Tailors and the unravelling of my willpower...
Trip Start
Apr 01, 2008
1
5
20
Trip End
Jul 24, 2009
Soooo we flew into Danang and I have got to admit I'm a huge cheerleader for flying (although I will grudgingly admit it is not really part of the 'backpacker experience'). But when you're trying to fit 3 countries in in 4 weeks, you have to compromise, and I'm willing to give up long, uncomfortable bus/train rides!
The hardest part of travelling is often the transit between airport/station and accomodation (when you have have limited sense of direction in a new place and no reservations anyway!)... in this case we had a bunch of locals jostling for you to employ their taxi services and then they usually drop you off at a hotel where they are paid commission... I know that may sound like no big deal, but can be frustrating being 'taken for a ride'. Literally. Anyway, we ended up with a driver in an ancient Corolla who spoke next-to-no-English,and was supposed to drop us off at China Beach (where the American GIs would spend their R&R) and Marble Mountains (some significance... can't remember what), which we paid extra for. Instead it was more like a 2 second stop, take a photo and go on. Ah well, at least I felt the water on my feet.
Anyway, I digress. Hoi An has been amazing and my favourite so far. Went straight to the tailors and I was in shopping heaven! There are about 500 tailors in Hoi An so it's a bit of a lottery to decide where to go and what to buy, but these people can basically replicate anything (real or from a photo), or can design on your instructions - unless things get lost in translation which I experienced! Our brief walk around turned into a whole afternoon of shopping, and I officially blew the budget. These girls are also fantastic sales people e.g.
Our hotel has free bikes, high nellies actually, so we have spent a bit of time biking around which has been so fun! Cars aren't allowed in the centre, so I feel safe enough with only scooters as hindrances (and my lack of cycling coordination) However, ended up at a particularly bad restaurant (which we went to because it had 'Paddy' in its name...) and had a horrifying experience where in the midst of slurping his soup, a lizard decided to fall from the ceiling, hit the bowl, and land in Paddy's lap. I'm not a big fan of creepy crawlies and squealed, and from then on could not enjoy my meal one bit, constantly fearful of other things falling from the sky.... I know, I know, I'm going to have to get over these things!
Went to My Son today which was rather overrated to be honest. I think Vietnam has some amazing history and relics but unfortunately there is a real lack of information being communicated, especially in English. Not one bit of signage for anything we saw today, so of course I had to resort to Lonely Planet. The temples date back to about 1200 BC but were largely distroyed by American bombing during the war - although interestingly, the president gave an official command to 'destroy the VC but avoid further bombing of the temple' after a French (?) professer wrote to him critiscising their careless destruction of the relics.
So, what of the results from the tailors?! Generally I'm happy (see bottom for more info). Funky coats, Paddy's suit is superb, and a few good tops. Feel like I've bombed on a dress, and the quality is of course no Marks and Spencer, but the prices are so reasonable and the experience is also a tonne of fun (and indecision for me!). They make alterations again to fit, so we will be scootering down tomorrow to hopefully see some improvements on a few pieces and a visit to the post office is now compulsory otherwise the rucksacks would be jampacked! Total purchases: 2 dresses, 1 shirt, 2 tops, 1 suit, 1 jacket, 2 coats, 1 shorts... and that's just for me!
Highlight of the day though would be our cooking class we did at Cafe 96. We were accompanied by a French guy and girl, and an American girl. It was very amusing and I thought I was very proficient in the 'kitchen' (open air, concrete, so wouldn't exactly call it a kitchen). Great food of spring rolls, green papaya salad (this was amazing) and barbequed fish in banana leaves. Don't ask me to repeat it at home though.
Off to Hanoi tomorrow afternoon and will be full on for next week or so with Halong Bay, Sapa, and then to Laos... phew!
FYI: for those travelling to Hoi An, I recommended 'Tailor Sum, 102 Tran Phu St' for suits (about $75), Nguyen Phuoc, 59 Tran Phu St' for tops and dresses, '19 Le Loi' for coats/jackets and 'Nit Tailorm, 42 Tran Phu St' for shirts (but not for much else as this is where I was cornered into my worst purchase!).
