Scenery here is low impact. Open green fields (we are in the rainy season so we're told to expect fields of wildflowers and active waterfalls). And heavy downpours is possible anytime. Lots of apple orchards and fruit trees. Most of the large plots of trees are "netted." I'm thinking it's to keep the birds away, but nope, it's to protect the trees from hail.
This is also lumber mill areas
The bar car
. And small towns with cowboys riding their horses on trails and in the pastures.We arrive at the train station in Creel at 11:30 and have the choice of waiting for the bus, or hiking it to the Best Western Lodge. Quite a few of us say "hike it." It's a short 3 blocks thru town, with totem pole pillars holding up the roof lines of the stores.
The road is dirt, and a few cowboys on horseback are riding in the opposite direction. The hotel's property entrance is a little unusual. Four inch metal rails, seperated by another four inches of space seperate the road from the property.
I carefully walk over them, knowing one slip and it's a twisted or broken ankle for me. We're impressed with the main lodge which contains a large sitting area and a sunken dining room. The decor is animal skins, from fox to bear and everything inbetween.
The rooms are log cabin style, but not seperated. Every room has a fire place! And almost every room has a porch swing. It's quiet and relaxing. This is a place to stay for at least 2 -3 days. On site is a spa with affordable prices. We go to the desk to make a reservation, but the spa is closed today. There is a hot tub in the spa that we can use. Darn.
Next is a group lunch in the dining room. Very good food, a to die for corn soup, and an extremely delicious desert. The waiter must have seen me gobble it down, cause he comes over with another piece of flan. It's going to my room for a late night snack! Not too much time between lunch and our tour
Stone fences and
. We have the old school bus that brought the non-walkers and the luggage from the train station to the hotel. We're loaded up and ready to go (suncreen and deet are already on). The bus is having a hard time pulling the hill. It doesn't help that the hill is a packed dirt road with a few ruts scattered here and there. After a few unsuccessful tries, it seems better to get off the bus and walk to the top of the hill. This is where the small office is for the Park.
We continue up to the Tarahumara Cave, passing soaring rock formations and wildflowers. The group makes it's way down a small incline to the cave. The Tarahuma's consider themselves an independent nation, and call themselves Raramuri (translated means "people") instead of Tarahumara - a name given to them by the Spanish/Mexicans. Pronounciation is tärä OO mä'rä
Father sun and Mother moon is very important, and they believe that they were the first peoples to be created by the sun and the moon. Because of the solar eclipse, in which Father sun covered Mother moon, many of the men and some of the women will be conducting rituals. There is a fear of the Mother Moon not being visible in the night sky. Many children will not go to school today because of this.
The Tarahumara are very shy people. They usually will not ask you to purchase their crafts, but will stand silently with their products in their hands waiting for you to inquire. You will also see them at all the train stops, walking up onto the tracks and standing silently below the windows.
They are known for their beautiful woven pine needle baskets
Getting ready for more passengers
. The prices range from $1 mini's, $4-$6 for 6" high, and up to $40 for two gallon size. The prices are dirt cheap, and the labor is intensive. Do NOT haggle with them, as this is a large source of their income. Haggling to save yourself a dollar could mean that someone is going hungry, or their child may not be able to afford a limited education. Another no-no is giving out candy and treats. These native people have had a major increase in diabeties and heart disease. This is caused by their new "anglo" diets. Prior to tourism, the Tarahumara's diet was high in fiber, and healthy. Now, a Coke, fatty foods and candy are becoming more popular. Sometimes tourism does ruin a civilization. Mini-lecture over, back to the hike.
We're headed down to a Tarahumar's cave. Most of the Tarahumara have lived in shallow depth caves in the hillsides, or in stone buildings under a cave ledge, similar to the Aztecs. Simple one room log cabins are becoming more popular to the Tarahumara. The "home" we are in has blackened ceilings and some walls, caused by the fires used to cook their meals and help warm their space during the cold winters. Standing at the edge of the home we can look out to their pastures where crops are grown, and cattle roam. A movable fence is used for the pastures, assuring the animals of abunant feed.
This is a hard life, with little creature comforts. We learn that the women purposely dress in clashing colors and multiple patterns on their clothing for their religious beliefs
We're on
. Crafts and baskets are for sale here. A tip bowl is near the exit. Both Gary and I contribute. The wildflowers and rock formations are captivating, but we're headed back to the bus and onto the Valley of the Mushrooms. These aren't the type you eat, but the type you stand under. Or if you are not vertically challenged, you can reach up and push the "mushroom cap" stone with your hand. Many of the caps weigh over two tons. Quite a thrill to be moving something so heavy with just one hand.
