Sweltering in Chitwan

  Sauraha, Nepal
Saturday, September 27, 2008

After a bus trip from Hell, we arrived in Chitwan National Park, hoping for the best. Nicky had warned us not to expect an African Safari so we went in broadminded. I think our one guide's description of antelope dung as buckshit pretty much sums up the experience.

We decided to stay just outside the park in an area called Sauraha as the accommodation looked much nicer and we were assured the activities would be the same from all locations. Unfortunately I don't think we got much further than the so-called buffer zone of the park. We understand that to mean an area between the park and where people can actually live. They are not allowed to grow produce in it, but can still harvest the natural flora for a few days a year. Money from the buffer zone goes towards conservation and back into the community.

After the Canoe Trip

Our first disappointment was the realisation that seeing a tiger was as likely as winning the lottery. Over the next few days we only got to spend about 3 hours inside what is the buffer zone, but did get to see a single horned-rhino mother

Rhino and Baby

with a four month old calf suckling in the dense jungle from on top of an asian elephant. We were hoping to spend time in the canoe on the river and a jungle walk, but as the package left quite late these needed to be shortened due to the unbelievable heat. 

Getting Wet!

We both feel very hypocritical as we loved the various elephant related activities - these included the breeding program where we got to play with a four month old calf, bathing and being sprayed on top of an elephant, and the safari walk on top through the dense jungle - however, the elephants looked resigned to their fate and are kept shackled when not working. They are truly beast of burden rather than free spirits. We had childlike wonder with being able to get right up to and ride these magnificent creatures. We even got to feel their guttural rumblings reverberating through our very core.

On the whole we have unforgettable memories of our experience but don't think we would go through our transport nightmares to and from Chitwan again. We have now had a first horse cart ride to the national highway (city backstreet), and flight where the pilots need to stop for lunch! All that for a 20 minute flight. We have come to the conclusion that no matter what transport you take, or how early / late you leave, inter town transport in Nepal requires an obligatory lunch break for the staff - and LOADS of patience as the traveler! An i-pod in those situations is indispensible.

Good Sundowners Required!