The hardest part of travelling is often the transit between airport/station and accomodation (when you have have limited sense of direction in a new place and no reservations anyway!)... in this case we had a bunch of locals jostling for you to employ their taxi services and then they usually drop you off at a hotel where they are paid commission... I know that may sound like no big deal, but can be frustrating being 'taken for a ride'. Literally. Anyway, we ended up with a driver in an ancient Corolla who spoke next-to-no-English,and was supposed to drop us off at China Beach (where the American GIs would spend their R&R) and Marble Mountains (some significance... can't remember what), which we paid extra for. Instead it was more like a 2 second stop, take a photo and go on. Ah well, at least I felt the water on my feet.
Anyway, I digress. Hoi An has been amazing and my favourite so far. Went straight to the tailors and I was in shopping heaven! There are about 500 tailors in Hoi An so it's a bit of a lottery to decide where to go and what to buy, but these people can basically replicate anything (real or from a photo), or can design on your instructions - unless things get lost in translation which I experienced! Our brief walk around turned into a whole afternoon of shopping, and I officially blew the budget. These girls are also fantastic sales people e.g.
China Beach
'you have small waist', 'great colour on you', 'oh so beautiful!'... we had a particularly memorable experience at one place where we served by 3 sisters who had an aptitude for 'playfulness'. I'll spare you the details but I didn't know whether to laugh or scream at the intimacy they employed on the both of us. It's usually best just to laugh!Our hotel has free bikes, high nellies actually, so we have spent a bit of time biking around which has been so fun! Cars aren't allowed in the centre, so I feel safe enough with only scooters as hindrances (and my lack of cycling coordination) However, ended up at a particularly bad restaurant (which we went to because it had 'Paddy' in its name...) and had a horrifying experience where in the midst of slurping his soup, a lizard decided to fall from the ceiling, hit the bowl, and land in Paddy's lap. I'm not a big fan of creepy crawlies and squealed, and from then on could not enjoy my meal one bit, constantly fearful of other things falling from the sky.... I know, I know, I'm going to have to get over these things!
Went to My Son today which was rather overrated to be honest. I think Vietnam has some amazing history and relics but unfortunately there is a real lack of information being communicated, especially in English. Not one bit of signage for anything we saw today, so of course I had to resort to Lonely Planet. The temples date back to about 1200 BC but were largely distroyed by American bombing during the war - although interestingly, the president gave an official command to 'destroy the VC but avoid further bombing of the temple' after a French (?) professer wrote to him critiscising their careless destruction of the relics.
Our taxi
Anyway, enough history for one day. It was also the hottest day so far and I was at my cranky best. We are loving seeing as much as possible, however it's also extremely tiring and we are constantly on the move. So, what of the results from the tailors?! Generally I'm happy (see bottom for more info). Funky coats, Paddy's suit is superb, and a few good tops. Feel like I've bombed on a dress, and the quality is of course no Marks and Spencer, but the prices are so reasonable and the experience is also a tonne of fun (and indecision for me!). They make alterations again to fit, so we will be scootering down tomorrow to hopefully see some improvements on a few pieces and a visit to the post office is now compulsory otherwise the rucksacks would be jampacked! Total purchases: 2 dresses, 1 shirt, 2 tops, 1 suit, 1 jacket, 2 coats, 1 shorts... and that's just for me!
Highlight of the day though would be our cooking class we did at Cafe 96. We were accompanied by a French guy and girl, and an American girl. It was very amusing and I thought I was very proficient in the 'kitchen' (open air, concrete, so wouldn't exactly call it a kitchen). Great food of spring rolls, green papaya salad (this was amazing) and barbequed fish in banana leaves. Don't ask me to repeat it at home though.
Off to Hanoi tomorrow afternoon and will be full on for next week or so with Halong Bay, Sapa, and then to Laos... phew!
FYI: for those travelling to Hoi An, I recommended 'Tailor Sum, 102 Tran Phu St' for suits (about $75), Nguyen Phuoc, 59 Tran Phu St' for tops and dresses, '19 Le Loi' for coats/jackets and 'Nit Tailorm, 42 Tran Phu St' for shirts (but not for much else as this is where I was cornered into my worst purchase!).
