Arrival in Russia

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  Moscow, Russia
Thursday, June 1, 2006

Hello all...I finally made it to Russia. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to gain access to the internet until now, a week into my stay here. My time is short, so I will not be able to make a full on entry right now, but I hope to add more later. However, I must warn, the idea of updating this frequently and with fotos has quickly become a pipedream. My first day in Russia was one of bittersweetness. In line at the passport check there was an American right in front of me (wife Russian), which was comforting to know (so there must be many Americans here - and people must speak English around moscow) (also the landscape reminded me of Kansas - very flat and tons of trees). When it came my turn to go through passport check my thoughts were quickly put in check by a quite stern looking woman asking for something in Russian that I didn't understand. I pulled out a document trying to play it cool and act as though I knew what she wanted, but I was wrong. She asked again louder (looking frustrated) trying to make her voice carry through the thick glass which only had a small two inch gap at the very bottom of the window. I leaned and in said "izvenitye, vy gavaritye pa-anglisky?" (sorry, but do you speak english?). To no effect. She began yelling quite loudly and looking around with disbelief that I didn't understand. Finally, the agent next to her said "boarding pass"...clearing up the whole matter.

By this time, as you can imagine, I was sweating profusely as my heart pounded with fervor. I filled out a customs declaration card and went to the "green line" (nothing to declare)some people were having there bags scanned, and there was a bottleneck of people flowing into this area. A woman behind me pushed through ("izvenitye") - I followed her with speed...we both walked right through customs without a word...thank goodness that went ok.

I anxiously scanned the crowd of taxi drivers and other people looking for my friend Sergey who was planned to meet me. Suddenly an arm went around my shoulder from behind and the voice said "hey man, are you happy to be in Russia?" - it was Sergey - Relief.

We took the bus to the train, and the train to Elektrostal (east of Moscow 1.5 hours) where I would be living with his father in his flat. After getting off the train, we jumped a ride (essentially its hitchhiking - except you pay random drivers just coming down the road) in to Sergey's father's place. Picture Chicago's Cabrini Green housing complex multiplied by five and you've got the equivalent of this neighborhood. We got inside the building and caught an elevator that was about 3x3 feet with only a very, very dim light behind a grate in the ceiling to illuminate the space. I look at Sergey - thoughts of Marlon BRando in "The Godfather".

Alexander Nickoliavich (his father) greeted us quite congenially at the door with a big smile and an open hand. I greeted him formally in russian and he seemed to shy away with modesty - telling me to call him Alex or Sasha (an informal version - like bob for robert). I was advised to remove my shoes and choose from a pair of old worn out slippers to wear about the apt. We sat he poured some form of alcoholic drink (not vodka) in small little shot glasses that looked like those little egg-holders we have in the states. They made a short celebratory speech together and we guzzled it down. Then we had tea and cookies (they love tea here...I think perhaps more than in England...I haven't gone a day without three cups of tea). THinking I was hungry (I was constipated), Alex fixed me some bread with melted cheese and an egg. After finally getting up the courage he began speaking with me in broken english (he's been learning over the last five years - but with no verbal practice...the common struggle we all have). After a short tour of the small apt (2beds, bath, toilet, kitchen, and living room), some bits shockingly unsanitary (toilet) while others quite decent, we sat again for another cup of tea in the kitchen. Alex ducked away while Sergey and I discussed our plans for the next day. Moments later, Alex walked into the kitchen wearing a black "Beatles" t-shirt and carrying a guitar...intrigue. He sat down and without saying a work broke into a wonderful version of Frank Sinatra's "My Way". His imperfect english, thick accent, and mediocre guitar skills are beyond charming --- I am suddenly moved. At this point I see my first glimpse of what Russia could possible behold for me in the next month -

Now I'm sitting in St. Petersburg after an all night train trip (arrival 5:30am - you do a lot of waiting in Russia) with a feeling of excitement, exhaustion and joy. Keep reading...there is much more to come...I haven't even gotten to day two in Moscow. HOpe you are are all well...

Spencer
St. Pete, Russia 9:45am
CafeMax

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