Beginning to see more of Moscow
Trip Start
Jun 01, 2006
1
10
48
Trip End
Jun 30, 2006
Moscow,
Russia
Thursday, June 15, 2006
Anyway. I then went to the Tretyakov State Gallery of Art to check out some 20th Century Russian paintings as well as a exhibit of some more popular works by Monet, Van Gogh, etc. Much of the Soviet Social Realist work was beautiful and loaded with great iconography from the era that made for a long interesting morning at the gallery (see one of my favorite pieces of the day in the photo gallery for this entry)
Tretyakov State Gallery
. Then I met with Natasha to get my train ticket situation figured out - we looked for some excursion to the Golden Ring cities unsuccessfully, and decided that it was best I just go on my already planned trip to Mt. Elbrus (8-day hike up to the 19k peak). At first I was very unsure about this mostly because it was all so rushed and I didnt feel prepared (or safe) to make the trek. But tomorrow I meet with Sergey to borrow his winter/ski coat and hiking pants to make sure I have the proper equipment (there is also stuff I rent when I get there). In the end it will work out best, since I have already paid 2000rubles to reserve the package. The only drawback was that getting the tickets there (I already had the return ticket from my previous reservation) were about three times as expensive this time ($100). In any case, it should be a nice trip all day and night (24 hours) in a really comfortable/nice train compartment with a great view. I actually have enjoyed taking the train, and even felt that the 9 hour trip to St. Pete was too short to enjoy the train and get a good night's rest. On the way home, I have a less luxurious train, and the trip is much longer as I make a detour through Ukraine (not sure what Sergey was thinking there since I can't get off to sight see) - its about 36 hours.
After getting the ticket situation all settled we took the Metro up to the VVT (All-Russia Exhibition Centre), or as it was know in Soviet times, Exhibition of Economic Achievements. Its quite a difficult site to explain here now, I will try to load some photos soon...but it is a large sort of park with ornate fountains, monuments, and buildings all meant to celebrate Space, Industry, and Collective Agriculture. When you walk in it is through a huge set of marble archways, atop which rests a large broze statue of two men victoriously carrying a bundle of wheat together. Surrounding the long center walkway with fountains are a whole slew of pavilions that are each different in design and architecture depending on the theme/region they represent. At then end of the whole park is the last pavilion (#32) that is very run-down, but the most beautiful with a large dome structure. In front of this there are two passenger airplanes, and most impressively, a fullscale "Vostok" rocket - the same kind that took Yuri Gagarin into orbit as the first human in space. From just about anywhere in the park you can see the famous TV Tower (Telibashnya) that stands 540m high - it was constructed in 1967 and is still the tallest freestanding structure in Europe. It is most remembered internationally for a 1993 attack by 20 rebels that was harshly contained - so much so that about 65 people died in the counter-strike attempt. I suggested that we take the 75m high ferris wheel - which allowed me to take a few striking aerial shots of the park, the TV Tower, and another rocket monument nearby in front of the Space Museum.
After having some russian treat that tastes just like funnel-cake (but is shaped like mini-donuts) and some tea - we took the long metro ride home to Natasha's parent's house. She has a brother about my age, Eugene, who sells insurance - and is eager each night to practice his English with me. It is great staying here (not only for the central location-it is only a two min walk to the metro) as it is my first real "family" experience. Seeing them interact with one another in everyday activities and conversations puts a whole new spin on things. At times the Russian language can seem quite intimidating and forceful (see my entry at Moscow airport), but seeing it in such a personal, intimate setting takes away all this fear. Its actually quite an interesting language to observe, and in the end they interact, laugh, and bicker just like any other family anywhere - something easily noticed despite not comprehending the words. Its nice though how much they do talk to one another, sitting around tea and a late snack - always for atleast an hour if not more. Natasha's mother is absolutely wonderful (her Dad is away on business), very concerned with my well-being, and I have eaten more here in two days (upon her insistence) than perhaps in a whole week before now. I walk very, very far everyday and for many hours - so I'm certain I've lost nearly 10 pounds by the exercise. Now this will fatten me back up a bit before I probably lose even more hiking Elbrus. I'm also sporting my best beard ever - which isn't saying much - I haven't shaved since I was in South Carolina with Bridget's family (not quite four weeks ago). It is pretty patchy and scraggly, but I'm glad I have it - it seems to help me blend in here as many people tell me I look Russian (when I am not smiling of course, which isn't very often). So I had considered shaving yesterday, but when I realized I was still going to Elbrus - its staying for the long haul.
Tomorrow I am going to the Pushkin Art Museum, walking Moscow's historic "Boulevard Ring", and then going for dinner and drinks with Natasha's cousin-in-law Eugene (this is the second time...last time I stayed at his place with he and his wife and we stayed up til 4am talking about politics and US/Russian relations). He speaks very good english and has been to the US a few times. The following morning I leave for Mt. Elbrus at 8:30am...so I will be away from internet from then on. I hope to make one more entry before I go, but if not - I'll return on June 26th for a final four days in Moscow.
Hope all of your are doing very well.
Best,
Spencer
Comments
Hello oh bearded man!!!
Spencer,
I just now had time to get updated with my reading....I find it fascinating to say the least, and it makes me yearn for 2 things: tea, and vodka, and not necessarily in that order! Ha ha! I enjoy hearing all the many details of your trip and am trying very hard to visualize you there....you seem SO far away! GOOD luck on your hike; you worry me! But, like you said, we need to stop worrying, and start treasuring life more, in ALL the ways you mentioned!! Be safe, have to run! Miss you! Michelle :)
Pseudo Russian
Hi Spence,
Finally have read all the entries you have made (I figured it out myself!). It sounds as though you're having quite an excursion. Maybe before you return, you should shave....just for going through security. If you're too scruffy, they may consider you a threat!! Just a thought.
Hope you enjoy Mr Elbrus. Looking forward to seeing all your photos when you return. I'm sure you'e enjoying the tea, since you are not a stranger to it. Do they drink it with milk and sugar?
Have fun. Love you, Mom