I'm headed up the hill side to discover more formations. Looking to the side I spot it. Ooooo. One of my biggest fears in life is rattlesnakes. I've just met my fear. I'm moving slowly (and gingerly) back down the path when I meet up with Tom who warns me about a rattlesnake he saw on another path. Yep, time to get down to the bottom.
In the parking lot are more blankets displaying pottery, baskets and jewelry. It's hard to pass them by, but I do. Cesar anounces the hike to the Valley of Frogs. We pass thru fields where goats are being tended.
Then "the frog" comes into view. I'm looking but can't figure out how they can see a frog in this rock. And happy to know that the gal hiking beside me can't see it either. Of course now I'm mumbling about Mexican frogs looking different than the US version. Cesar hears my comment and is confused. He points out the features of a huge rock. Darn, I explain, I was looking at another large rock. He just shakes his head, but everyone else is laughing
Cowboy country
. We continue down the valley scrambling over big boulders and thru narrow trench paths. Sabrina, annouces we are going to the school. I catch up with her and ask which school. She points down the hillside and says the Mission school, where the bus will meet us and we will give the mission the school supplies. I'm dumbfounded and stutter "this isn't the school!" I had contacted the Creel Mission weeks before this trip and told them Gary and I would be bringing a suitecase full of Mexican books and school supplies and wanted the address to drop them off.
Then, a light bulb went off in my head that there are other people on this trip that might want to bring pencils, pens, paper, toys and books for the Tarahumara students. These schools are impoverished. Most of the students share pencils. School supplies are very apreciated.
I asked Sabrina to put a note in everyones travel documents requesting school supplies. More than four LARGE packing boxes of supplies were donated. And the Mexico tour office sent a pinata for the kids! Well, here I am dumbfounded that we are at the wrong school with the supplies. I explain the situation to Sabrina, but we can't not take them in to this country school, because the school is now expecting them. She says one of the 4 boxes is in transit back to Creel, it wasn't taken off the train. Ok, that gives both schools some needed supplies.
The gates open and we are in the courtyard with the children. Many are Tarahumara students that stay here during the school year and never see their parents until school is dismissed for the summer
Dogs
. It costs $351 for a parent to lodge and feed their child here during the school year. Most parents cannot afford this cost. The Mission in Creel takes donations for children that cannot afford school. We are told there are over 200 kids in this school. Over 151 board here. Some of the day kids are not at school today because of the eclipse. Most of the girls clothes are traditional, multi layered colorful skirts. The majority of the kids avert their eyes. The pinata is being paraded around the courtyard/playground. The kids are gaping in awe of the big red animal. They have never seen a pinata before. We line the kids up in two rows - boys and girls. The fun begins as they take turns batting the red stuffed bear. Finally it breaks and everyone is scampering for candy on the ground, which they share with each other. So polite!!
I ask Cesar to take me to the person in charge of recieving cash donations. I've received money from friends, family, and clients who help "support" my causes. This money is to go to kids. A few snacks or special meals for the entire school. Cesar takes me to the lodging director. (The schooling is free, but the $351 charge is for the food and lodging. Mexico pays the teachers, but does not contribute to the school supplies, food or lodging).
At my translated request, he shakes his head no. I am puzzled and ask Cesar why the lodging director won't accept it. Ceasar asks and explains that the lodging director is requesting that we use it for gas
Woven blankets
. Gas? I ask. YES. The school has been without gas and winter is coming. They have no money to purchase gas for heating or cooking. I'm shaking my head yes! Put it towards the gas bill. The lodging director takes me to the small kitchen. Two men are using blow torches. One to heat water and one to cook tortillas.
My eyes are overflowing. This is so pathetic that these schools have so little money, and the children will not have hot food, baths or clean clothes. I am handed a tortilla and feel guilty eating it. Now the tears is streaming down my face.
Cesar gives me a look that says "get a grip." But I notice he is shaken by what we have just experienced. That $300 donation will go a long way to help this school.
We're headed to Lake Arareko. It's a large lake with a beaten path around the egde of the lake. Blue herons call this lake their home. On our next trip here, we will stay in one of the lake Chalets. More crafts are being sold by the Tarahumara.
Cesar is explaning the Tarahumara customs.
The Tarahumara (Raramuri, as they refer to themselves) is a culture unto themselves. Everything belongs to everyone, so private property does not exist. They also share food and housing. Korima is a Tarahumara word meaning "unconditional sharing" or "love." If someone doesn¹t have a blanket or corn, they give it as korima, as a gift. They expect the same in return.It is a way of life for these people.
