My dream of 20 years
Trip Start
Jun 26, 2008
1
15
101
Trip End
Jun 2009
Juma Lake,
State of Amazonas,
Brazil
Saturday, September 6, 2008
We were taken from the hotel to the port in a old Volksie minibus. They are everywhere in Manaus, every tour operator seems to have one, but in contrast to those in surf towns are all painted white! First we had to cross the river for another land transfer. We passed the "Meeting of the Waters" where the Rio Negro and the Rio Solimones flow side by side and do not meet. Here we saw our first freshwater dolphins, as they like this area because fish school between the two rivers. Into another Volksie and past a lot of deforested areas (farms etc) to the boat which took us to the lodge. This trip was via channels and then downriver and there was a profusion of birds.
After lunch,a swim and rest time we headed out for more bird watching and piranha fishing
Busy Harbor - Manaus
. The bird spotting was more successful for us than the fishing. I was the last person in the boat to nab one and Kings only managed one of the ugliest piranhas that there is. Alan and the Argentinian boys were the most successful. After a beautiful sunset on the lake we headed out to catch a Cayman. They use torches to spot their eyes and then the guide gets hold of one to show it to you. Alan nabbed a small one (to my relief) and gave us lots information on him before letting him go in the river. Then the fun started.... I was ill all night and had to send Kingsley on the dawn birding trip without me. I was determined that I was not going to remain ill and ruin my dream but had to miss the jungle walk too!! Poor Kingsley stayed behind to feel helpless and we were really glad that the lodge was in a nice spot where there were lots of birds and views and we could relax. I rallied myself for a night in the jungle. I had missed some of Alan's info so awoke at 5 the next morning wondering if it was possible to have arctic-style winds in the jungle. Only at breakfast did I discover that it was not an Amazonian yeti but howler monkeys. Amazing sound!
We visited a local family and saw how they live and make the manioc flour. The youngest boy was playing with a baby tarantula and Kingsley even managed to get close enough to take a look. Feeling better, having managed lunch and having been bitten by numerous mosquitos; I decided that I should take another malaria tablet
Meeting of the waters
. We then set off for an afternoon canoe trip. We had a wonderful time. We saw two sloths. The first was climbing (quickly I must note) but up into the canopy after some food) and the second with baby in tow was in plain site and looked down at us with wise old eyes. We also saw squirrel monkeys and brown capped capuchin monkeys. Just after the second sighting of a sloth I started feeling rather ill again. Must be the malaria tabs!! Skipped another dinner.... Next morning we went to visit another local family. The patriarch is 84 and has rubber trees on his land. He used to make gumboots for all the locals but it requires a lot of effort so he makes simpler things to demonstrate to visitors- condoms. It was fascinating to see the rubber trees and see the process still alive. Then it was time to head back to Manaus. Despite missing the jungle walk we had had a fabulous time. The bird life was incredible. There were dolphins in the river in front of the lodge every day (pink and grey). The setting was beautiful and peaceful and the sloth was more than we had even wished for! Singing along to Brazilian songs in the back of a rickety station wagon on a bumpy road just sealed the Brazilain flavour and was the perfect end to a lovely trip.
