I'm out to prove there are Chihuahuas in Chihuahua
Trip Start
Aug 25, 2007
1
3
12
Trip End
Sep 03, 2007
Chihuahua,
Mexico
Tuesday, August 28, 2007
We're headed for the boarder, and were told yesterday that the timing to get across the boarder with the least amount of waiting is to be in line at the border crossing by 8am. The boarder crossing close at midnight. Only one crossing (the furthers away from downtown El Paso is open. Cesar has us on schedule. We're passing the Concordia Cemetery, which originally was the edge of El Paso town. Many of the Chinese are buried. He explained about the horrible treatment of the Chinese rail workers who escaped to Mexico, only to later be persecuted by the Mexicans.
Soon we are in line at the border where Manuel, our bus driver is hoping we get the "green button" instead of the red. Green means go straight thru, no luggage checks in customs
Crossing the Rio Grande
. Red means it's going to be a long process. We will unload our luggage, haul it into the customs office, wait while the custom agents check it, then haul it out to have Manuel reload the bus. We're signaled to get off the bus to fill out the immigration forms, passport must be ready. A second form of photo id may be requested at the border. We're in line to get the forms, and our drivers license are taken by the clerk. Fill in the info and go to another line to return the form. Our passports are stamped, and we get our drivers license back. Then outside to see if Manuel has the magic "green" thumb. YIPPIE it turned green.
Back in the bus and headed down the road. We're driving thru Juarez, a free trade zone. This was the first Mexican City to start assembly plants (maquiladoras). There are now over 300 plants in the Juarez area. The National minimum wage is most of Mexico is $5.25 per day. Yep, that's per day not per hour. The factories near the border pay $12 - $16 per day. Many of the jobs are dangerous, as the safety standards are not comparable to the US. Is it no wonder that so many Mexicans want to cross our border?
Cesar is a fountain of information. How many agave hearts are needed to make tequila? 5. Then they are re-used to make lower grades. The 4th grade down is the "Gold" tequila grade, a lower grade. Agave is not a cactus, but a lily. There is no worm in tequila, that is Mezcal which is not tequila. Hollywood came up with the salt on the hand, Mexicans don't waste the salt
Border crossing
. Only put a lime in a beer if it's in a metal can to cut the metallic taste. We're entering the Chihuahua Desert. The Miracle Church is on the right side on the hill. On Saturdays and Sundays many will start from Juarez at 5am and walk, crawl or walk barefoot or on their knees for twenty seven miles to this church. This is the pay back for for a miracle or prayer granted. This is the Native Indian tradition - if you want something you have to pay for it. Water trucks follow the procession. This is a flat hot desert. I have respect for anyone "giving back."
The area is similar to Texas and New Mexico. We're passing pecan orchards and hibiscus plants. An award winning environmental power plant is on our left. No discharge is noticeable. A few miles on our right is one of the most polluting power plants spewing thick black smoke across the valley.
This is a land of contrasts. A military checkpoint is now ahead. They are checking for drugs going north (Mexico's drug problem is out of control, which is why the army, not the police is now in charge of the drug arrests/shootings). Firearms are the problem coming south into the country. Soon we're passing the sand dunes on both sides of the highway. This was once part of the old Mexico ocean.
My stomach is rumbling and conveniently, a lunch stop in a few minutes is announced. We're stopping in Villa ahumoda - the only place to find water between Juarez and Chihuahua. This is also the place for Asadero cheese, a local delight we are told
El Fuerte at night
. Well get me off the bus and at a table and bring on the food.My wish was granted. Oscar's is right in front of us. It's a small restaurant - but big enough to hold 50 plus. The food is Mexican plus good old hamburgs for the gringos. Next door is their cheese store. MMMM good! The prices for a large round of chile cheese and a large round of Asadero, the local cheese is a whopping $8. This would last me two weeks at home. With no refrigeration, we have to pass, and since I had the "pout" look, Cesar politely informs me that we will stop here on the way back. Now I have the "you're my hero look."
The drive is now thru Pistachio trees on the right and Pecans on the left. The harvest isn't until October, so we see no action in the fields. Another border stop and the Sierra Madre Mountain rage is now in full site. Awesome. The shape, contour, height and coloring of the mountains are constantly changing. At time the mountains dominate the landscape.
We stop for a bathroom break and notice the Washington Monument down the road. Mexico built it in 1997 to honor the Battle of Sacramento after the US/Mexico non-war. The Mormon Battalion was sent here. On the right in the Sierra Madres is a huge land holding. The family owns not only the acreage, but lumber yards and even provides (at a considerable cost) buffalo shooting. We speed past some of the herd near the road, and I think "which one will be the next target".
Chihuahua is coming slowly into view
Rock sign
. And finally we are stopping at the Government Palace for a tour. The colorful murals of Aaron Piņa Mora in the courtyard of the building tell of Chihuahuas history. On the first floor, some paintings are graphic. The violence pours out of the artworks. The second floor is more landscapes and lifestyles. Miguel Hidalgo, father of Mexico's independence, was executed here. Across the street is a park and some impressive statues. Our next stop is the Cathedral. Oh my gosh. Everyone one knows that it's almost impossible to find one of those little Chihuahua dogs here. BUT I found them!! There all over the square. My camera finger just can't stop clicking, even though we're told to follow the group into the Cathedral. Cesar says we will have time when we leave the church for more photos.
OK, I grudgingly walk up the stairs to this ornate stone beauty. The Cathedral of Chihuahua, built in 1725, in the Spanish Baroque style is located in the Plaza de Armas. The alter has it's own story. Seems a bride wasn't happy with the original alter (which is now located on the right side of the church) A custom made ornate marble double alter was crafted in Europe and shipped to Mexico. Of course, this wasn't a quickie wedding for the couple, as it took a considerable time to make the elaborate alter and ship it across the ocean. She was the first bridezilla.
We admired the churches beautiful stone facade, and two twin one hundred and thirty one foot towers before running down the steps to photograph.... the variety of chihuahuas in the plaza. And there are MANY varieties. Of course, we have to get in the photos too! My favorite is my chihuahua "twin." Have camera will travel.
