Chilling Out in Malawi
Trip Start
Apr 01, 2008
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13
20
Trip End
Jul 24, 2009
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Chitimba,
Malawi
Sunday, May 25, 2008
Africa has been an eye opener in so many ways. To be honest, Zambia passed by in a blur as days were spent on the bus from sunrise to sunset interrupted only by 'toilet stops' where all reservations re forgotten as you try to find a somewhat private spot in the bush! As well as me making lots of noise to try and scare off any snakes or insect life! The country was relatively unscenic from what I saw, (although bearing in mind we stuck to the main routes) other than the Vic Falls microlight experience. Speaking of which, what an amazing experience, even though I'm afraid of flying and had to use all my willpower to focus on the spectacular sight rather than the gusting winds and plunging drop into the thunderous falls! Also managed to see elephants, giraffes, crocodiles, hippos, and buffalo from above.
The only real 'excitement' occurred at the Zambia-Malawi border where our sole Austrian passenger was denied entry to Malawi. Malawi does not usually require a visa for entry, but Austria was absent from the acceptable country list. However, under one of the many "Corruption Free Zone" zones, $50 and a Heat magazine (trashy gossip mag) ensured Richard's entry to the country and once at Lilongwe he then had to head to the embassy to again expediate the visa process through persuasive means.
Malawi is quite unlike Zimbabwe and Zambia.
Malawi School Kids
Much greener and perhaps friendlier. 20% of the country is made up of Lake Malawi and we camped along its shores for 5 nights. It is more like a beach than a lake, and at Chinchetche (spelling?), you could have been forgiven for mistaking you were in the Pacific with their crystal white sand and tropical climate.Experienced a village tour while at Chinchetche and while it may have been a bit staged, it was still enjoyable, especially the grins on the children's faces. Kids came running out of the school at the sight of tourists and begged for their photos to be taken and then appraised by themselves on the digital screens. This was a refreshing change from other African towns where people want money for their photos. We visited an orphanage which houses 54 orphans and some of them were gorgeous! About half were naturally inquisitive and curious of us, and the other half scared of white people. 15% of the Malawi population has AIDS and the average life expectancy is 40 years, with half the population under 15 years. It's a sobering thought when you realise that for every 9 locals you meet, 1 of them could have AIDS. It seems a taboo subject thought and other than a few signs, a blown up condom that village children were using as a ballloon (!), and some reading of an autobiography of a Botswana childhood, I have not seen many other indicators - again though, I appreciate I have only had a fly-by view of the country.
So Malawi has been a time for relaxing and reflecting. Camping life I have accustomed to quickly but does not necessarily mean I have a passion for it! 2 things I desperately wished I'd packed? A headtorch (as geeky as they look, they would be invaluable for the campsites without power!), and a pillow would have come in handy as the journeys are long and bumpy on crater-sized pot holded roads.
One orphan... I wanted to take her h
Oh and Western goods for trading - the craftsmen love to trade for things like pens, magazines, old clothing, moisturiser, shampoo etc. It makes me cringe when I think of all the stuff i chucked out in Sydney during the moving out process to ensure my pack was lighter. One time that my over-packing could have come in handy!The crafts consist mainly of paintings and wooden handiwork, impressive but much more expensive than Asia. This has taken me some time to adjust to, as the days of $50 all inclusive days are a thing of the past, and service is poor. I still remain a terrible bargainer, but this is compounded by my sympathy for the poverty here so I don't mind parting with a few extra dollars.
Had a memorable evening (for those who can remember) in Chitemba on a dress-up puch night. About $6 ensured poor quality but rather lethal puch, and $3 for costumes for another tour passenger. I was dressed beautifully in a pink nightie (which was surprisingly comfy) and other pink accessories, whereas my victim was subjected to a black lacy number which I know only this guy could pull off (complete lack of shame). Unsurprisingly all the guys were dressed in variations of womens clothing but had few qualms showing mid-driff or butt! A good but early night as no generator late at night. Only a slight headache the next day unlike some of the others who spent the entire day sleeping it off. But i guess what better place for relaxing. Very few members (myself not included) decided to do the 30 km 1 day hike to Livingstonia and back the next day. I think Laos provided enough trekking experience for the year!
Other than that it's off to Tanzania which promises more driving (groan, but very used to it), the history and beaches of Zanzibar and the Serengeti and Ngorogoro crater which I'm most excited about. Have had plenty of down time in Malawi so quite ready for a bit of sightseeing and activity.
And last note, the sunset and sunrises are unforgettable. A huge vivid and perfect globe sun rising over the water, and the moon rises have been no less impressive. Usually bright red until high in the crystal clear sky, undisturbed by light pollution, so you can see 1000s of stars. Maybe I'm over-romanticising things, but they are seriously perfect!