Harmony with their environment and with each other is the basis of Raramuri culture
Wooden carvings and
. The system of korima assures the less fortunate of help in times of need. One aspect of this is their social gatherings where food and tesguino (maize beer) are served. Those who are able will provide a feast in exchange for community help with projects such as the construction of a cornhouse. These gatherings provide the opportunity for a nutritive meal in an honorable exchange. Many social commentaries focus on the alcoholism and ill-health of the Raramuri today but overlook their decreasing ability to adequately feed themselves. This is due to the continuing loss of their land as well as soil erosion and water pollution wrought by mining and logging interests. The more reclusive Raramuri are able to maintain their traditional way of life remain as healthy and robust as they were a century ago.
They believe not in good and evil but in a more basic concept of the world in which there is only that which is useful, and that which is not.
They first came to the attention of the outside world as long distance runners. Living in high altitudes and forced to depend on foot-power to move about their isolated tribal world, they have developed tremendous lung capacity. They hunt wild goats and deer by running them down, in some cases, running nonstop for three days.
They have run non-stop in relay teams from Chihuahua City to El Paso, Texas, a distance of 230 miles, to open the Pan-American Road Races. Thinking of including them on a Mexican Olympic Team, the recruiters were shocked to find that their cultural values do not permit them to "compete" against others
wildlife carvings
. Thus the concept of running to finish ahead of others is completely alien to them.Rarajipari are footraces. Usually 50 -100 mile barefoot runs between two teams during which they toss a baseball sized wooden ball (bola) with their foot.
These "foot throwing" races are relays where wooden balls are kicked by the runners and relayed to the next runner, while teammates run ahead to the next relay point.
Two teams consist of seven people on each side with a single ball.
A player lifts the ball onto the top of his foot and flips it as far as he can. The rest of the players run to it, with either team gaining possession. When the last player remains, the game is over.
This may take up to three days - and nights.. They play with lighted torches after dark, and their only food is tesguino, milled corn mixed with water to a drinkable consistency.
Runners from rival villages hold 24-hour, 90-mile races in flimsy sandals before the harvest, a feat that would test even the world's finest long-distance runners.
A truly remarkable thing about them is that their ancient religion has bred into them a moral code so strict that they cannot tell a lie. Psychologists, who have confirmed this, suggest that over the centuries, their value system has actually caused physiological changes in their brain that preclude speaking anything but the truth. Nor can they cheat or fail to aid a fellow tribesman. Thus in a race, if one Raramuri were to fall behind, others in that race would slow down to let the laggard catch up.
Nothing amoung the Tarahumara is measured by material possesions
Your transportation choice
. Status in the community is measured by common sense, by the number of times a person has given food to those who ask, by the number of granaries and livesotck, by the ability to produce food and to share it. These qualities define the Tarahumara success. Our bus is having a little problem, so we mill around, taking bets on how long the hike will be back to Creel. After a few minutes, the bus' hood is now back in place, we return to the hotel, but my thoughts stay with the school and the children.
Later we meet for coctails in the hotel's bar. Of course there is only one type of coctail in Mexico - margaritas. And they are always welcome. Sue and Tom are partners in RailsNW and join us at our table. She asks me about the school and I tell her about the problems with the lack of gas. She says we need to eat dinner with her and her son Tom tonight.
At the dinner table, Sue and Tom have my head spinning and my heart pumping. Tom says he will donate money to the school thru our tour guide Cesar. Sue is donating also. I ask if he would consider asking everyone on the tour if they would like to contribute money to the school.
He decides it would be best to send a letter to everyone after the tour requesting donations for the school. Many of the passengers may not have any additional cash on them. Then, to make my head spin totally around. Sue says we need to think further than getting gas brought in . We need to think solar. OH MY GOSH
Another walking
. I love this tour company. They are dedicated to the long term, and to improving the quality of life for those who live in the destinations that their tours visit.Cesar is called over to our table for his opinions on how to make this work. This is pure "putting your money where your mouth is". Sue alsois director of winery tour organization in Oregon. Her company is already "green" and she wants to take RailsNW green. I am so excited, I haven't even noticed what I ate, and the desert on my plate is gone. I want to jump up and hug them both. They promise to keep in touch with the progress.
Ok, the eyes are getting a little misty again. It's time to catch an early night in the cozy log "cabin." But my mind keeps wandering back to a perfect day. This is a town you need to spend at least two to three days if you are a hiker, or just want to hang out in spectacular scenery. Horseback rides are $18 US for a full day excursion. There are also overnight "pack-in" rides to remote canyon areas. Or hikes to waterfalls. You can even rent a pick up truck and pack the gang in.
Yep, this is a return destination for me. But the next trip will include to Batopilas. You have to overnight in Creel prior to taking the transfer down (it's a 5 hour 85 mile road of narrow winding curves. There are some small properties here. A 3-4 mile hike to the Lost Cathedrial is on my list.
